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ANTIQUE FURNITURE RESTORATION DISCUSSION BOARD
Posted By: Greg Scholl <beatkat@adelphia.net> (ct-waterbury1b-56.wtrbct.adelphia.net)
In Response To: Re: Advice on top coat/comment on poly (Mike Hartley)
Date: 10/20/4 23:36
Hi Mike,i think thats a fallacy in regards to patina on any finish. Patina is grime, oils and dirt from handling, dents, nicks, scratches, rubs, oxidation,etc., which happens to any coating over time. But I suppose a polyurethane resists all that stuff very well, which would make it "patinate" slower. As far as the difference between shellac and a varnish, is that for a novice, varnishes as a rule set up slower, flow out better, and generaly are easier to apply, be it brushing or wiping on,(oil finishes and "wipe on" products even easier) and shellac takes a bit of skill to apply evenly because it "flashes", or drys to a tack faster, and has a tendency to lap mark and dribble, meaning you must be quick and thorough with your application method, be it brush, spray or padding, keep a wet edge and flow it on very evenly. Varnishes can be brushed alot more during application, in fact you "tip off" the entire surface as a last step as a general rule.A plus side of shellacs being that one can apply several coats in a day, and generally it repairs easier than poly's, poly-varnishes,tung oil varnishes, oil finishes, etc. I've read people posting that a waxed shellac finish will be as durable as a waxed varnished surface...I'd bet on the varnish if it were a contest, without a doubt.I have restored/refinished a lot of failed shellac finishes...but to be fair I do alot of antiques..so I see it a lot.
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