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ANTIQUE FURNITURE RESTORATION DISCUSSION BOARD
Posted By: E. Daniel Ayres <eayres@comcast.net> (bgp01138181bgs.ypwest01.mi.comcast.net)
In Response To: Re: Restoring 1939 oak flooring issues (James Schooley)
Date: 6/22/4 21:06
Good grief, you are telling me to go back to the shellac which I've been working so hard to remove. The floor has a number of fairly badly stained areas under the current shellac, and a first pass with lots of denatured alcohol, rubbed with steel wool and rags, has gotten the floor almost clean enough to sand. This floor is BIG 18' by 14' 2" plus two 30+ sq ft closets.
I figure I'm going to have to work hard to get enough of the shellac off the floor to insure that I get a reasonably consistent stain. I was planning to use one of those big 1' by 1.5' heavy flat orbital sanders once I got most of the shellac off to open things back up, and knock down any filled areas, etc. My first "test" sanding did not go well, too much shellac remains. It balls up on the sandpaper almost instantly. I'm planning to take a second pass over the floor with dentatured alcohol and rags to see if I can take up some more of the shellac. The shellac on this floor was thick!
Does anyone have any experience with Minwax's "Polycrillic (sp?)" water based satin finish? It has the advantage of being less "toxic" than most of the Polyurithane finishes. Their "Golden Oak" oil based wiping stain looks like it will be fairly forgiving in situations where I could not get old shellac out from between boards, etc. The tint will be close to the original shellac coloration. The sealer is neutral and looks good on the test sample.
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