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ANTIQUE FURNITURE RESTORATION DISCUSSION BOARD
Posted By: James Schooley <furnitureissues@earthlink.net> (0-2pool241-145.nas2.sioux-city1.ia.us.da.qwest.net)
In Response To: Snding spindle legs and routered edges (Jay Brunson)
Date: 10/1/4 00:39
Sometimes we try so hard to get back to the bare wood, we make ourselves ill from the effort required to get even color between the easier parts and the hardest surfces to sand. I have learned to accept that some furniture may need to go back to the original stain. Start with a few good oxalic acid bleachings, then a couple trys at chlorine bleach, and then cut your losses and restain to a happy medium. When there is no other choice, I do as you have and break the piece down, sanding and scraping each surface to the original wood, and reglue befor staining as the glue will be stronger and the crevaces need to be darker any way. As for the turnings, I will put the parts back on the lathe and sand back to fresh wood at a slow speed. Avoid too coarse a sand paper, and don't worry about trying to sand along the grain with a turning. Some parts won't safely return and a special block may be needed to grasp the part safely. A drill press can be used here as well to turn. Cut off a lag screw and put it in the chuck for this method. Look for a flap sander that can fit in your drill, this can make this extreme sanding possible while the turnings are still in place. Lastly find a good sharp knife with a short stout blade and scrape out the deep crevaces, then press a green 3M pad into the groove and twist the turning to sand out, followed by a fine sanding sponge pad, when no lathe is avaible.
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