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ANTIQUE FURNITURE RESTORATION DISCUSSION BOARD
Posted By: Bob Klein <bobklein1@cox.net> (ip68-1-111-93.pn.at.cox.net)
In Response To: Re: 1920's walnut dining table (James Schooley)
Date: 2/25/5 22:09
In addition to the fine recommendations already made I have to comment on the Old English (and other brands) of lemon, orange, cedar etc oils. The majority of these are merely mineral oil with scent added. Mineral oil never dries, and wood isn't dry or thristy, wood will seek the same moisture content as the atmosphere it is in. Doesn't it look great when you first put it on, if there is a finish on the wood then it isn't going anywhere, it will just stay shiney until it is dust laden or wiped off with daily wiping. Ever wonder why it leaves finger marks at first? If you have to use an oil then use one that will dry. I personally like paste wax.
I think everyone will agree that if a novice attempts to help then please, buy a good, silicone free, brand of furniture paste wax and use that. There are many colors available but to simplify things--use light on light wood and dark on dark wood. Who ever you have refinish the piece in the future will thank you for it.
As to the silicone contamination on many of the things we have to refinish and restore--its a problem for sure. Shellac, as already stated in a post, is the best washcoat or sealer to use to block out a potential problem. When stripping, repeated wiping and cleaning the stripped surface with denatured alcohol and clean rags is a good bet, but no matter what we do, and again, I am sure others will agree, the silicone contamination will rear its ugly head at times when you think it is done messing with ya...even sometimes when you think you will have a problem with contamination (the dreaded fish eye crater) it will fool you and not cause you a heartache. Sorry to ramble....
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