ANTIQUE FURNITURE RESTORATION
DISCUSSION ARCHIVE II
finishing a chest of drawersFrom: Oliver Hager When finishing a chest of drawers, if one puts clear finsih on the top and outsides, do you apply on the bottom sides where one one touch only if you picked it up tp move. Also how much of the inside beneath & behind the drawers is it necessary to finish. I plan to use Miniwax fast drying Polyurethane, clear Semi-gloss. Thankyou for your answer. Oliver Hager Re: finishing a chest of drawersFrom: Jim Antique Works What kind of chest of drawers is it? If it is an antique please do not put poly on it. You will ruin value of piece and make it very difficult if not impossible to reverse. Insides of casework are not normally finished, but insides of drawers should be. Re: finishing a chest of drawersFrom: Dave Macfee I think its important for a finish to "wrap around" the edges in appropriate wear areas, such as at the base of the piece, underneath edge of the top, dividing stiles between drawers on the case. If you finish only to the showing edges, the finish will have more tendency to peel from that edge. Where an edge is subjected to any wear or abuse, this is a strong likelihood. I agree with Jim's comments on finishing inside case work. I like to finish drawer interiors too, but I see a lot of them that aren't. I've used the Minwax poly and I think it is a good finish. It wouldn't be my choice for a restoration project, but otherwise, I think it can make a fine finish for you. Re: finishing a chest of drawersFrom: wisshack@misslink.net Insides of drawers that were not finished originally should never have any kind of finish applied to the. The dry, matrure appearance of the linings of truly old drawers and other carcass work is a valuable sign of age. If you apply finish to previously unfinished areas of antique furniture you are glorifying it and tampering with its value. If you had an 18th century Queen Anne walnut English chest with original oak- lining to the drawers, you could actually ruin its value by applying finish. I suggest you be careful about the advise you give others. Tom Wisshack Museum Quality Restoration of Antique Furniture Galesburg IL 61401 filling the grainFrom: Carole What is the most efficient way to fill the grain in mahogany or walnut? I am familiar with paste wood filler but would like to find another method. The finish will be sprayed lacquer. Re: filling the grainFrom: Jim Antique Works M. L. Campbel makes a catalyzed clear filler which can be sprayed. You can also get a paste filler that can be sprayed or make your own by thinning regular paste filler to spray consistency. Re: filling the grainFrom: Jeff Jewitt ML Cambells marketing of this stuff as a filler is incorrect. It is merely a sanding sealer for AC lacquers. They replaced the normal stearates with talc. It WILL NOT fill the pores without shrinking in a couple of months The most efficient and time honored method IMHO is oil paste wood filler -- forget the Behlen stuff and get ML Campbells -- you'll have to thin it and its only available in neutral but it can be topcoated in 4 - 8 hours. Highly recommended. Jeff Jewitt Brass Screws and Tarnish...From: Larry I recently began refinishing an old tool chest my grandfather made in 1910. It's going to be a beautiful piece. Problem: There are over 200 round head brass screws on this thing. Most are salvageable, and will be reused. They are black with tarnish, but clean up easily once they are removed. However, I am afraid that they will retarnish in a short period of time... Any suggestions for coating the screw heads with something that will not let them tarnish? Thanks!! Re: Brass Screws and Tarnish...From: James Lacquer is what I use. The hardware stores carry it. If you only find it in a spray can just spray a little into a bottle cap and use a small brush to apply the lacquer HINGESFrom: daffyaduck@webtv.net I am in the process of refinishing a large pine ice box with double doors. I only have one set of brass hinges I need another set or where I can purchase 2 sets . daffyaduck@webtv.net thank you Re: HINGESFrom: Jame This company sales ice box hardware. http://www.kennedyhardware.com/ Re: HINGESFrom: Jeff Jewitt Obviously -- these aren't hardware store type items. Try Van Dyke Restoreres 800-558-1234 Jeff Haywood - Wakefield furnitureFrom: lmaclay@bellatlantic.net I have a table and loveseat that originally had a light blond finish. The table has a stamp on the bottom from Haywood-Wakefield. Both have been refinished. I would like to get more information on this company and see if these pieces are of any value after being refinished. Thank you Re: Haywood - Wakefield furnitureFrom: Jeff Jewitt These pieces are from the 40's or 50's and I doubt ther are collectible pieces. However, only a professional appraiser could tell you for sure. Normally pieces like this have to be very collectible to suffer devaluation from refinishing. Jeff Re: Haywood - Wakefield furnitureFrom: Frank Heywood-Wakefield furniture IS collectible. There is a book out with many good pics, very interesting history of the company and price guide. Pub. by Collector Books, P>O> Box 3009, Padukah, KY 42002-3009, authors Steve Rouland & Roger Rouland. There is even some info on the blonde and "champagne" finish techniques they are known for. The stain should have been duplicated well for the refinishing to be good. Values exceed used furniture of the same period but some of the more unusual and sought after pieces can be expensive. There are dealers that carry this and can guide you further on prices and rarity. Check with any modern (30's-60's) collectible furniture dealer for references. Atwater-Kent Radio RestorationFrom: John Weiss I'm restoring a 1928 Atwater-Kent console radio. It has several deep scratches down to the wood and mares to the finish. I do not want to refinish because much of it is glazed for accenting. I think the finish is dark-tinted varnish, but not sure. How can I best restore the existing finish? Re: Atwater-Kent Radio RestorationFrom: Jeff Jewitt Without stripping, your best bet is to use an artists brush and shellac with dry pigments to replace the color then use shellac to fill the scratches. If the scratches are deep - try using pigmented wax sticks the color of the wood to fill them. Jeff Refinishing mahogony countertopsFrom: Mark J. Herold I am refinishing mahogony countertops in a kitchen. Any hints on products to use. What steps should I taken. Are poly products safe for food contact? Re: Refinishing mahogony countertopsFrom: Jeff Jewitt Any finish --once cured can be considered safe for food contact and the poly will give you the most durability. However - it will not stand up to slicing, chopping, etc. Its best to use a simple mineral or vegetable oil or like me -- nothing at all Jeff Re: Refinishing mahogony countertopsFrom: Jim Antique Works Do not put vegetable oil on counter tops or cutting board. It can spoil and contaminate food. If you are going to oil tops use only mineral oil. I think it would be best to seal counters with a varnish. Any coating you put on them will have to be periodically renewed and poly's must be stripped. Varnish can be lightly sanded and recoated when it needs it. Pine Bedroom FurnitureFrom: Penny Can paint be applied directly to a finished wood? I have a pine bedroom suite which has lots of curves, etc. and do not have the time to strip and refinish. Re: Pine Bedroom FurnitureFrom: Jeff Jewitt You can-- as long as the finish is clean and scuff sanded to aid adhesion. Clean the finish really well with TSP. Then sand it with 180. Then apply a barrier coat of white pigmented shellac, known as Kilz of Bin. Then on with your paint Jeff walnut rockerFrom: Garry Remote Name: 206.153.79.122 I am trying to match a replacement rung of walnut to look like the rest of the rocker which is a butterscotch color? Re: walnut rockerFrom: Jeff Jewitt Assuming the new replacement is the greyish color typical ofr kiln dried walnut, I use a caramel colored dye stain followed by several coats of orange shellac Jeff BAR TOP SEPERATION IN CAVIUNA WOOD STRIPSFrom: WALLACE BERG LACK OF HUMIDITY IN NEW BUILDING HAS CAUSED BAR TOP SEPERATION IN CAVIUNA WOOD STRIPS. (3/4 X 3/4 RANDOM LENGTH TO 6 FT)STRIPS GLUED 3 SIDES WITH 3/4 PW AS BASE. SURFACE WAS FINISHED WITH 8 COATS WATER BASED POLY. QUESTION: WHAT TO DO ABOUT REPAIRS TO CRACKS?? Re: BAR TOP SEPERATION IN CAVIUNA WOOD STRIPSFrom: Jeff Jewitt Your problem is more serious than you think. You have a situation where you have glued pieces of solid wood (whose shrinkage/expansion ratio is probably high glued to a stable (non-moving) base. This is similar to a cross-grain construction. Even though you repair the damage, you will no doubt see more problems later. Jeff barn woodFrom: anjo what can I use other than acid to change the patina of fresh cuts in old barn wood to match the uncut portion of the wood Re: barnwoodFrom: Jeff Jewitt I've heard good results reported from users of a product called Old Growth. Its avialable thru Woodcraft @ 800-225-1153 Jeff Leather restorationFrom: Norm I have a table with a leather top that needs restoring or replacing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Norm norm@cqg.com Re: Leather restorationFrom: Jim Antique Works Replacement leather is available from Richmond Desk Leather 9411 Derbyshire Rd.,Richmond Va.23229 Phone: 804.741.1680. You don't say what is wrong with exusting leather minor damage can be dyed to match and coated with lacuer and polished to match existing sheen. It's not perfect but will greatly improve looks. mildewFrom: ace How do I get mildew and the odor off furniture? Re: mildewFrom: Jim Antique Works Use a 50/50 solution of water and household bleach. wipe it on pay attention to the corners and close places do the insides and under tops too. Rinse w/ clear water and dry. You may have to do this more than once to kill all the mildew. Restoring 2 PiecesFrom: Mickey I recently purchased two pieces. The pine hutch has had a combination of burning and stripping to remove the old paint. What is the best method to complete the job and finish the wood? The second piece is a chest with red paint on the sides, back and top, but dark brown paint on the front. How should I clean up the front - I can't tell whether there is red paint on the front at this point. The original brass hardware is intact. Maybe I should clean it (how?) and leave it. The piece appears to be mid-1800's so I would like to preserve as much as possible. Thanks. Re: Restoring 2 PiecesFrom: Jeff Jewitt If you go to the articles section - read the article on Saving the Finish for a tutorial on how to clean furniture. As for the burned and partially stripped wood, it depends on what you're going to do. I'd strip the rest of the paint off with a marine stripper or stripper labelled for paint. Then I'd decide if the piece is worth spending all the time it will take to sand past the burned areas (alot!!) You may want to just re-paint it Jeff Double-leaf Dining room table slidesFrom: cmciii@aol.com I have a double-leaf Dining room table that has wooden slides that are worn out. When you open it all the way it bends in the middle. Is there a place where I might be able to order a generic set of either wood or metal slides to repair this table Re: Double-leaf Dining room table slidesFrom: Jim Antique Works WSI Disttributors 800.447.9974 lists two sizes one will take 3 12inch leaves and the other will take 5. Antique oak mantel/overmantelFrom: plarsen@www.vermillion.k12.sd.us I have an antique oak fireplace mantel with mirrorered overmantel. It is in basically good shape, however there are a few scratches on the lower part and the shelf part of the mantel is down to pretty much bare wood (looks like it could have had some other material on it that was removed). What is the best way to restore this piece. I hate to have to strip the whole thing - I was really wanting to do something a little gentler. I am pretty much a novice, have done some refinishing but not alot. I love this piece and don't want to ruin it. Any suggestions? Re: Antique oak mantel/overmantelFrom: Jeff Jewitt If you access the articles part of this website - you will find an article called "saving The Finish". You will find all sorts or info for The project at hand. Jeff Re: Antique oak mantel/overmantelFrom: Jim Antique Works You say "looks something could have been removed" It may have been veneered originally look carefully at the bottom af the shelf and see if there is a thin line/joint running the length of the shelf it should be less than 1/8th inch thick. Many mantles were veneered. If it has been removed it should be replaced to prevent warping. The original finish is most likely varnish and can be replaced by cleaning thoroughly and scuff sanding any remaining finish taking care to feather any chips then recoat with 2 or 3 coats of top grade varnish Re: Antique oak mantel/overmantelFrom: plarsen Thanks for your help re: the mantel. I checked and there is no line indicating possibility of veneer so I think I am safe there. I have a couple of other questions... You say clean thoroughly - what product do you recommend for that? Also, what should I do with the parts that are close to bare wood? Clean and try to match stain and then varnish? I don't want to sand, right? (since that will potentially damage the patina of the wood?) Any reply would be appreciated. Stickley library tableFrom: Harold Sweeny During renovation of our church a G. Stickley library was found in storage with "Heavy" boxes stored on top. top is bowd about 5/8" to 3/4". rear bard is mising. No problem to replace it. Finish is scarred & scratched. Should it be stripped or scraped after the bow is removed? How can I match the original finish? I have the formulas but the older terms are not easy to update. Thanks HS , retired boatwright Re: Stickley library tableFrom: Jim Antique Works Please do not touch finish on table you could devalue it by as much as 90% Find a good restorer in your area and get their advice, if they advise stripping they are not a good restorer. Keep looking until you find someone who is willing to restore the original finish. Any repairs to the table should be documented. Re: Stickley library tableFrom: Harold Sweeny Thanks Jim. The main concern is undoing the bow in the top. The missing board may/may not be replaced. It can be cleaned of dirt & dust with a damp cloth. There is no intention of destroying it's value, instead it will be placed in the Church library & used by the Library staff for displayiny recent acquisitions. Re: Stickley library tableFrom: Jim Antique Works jac111@new-vista1.com Harold removing bow from table top may or may not be an easy job. If the table is bowed from load the wood cells will be compressed and may never recover. If it is moisture imbalance putting table upside dow in strong sunlite may cure it. Good luck. Where to find drop leaf table hinges?From: Ed Wood I have a circa 1830 drop leaf table, restored but for the hinges. The original were hidden. Where can I find replacements? Re: Where to find drop leaf table hinges?From: Jim Antique Works WSI Distributors 800.447.9974 lists them in their catalogue. They are open m-f 8:30-5:00 central time Marquetry supplysFrom: Michael Thompson Need to know a good source of marquetry supplys - other than Van Dykes. Re: Marquetry supplysFrom: James Constantine 1-800-223-8087 Wedgewood Gas StoveFrom: adeptmed@aol.com Would like to find a company to restore my wedgewood gas/wood stove Re: Wedgewood Gas StoveFrom: Jim Antique Works There is one in Oakland Ca. I don't remember name but they are in the phone book if they are still in business.
Re: Wedgewood Gas StoveFrom: Jim Antique Works Go web page <antiquestoves.com> They offer listings for many items on ant. stoves. Merry Christmas VeneerFrom: Keri I am currently restoring an antique hutch that is covered in veneer. The veneer had cracked in one spot. I applied a hot iron to a wet towel on the blemished portion of the piece. The problem is that the iron has turned the already stripped and sanded veneer a darker color. Is this problem fixable? Re: VeneerFrom: Jeff Jewitt It sounds like a tannate stain. Try wiping a solution of oxalic acid crystals dissolved in water over the stain (do the whole area) wait overnight and the stain should be gone Jeff Refinishing Mahogany dining setFrom: Kathy West I have an antique mahogany dining set that needs refinishing. Someone told me it was not possible to just sand and refinish it, as the wood needs to be treated. I think what I need to do is apply a french polish prior to applying any varnish. Is this true? Please send some advice on the best thing to do to make this project successful. Thank you. Refinishing Mahogany dining setFrom: Kathy West I have an antique mahogany dining set that needs refinishing. Someone told me it was not possible to just sand and refinish it, as the wood needs to be treated. I think what I need to do is apply a french polish prior to applying any varnish. Is this true? Please send some advice on the best thing to do to make this project successful. Thank you. Re: Refinishing Mahogany dining setFrom: James How old is the mahogany dining set? What kind of usage does it get? I mean do have six playing dominoes on it often? Re: Refinishing Mahogany dining setFrom: Rick Bertrand Get some paint and varnish remover from your local hardware or walmart store. follow the directions on the can for removing the finish. after the finish has been removed wash the surface using acetone or lacquer thinner. then sand the surface smooth using 220 grit sandpaper, remove all sanding dust with a paint brush and vacuum cleaner. then apply a coat of stain if you choose to, let dry 24 hours and apply a polyurethane or lacquer. follow the directions on all containers. hinges for a large antique ice boxFrom: daffyaduck@webtv.net I am looking for hinges for a ice box. the hinges are 5 to 6 inches in length, they are offset a half inche. the hinge comes to a point at one end and at the other it curls like a W. The end with the point attaches to the door and the W end anchors the the piece. 6 screws 3 at each end to fasten the hinge to the door and the piece. where can I get something close in style and size. please help. I have had no luck anyware. Re: hinges for a large antique ice boxFrom: james Here is a few place that sell antique ice box hardware. http://www.kennedyhardware.com/ Cedar chest repairFrom: ijusth@aol.com I have a cedar chest at least 80 years old. It has varnsih that is flaking off and some that almost looks like is was slightly charred (black and 'bubbled'). Additionally the wood veneer is lifting. I want to repair the piece. What varnish remover should I use and more importantly how do I reattach the veneer? Re: Cedar chest repairFrom: Jim Antique Works Chances are the veneer on your cedar chest was put on with hide cement and sometimes can be reattached by ironing w/ a hot iron. If not get some liquid hide glue and spread evenly on back of veneer and clamp in place. Many times veneer is only loose on the edges and masking tape pulled over ;edge is all the clamp you will need. For stripper almost any of the comercial brands such as Kutzit,Savogran,etc. will remove the finish which is probably lacquer. Veneer repairs should be done first ro prevent any further damage let glue cure at least 48 hours befor stripping. Saving old paintFrom: donnamc@ix.netcom.com I recently bought a corner cupboard with at least 4 different layers of paint. Naturally, the ugliest color is the last paint job. I want to remove this top layer and possibly more. How can I do that without jeopardizing other layers of paint? Thanks. (The paint may be milk paint, I really don't know what type it is.) Removing opaque stain from finishFrom: theodore.krzynowek@spwilm.zeneca.com I am looking for information to see if it is possible to "lift " an opaque (cloudy) stain from a lacquer or varnish clear finish. The piece is a coffee table made and finished in Panama in the "60's". It has a very high gloss finish. The white stain may have been caused by either water or heat or possibly both. I would like to restore the finish without refinishing. Is there a method worth trying? Re: Removing opaque stain from finishFrom: Jim Antique Works Cloudy sreas like you are asking about are usually moisture trapped in the finish. Try rubbing the area with plain peanut butter(not the chunky kind) or mayonaise. If that doesn't work try 0000 steel wool if that doesn't do it call a refinisher in your area as the stain is probably beyond anything you can do without running the risk of making a mess. gentlemans dresser w/hanky drawers need piecesFrom: Brenda Beierschmitt @ dbri54@hotmail.com needed wishbone mirror and holder, the finish is victorian walnut would like any info to help complete dresser, was greatgrand father thank you ,Brenda respond to dbri54@hotmail.com Re: gentlemans dresser w/hanky drawers need piecesFrom: Jim Antique Works Unless you can find amirror and stand in an antique shop or restorers (See listing for one in your area)you will have to have it custom made. If you will post more about condition of the rest of the dresser I will try to answer any other questions you have. Need advice on armchair styleFrom: Marcelo Paciorek (Argentina) I have two armchairs that I would like to restore. I need to know the style of those chairs, although it seems to be Queen Anne. I am able to send some pictures to anybody who can help me, to any place. I will very much appreciate your advice. (The armchairs have at least 50 years). Re: Need advice on armchair styleFrom: Jim Antique Works If you will post your email address I'll tell you where to send pictures by email or snail mail whichever you prefer. Roll Top Desk RepairFrom: Craig Does anyone have advice or tips on repairing a roll top? The fabric is quite old and has ripped between the slats in several places. Thanks Re: Roll Top Desk RepairFrom: JIm Antique Works The best procedure is to romove the oll cloth completely clean the slats and glue them to new cloth. Duck makes a good substitute for the original any good fabric store should have it. Re: Roll Top Desk RepairFrom: Jeff I use a medium weight canvas - available at fabric shops I also use pre-mixed hide glue from Franklins Its a bit more flexiblle and has a long open time Make a carriage or wooden jig at a perfect right angle to hold the fabric and the slats as you glue them or you'll have problems. Jeff Wood odorFrom: artbert@sbt.infi.net I have received an old printer's chest with about twenty drawers for type. It has a sharp odor to the wood. My mother thinks the smell is from mouse urine left in the cabinet from nesting. How can I remove the odor? Re: Wood odorFrom: Jim Antique Works Try Downey(sp) dryer sheets in the drawers. If that doesn't work seal inside of case and drawers with shellac. If that doesn't work get some commercial deodorant from Van Dykes Go to VanDykes.com for a catalogue. Re: Wood odorFrom: Rick Bertrand Try Jim's answer first. Another old remedy that will possibly work is a few bricks of charcoal and wadded up newspaper. Just place these inside the piece for about 3 days, then replace them with new for another 3 days. You can also try baking soda. Armoire/Side by Side replacement hardwareFrom: LT8@msn.com I am trying to find a replacement drawer pull for an oak side by side. I have checked Van Dykes with no luck. I was told that there are a couple of places that will make replacement pieces by making a mold of a good piece. Do you know of anyone that can do this? Re: Armoire/Side by Side replacement hardwareFrom: Jim Antique Works 18th Century Hardware Co. 412.694.2708 Fax 412.694.9587 will make them. Re: Armoire/Side by Side replacement hardwareFrom: Rick Bertrand I have some old hardware and some new ones, if you can send a good picture or drawing with dimensions, I will check to see if I have one. My address is: email bluebarn@exp.net mailing: 7012 W. Hwy. 105 Orange,Tx.77630 repairing antique bedroom furnitureFrom: M Arnold I have an antique bedroom set (full size bed, 4 drawer dresser and 3 drawer dresser w/mirror). The dressers have some water stains and some of the knobs are half broken off. The bed has a leg that is split and coming apart from the base also the foot board of the bed has a rail going across it that is cracked right in half. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can fix this myself or does it really need prfessional help. Thank you. Re: repairing antique bedroom furnitureFrom: Jim Antique Works Sounds like you really need to take your set to a pro. Check the listing on this site to see if there is a member near you. Antique Metal Picture Frame RepairFrom: wlbbck@earthlink.net I need someone who repairs metal picture frames. This one holds three 8x10's and fell breaking a few welds at the hinges. Re: Antique Metal Picture Frame RepairFrom: Jim Antique Works The "welds" on your picture frame are probably solder joints. If it is a silver frame take it to a jewelery repairman. If it is one of the grained ones you will need to find a restorer who can repair the joints and /or the graining because resoldering it will damage the graining. refinishing & apolstering platform rockerFrom: chenaex@mosquitonet.com I am looking for information on how my platform rocker was apolstered I believe it may be from late 1800s old apolstery is like carpet with leather trim I'm not sure how it was attached any information on platform rockers would be greatly appreciated as I have been having trouble finding info Re: refinishing & apolstering platform rockerFrom: Jim Antique Works The Upholstery on you chair is probably nailed on and the leather trim conceals the nails. Bugs in Stickley DeskFrom: jojokov@aol.com I have an orignal finish G.Stickley desk that has some type of recent insect damage. While dusting around the lower stretcher, I found a couple of new chewing marks on the surface that were about 1/4" wide and 3/4" long. Under the two bookshelf speakers (sat flush on stretcher) I also found 3 holes approximately 1/16th to 1/8th in diameter. These are also new, as I can see the fresh white of the oak. Under the desk top there are approximately 8-10 old holes of the same diameter that have aged to a dark brown over time. The piece has been in my home for 8 months without any noticable bug activity until this past week. Can anyone help? Do I need to fume it with something, or inject something into the holes?? Any help would be appreciated!! Thanks, John Re: Bugs in Stickley DeskFrom: Jim Antique Works The small holes sound like powder post beatles aka woodworms. The only sure cure I know of for these is to have the piece tented and gassed. Some exterminators can do this, but not all of them are liscensed for it. When I have had pieces done before it did not damage the finish. The piece does need to be aired out for 2-3 days after treatment even though the exterminators say its no longer active it still smells Worse than terrible. Re: Bugs in Stickley DeskFrom: Jeff Jewitt The bugs are active ifc you can find sawdust and the holes appear sharp around their edges. I've had good success with bagging the item in a large plastic bag and throwing a couple of no-pest strips in Jeff Manufacturer AssistanceFrom: Brent Windsor: brent.winsor@gte.net I have two pieces of furniture I recently refinished. I am trying to locate information on the furniture manufacturers in hopes of dating the pieces, but I am having no luck. Do you have any assistance in where I should go to help me date my furniture and find information on the specific manufacturers. The two pieces I have just refinished are: Desk, Manufactured by Dotfn-Dunton Desk Co. in Cambridge Massechusetts. Wardrobe, Manufactured by Wolf & Kraemer Furniture Co. in St. Louis, Missouri Re: Manufacturer AssistanceFrom: Jeff Jewitt This can be challenging but two sources you can try are the Thomas register (its online or at your library) This will only list current companies but if they keep past catalogs you might have luck. Also try calling the camber of commerce in the listed cities - they can help. Finally - never, never underestimate the resources of a good librarian at your library. Research is what they are paid to do and they love to do it to boot PS My mother in law is an ex research libriarian Jeff Re: Manufacturer AssistanceFrom: James This web site might have the info you want. www.asofa.org American Society Of Furniture Artists Replacing Shellac FinishFrom: Lisa B. I am removing/reamalgumating (sp.) a shellac finish from a (turn of the century?)walnut dining table and chairs. I can't decide how to refinish. I worry about alchohol water problems if I reapply shellac. What other options would be more resilient, and compatable with the old shellac remnants? Re: Replacing Shellac FinishFrom: Jim Antique Works Once you have the shellac in good condition no loose spots all edges feathered recoat with orange shellac to thoroughly seal the entire piece(s) then apply a lacquer finish over that. Black Walnut StoolFrom: ace What kind of finish should I use? Thanks Ace Re: Black Walnut StoolFrom: Jim Anntique Works Depends on the look you want. If you want glossy use lacquer, shellac or varnish. If you want a softer look try one of the long oil varnishes which are sold as Danish Oil or Antique Oil. marble table topFrom: mmleach@uswest.net Anyone know anything about dealing with scrathes on a marble surface? Any info about restoration would be greatly appreciated. Re: marble table topFrom: Jim Antique Works If the scratches are deep I would suggest that you take it to a marble shop to be repolished. If the scratches are not too bad you can polish them out yourself using sand paper starting with a grit that will scratch the marble a little less than the damage and going to finer and finer grits until you get to 1000 then compound with auto compound followed by rubbing compound and finally a couple of coats of good paste wax. Be careful to keep suface flat, don't cut any grooves or lakes(circular low spots) in it when you are sanding. 1960's kitchen table top?From: Ashley I am lost on how to cut a new piece of laminent for my oval shaped kichen table? There is a little lip going around it. Are there any tricks out there so I don't mess up on the first try? Thanks Re: 1960's kitchen table top?From: Jim Antique Works You need a router with the appropriate laminate trimmer bit and guide bearing. Cedar Hope chest restorationFrom: GGJAWDOC@aol.com I obtained a cedar hope chest from my 91 ear old grandmothers attic. she remembers it being there 60 years ago when she bought the house.It is from the Tennessee cedar and novelty company. the finish is darkened almost blach and the veneer on the top of the lid is splintering. One section has a piece of veneer 6X8 inches missing. I would like to refinish and repair this piece. It is very attractive with a wood rail on the top and decorative molding on the front. What will take the finish off to the original wood? Once this is done what will moisturize the wood again and what should i finish it with. How can I repair or replace the veneer on the top? Thanks alot Re: Cedar Hope chest restorationFrom: George T. Utley [gtu@buggs.net] If it's a factory -made piece (most likely) it has a lacquer finish. This can be removed with lacquer thinner and 00 steel wool. If not, a commercial paint and varnish remover will do the trick. You don't need to "moisturize" the wood - moisture of any kind is an anathma to finishes. Veneer repair can be tricky - Rockler's and Constantine's both have veneer for patching - getting a species and grain match will be the tricky part. Personally, I'd finish with either lacquer (there are some good areosoles on the market) or varnish (not polyurethane.) Re: Cedar Hope chest restorationFrom: Jeff Jewitt What will take the finish off to the original wood? Once this is done what will moisturize the wood again and what should i finish it with. How can I repair or replace the veneer on the top? Thanks alot This is probably an old shellac and any stripper will take it off. Do all the repairs before stripping -- including replacing the veneer. Let in a new patch of the same veneer. Wood doesnt need to be fed or moisturized. The finish that you put on the wood will protect it Jeff Re: Cedar Hope chest restorationFrom: Harold Sweeny sharietc@bcinet.net Lane has issued a recall on cedar chest locks from 1918 to present call 88-556-8758. you need serial # branded on outside bottom then lane will forward a new safe lock. antique wood framed mirrorFrom: lallen@fog.ccsf.cc.ca.us Any suggestions for restoring an intricately carved wood framed mirror. The wood needs to be cleaned, and although the mirror appears in good shape, the frame to be made study and the backing replaced. The carving detail is so intricate that I will need something that can get into the crevices. Re: antique wood framed mirrorFrom: George Utley If the frames has a clear finish (shellac, varnish, etc.), an old toothbrush with detergent (Murphy'd Oil Soap is what I use) will do the trick. If the mirror is gilded, you'll have to talk to someone else, I just don't know Re: antique wood framed mirrorFrom: Jim Antique Works If the backer is wood please try to save it that contributes significantly to the value. The finish will probalby strip easily w/ commercial canned stripper and you can clean crevices w/ a small brush you can get toothbrush sized firber bristle ones at hardware stores. You may be able to jus clean the finish and build it back up with lacquer and polish out with 0000 steel wool. You should remove the mirror before any stripping operation Replacing wood carved trimFrom: Claudia I have a beautiful antique bedroom set that was my great, great grandfathers. My Mother loaned this set out to a friend of my sisters for 15 years and when I finally tracked it down it was very badly damaged. Originally it had quite a bit of carved wood trim (half circles and leaf designs) and raised roses in the middle of the drawers. Now some of the trim and a few of the roses are missing. I got a few quotes for having the furniture repaired and refinished but they are more than my monthly mortgage!!! I love this furniture and want to restore it (as close as I can) to it's original beauty. My question is.... Can I "recreate" the wood trim and roses by making a clay mold and fill it with wood putty? If not what would you suggest? Re: Replacing wood carved trimFrom: Jim Antique Works From your description of the "carvings" on your bedroom set it sounds like thes are applied rather than carved in place. Many supply houses including WSI (800)-447-9974 sell them get a few of these and try to find a match. Otherwise its learn to carve or take it to a pro. Re: Replacing wood carved trimFrom: George Utley gtu@buggs.net Jim's right - this is a job for a pro. You're on the right track though, with the idea of using clay to make molds. For the positive, I use Bondo (thinned with acetone), then paint the wood color and grain back in using artists oil colors. Re: Replacing wood carved trimFrom: Frank If you are inclined, you can use latex molding liquid to make a mold if you have intact examples on your piece that match what is missing. Many layers are painted on until you have sufficient thickness to peel away. Some of these materials are heavier than others and if it is too thin you will need to make a "mother" of plaster or bondo. This "mother" helps to restore the proper shape of the mold after you peel it away and it further keeps the mold from distorting when you pour in your casting material. The molding clay can work yopu just need to be careful of distortion when you remove it from the wood. Use some kind of release agent, either a release agent sold at the craft store for this purpose, or vaseline or wax. Mold making can be a very valuable skill. Your dentist can give you sources for some of the best mold making latexes or rubbers. They can be a bit expensive though. The thinned Bondo (ref. Mr Cole's comment) or Minwax filler (same stuff but not such a terrible color as Bondo) is good stuff for the possitive-replacement piece. Other molding/casting materials are produced (check out craft supplies or catalogs) but I have found the latex to be the most reliable and capable of reproducing details. Good luck.
Issues with Restoring Antique Trunk -From: stockdaleT@aol.com I am trying to restore a trunk from circa 1915, it has some type of metal slats - they appear steel - and leather trim. I am wondering: 1) How to clean all the paint off the metal slats - I have already tried a Sterling 5F5 paint remover, but seems there are several layers 2) What to do with the leather trim - it is not in the best shape, but has about 200 tacks attaching it. How do you take the leather off and if so - what to put in its place? Most restoration shops here do not deal in leather trim. Suggestions would be much appreciated. Re: Issues with Restoring Antique Trunk -From: JIm Cole The metal straps on your trunk are probably blued steel and stripper will not remove the color, but if it is painted over and your stripper is taking off the paint keep going until you get to bare metal The leather can be replaced with stock items from WSI (800)-447-9974.if they don't have pieces to match you can have them made up by a good shoe shop. shoe shop Re: Issues with Restoring Antique Trunk -From: Oone thing you want to be aware of: leather trim was tradionally installed with a "clinched" nail. That is the nail was longer than the material (cincluding the wood) it was going through. During installation, it was driven against a metal backer, which caused it to curve back into the wood it had just penetrated. Looks sort of like a fish hook with a nail head on it! Difficult to remove without destroying the wood... White pickiling on new oak bookcasesFrom: Harold Sweeny Friend has purchased 4 new oak barristers & want help to pickel them. I know, the idea sounds terrible to me too! However- suggestions please on stain, finish etc. I feel like I am about to commit a serious crime with tis project. Re: White pickiling on new oak bookcasesFrom: George Utley gtu@buggs.net A technique I've used successfully for years utilizes latex paint tinted on off white, either a cream or pale tan. Brush on, wipe off, leaving the paint in the grain and a thin film over the entire surface. Depending on the "open" time of the paint, you'll be able to play with it until you get the look you want, then top coat with either lacquer or varnish. If you use lacquer, use a sealer first (after the paint). Re: White pickiling on new oak bookcasesFrom: Jim Cole It's not a crime to pickle oak but it should be. If you seal the wood with lacquer or shellac first the pickling will not soak into the wood and someday someone will thank you when tastes change ook of naturally old pineFrom: Donna McMenamin What would I use to make new pine look like old? I'm building a new house and all the cabinetry will be pine, but I want it to look like it has been there 100 yrs and has that wonderful old pine look. Any suggestions? Thanks. Re: look of naturally old pineFrom: Jim Cole Orange shellac will give you a nice reddish tone. If you want it darker seal the pine first with a light coat of shellac and then stain. The light shellac coat will prevent blotching and give much better color control. If you want druable finish varnish over with high grade varnish and polish out with 1000 grit sandpaper and apply paste wax. Re: look of naturally old pineFrom: Frank If you really want a natural look let it happen naturally. You have to wait to finish it for a couple years or more. Let oxidation do the work for you. I have done this and know I would not have been happier with any other coloring system with which I have experience. Pine is difficult to color to truly look naturally old. If you absolutley cannot wait you might try chemical colorants/oxidizers like Potassium permangenate, potassium dichromate, or even (gag) lye. These oxidizers work on (at least) cherry and mahogany. Use all precautions when working with these chemicals. The look comes closest to that beautiful even-colored brown of the natural color that I think you seek. Otherwise Jim Cole's suggestions are good and I would add that you might try a combination of colorants such as oil stain first (after seal) and the analine after that. They each strike into the wood differently. Of course this is extra work but it may be the way you satisfy your requirements. Good luck and maybe you could report your results. Re: look of naturally old pineFrom: Harold Sweeny sharietc@bcinet.net I use a 50/50 mix of orange shellac & laquer thinner to achieve a 100 yr. old look. It sets & drys in 5 to 10 minutes, usually 3 to 4 coats in a day. during use it is highly flamable be careful. Test it on a piece of scrap to see if that is the c0lor & finish you like. Restoring a Rocking ChairFrom: Jordan Hey, I'm restoring an antique rocking chair as my senior project... can anyone help me with methods of doing this and materials to use in the process? Please post if you can, THANX! Re: Restoring a Rocking ChairFrom: Jim Cole Jordan please be a little more specific about what you want to do to the chair and I will try to help you Re: Restoring a Rocking ChairFrom: The rocking chair is an old... I dunno... 19th century chair.. made of oak, in almost excellenct condition. I'm restoring it, as I said, for my senior project. I'm looking for information on different methods of restoration, and refinishing. Such as, which is better, stripping or sanding, and stuff such as that. What materials I can use, and a list of sights that will give me any or all of this information. Cracked Chinese Elm BuffetFrom: Dale This piece has suffered severe shrinkage since being shipped here from China. Cracks are 1/8" on top surface. What is best filler to use and what to do if it keeps shrinking? Re: Cracked Chinese Elm BuffetFrom: George Dale: First, how long has the piece been in it's present location? If under a year, I'd wait before I did anything. Chances are it still hasn't stabalized to the new environment (temp, humidity, etc.) The fill er I like best is an epoxy stick - two part, you knead it together like dough and work it into the area. You could use Bondo, but the epoxy stays slightly flexible nad will allow for a little more movement. I'd also go on the underside of the top and seal it - shellac, varnish, whatever. What happened is a shame - bet it's a nice looking piece Re: Cracked Chinese Elm BuffetFrom: Frank I'm new to this board and perhaps am missing how to see a picture. If so please let me know how to access it. If it's an email contact I would be happy to look at the Buffet pic. In the past 15 years I have worked on numerous Chinese Antiques. Waiting is a good idea for any piece recently moved to a new environment. Also, check the relative humidity where it now lives. You will want to raise the RH if you find it going below 30%. Since I am not looking at a pic I can't see the construction, however, if there is panel construction, one can often work loose (from it's frame) one or both sides of a split piece so it comes together (and then glue it). Sealing the underside is a good idea but with two warnings. 1] If this is an antique with good value, and you might resell it sometime, someone looking at it may be disturbed by the finish underneath. Most antiques have unfinished secondary woods. Finish on such a part can make some buyers suspicious even though the intent was good. 2] It would be best to be sure the humidity or moisture content of the wood is up where it should be before sealing. This goes along with the idea of waiting for the board to acclimate itself to new surroundings. I have witnessed English pieces go through major changes in the first course of seasons and then settle back to nearly original condition after the second winter. Still it is always good to keep track of and correct humidity (and other) extremes. Good luck. Re: Cracked Chinese Elm BuffetFrom: Jim Cole Frank you are not missing anything there are no pictures on this board CompoFrom: Greg Brown I am looking for a supplier on small quanitities of materials need to make compo, ie animal glue, rosin ect. Or a supplier of ready made compo. Thank You Re: CompoFrom: Jeff Jewitt Grace Baggot ay Baggot Gold leaf (she has a link on the home page of this forum) can assist. Very knowledgable Jeff antique baby carraige wheelsFrom: linada1@aol.com i am having trouble finding a source for wheels for an antique rattan baby carraige. any help would be apreciated Re: antique baby carraige wheelsFrom: James I did some searches on the internet and nothing came up for baby carraiges. If the spoke wheel design is simple, why not have them fabricated. The shops that construct decorative iron gates would do the best job. candlestick tableFrom: Lu ann Wilcox-rocnww@oklahoma.net Does anyone know about a company called Englewood? I have a candlestick table with the top that drops down. The top of the table is veneer and showes water stains. How can I restore this and make it look better. The base is in very good shape and really is not damaged. Can anyone help? Thanks. Re: candlestick tableFrom: Jim Cole The table you describe is usually called a tilt top or piecrust table. If the water stains are white they are in the finish and can be removed by rubbing out the top with 0000 steel wool then recoat with lacquer to build enough finish to protect the wood and polish out to restore gloss. If the water stains are black they are in the wood and will have to be bleached out after the top has been stripped use household bleach or wood bleach, but not both without neutralizing between them as the combination produces deadly fumes. You will have to bleach the entire top to get an even color then stain and finish with lacquer. 78 rpm recordsFrom: dschulze@txdirect.net We have 78 rpm records of clay and vinyl that were submerged in flood waters. Because they were stacked on top of each other with newspaper between them, the weight kept them from warping. How do we go about removing the dried mud and silt that has remained on the records after the water receded without scratching or breaking the records? Re: 78 rpm recordsFrom: Jeff Jewitt How about dipping them in bowls of clean, soapy water? Jeff Great Western Trunk 1873From: C. Klemm I want to restore a leather pull that was used to open the trunk. The only parts left on my trunk are the nails that held the pull, and a piece of leather directly under the nails. Where can I find a picture of the original trunk so that I can replicate the leather pull? Also, how can I get rid of the musty smell inside the trunk without ruining the paper lining. I also want to clean and preserve the carved leather outside covering. Any suggestions ? And, generally , where can I find more info on this trunk and it's value? Thanks a bunch. Re: Great Western Trunk 1873From: Jim Cole For the odor try dryer softner sheets jus tossem in and close the lid. WSI 800-447-9974 carrries trunk replacement parts including leather. To clean the outside try mild soap and water rinse well and oil with a good leather oil. Value on most old trunks is usually fairly low but yours sounds like it might be a nice one,try a local dealer to see if they have any ideas or books that might give you a clue as to value. how to take out old black water stain?From: peter Please help! need to take out black water stain and ring from an old baby grand piano top strip down already, Peter Re: how to take out old black water stain?From: Jeff Jewitt Oxalic acid crystals, dissolved in water is the first thing to try. Wipe the stain then the whole piece. Make sure the finish is removed and lightly sand it so that the bleach penetrates. Wait overnight to see if the stain is gone - another application may be required Jeff Jewitt veneerFrom: Michael-John English. I'm a final year student in The University of Limerick, Ireland. At the moment I am doing a final year project, compiling a comprehensive study of laburnum, a tree belong to the leguminosae family. Through my research, I have come across that laburnum was used for oyster shell veneering during the English Queen Ann Period, (oyster shell veneering= taking thin slices of veneers transversely from the branches) for decorating small artefacts. I would like to try veneering a coffee table with these oyster shell veneers, exploiting the contrasting colours between the yellow sapwood and the chocolate brown heartwood. I have tried cutting the veneers using a radial arm saw, but due to the thickness of the saw blade, I was wasting about three times the amount I was getting as veneer. A problem also arose in that they cupped up in me because of the different shrinkage rates. I have tried gluing them straight after being cut to MDF, but they cracked slightly in me. This is where I require your assistance. I would be very grateful if you could pass on to me any suggestions or information on: a)oyster shell veneering b) cut the veneers without loosing much wood as saw dust c) how I could prevent the veneers from cupping up (i.e. how can I keep the veneers flat) d) would it be possible to kiln dry the veneers e) what would be the best type of wood glue to use, so that it won't be absorbed through the veneers Re: veneerFrom: jim cole Veneer is usually cut with a knife while the wood is wet and hot. If you have access to a guillotine type trimmer you could probably use that to cut the veneer slices. If not cut them with a veneer saw or coping saw using a guide like a miter box. Then press the pieces to keep them flat and allow to dry. The traditional glue for veneering is hot hide. It takes a little practice to get used to using it but it works very well ;any excess can be cleaned up using clear water. Re: veneerFrom: Jeff Jewitt Jims right about the heat. Boil the branch in a pot until it sinks. If it doesnt sink -- boil for several hours at least. Also -- you are cutting it the wrong way. Oysters are cut obliquely -- not perpendicular to the grain. Slice it at a 45 or 30 degree instead. Jeff Jewitt wood wormFrom: Aiko van Hulsen I'm trying to find chemicals against woodworm preferably not killing my customers! Re: wood wormFrom: Jeff Jewitt I put the piece in a very large bag (sofa bags that furniture stores use work good) and throw in a "No-Pest Strip" leave it for a week. Keep the strip away from the finish Jeff Jewitt roll-top deskFrom: Lynne Cox Once the burlap was removed from the roll-top slats, a newspaper dated July 1, 1917 was found underneath, perhaps having once been a repair itself? Should we remove the newspaper as well? Is there any value in preserving it as it is? I read the comments about using duck cloth, etc. Not sure how I should proceed with my desk. Have never had it appraised. Thank you. Re: roll-top deskFrom: Jeff Jewitt This may be a more romantic notion, but sometimes the amkers of furniture -- in a whimsical mood- will place artifacts indicating the date within the piece. I've inlaind coins in my own furiture. I'd keep the paper with the piece-- but now exposed to air and light it may degrade rapidly. I use canvas for my roll-top repairs -- Jeff Jewitt Re: roll-top deskFrom: jim cole I'm not sure that the newspaper would have any value as I cannot remember anthing of great historicla signicance happennig that day. I would probably just leave it in the desk for someone else to find the next time it needs repair. If the finish is in good condition I would only make the repair to the rolltop then enjoy it. Re: roll-top deskFrom: Lynne Cox Underneath the newspaper, best we can tell without taking off all the paper, is a flour sack. Would it still be best just to repair the roll-top with canvas and leave the sack and paper on underneath? I appreciate your guidance! |