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articleFrom: BENRITE@EROLS.COM I BOUGHT A HERAND PORCELAIN VASE, I JUST NOTICED THAT A PIECE IS MISSING IS THERE SUCH A THING TO FIX IT? I'M IN NEW YORK CITY
Re: articleFrom: james I suggest you bring your item to a professional! There are several restorers listed on the website under Porcelain Restorers. You may wish to send a photo to obtain an estimate. RS PrussiaFrom: Johannes_Grabau@yahoo.com If any one knows: What does the "RS" stand for in "RS Prussia".
Re: RS PrussiaFrom: James Reinhold Schlegelmilch China Tea Pot.From: Giuliano Girometta (ELCRAFT) elcraft@gtis.net I am currently working on a moving damage claim and the moving company lost the lid of a tea pot . The claimant is stating that is of great value and we are tryng to establish the value in order to settle the claim. The pot is made in Japan and the manufacturer logo on the bottom said " CHERRY CHINA " and the wording is surrounded by a five point leaf . Your assistance in this matter will be greatly appreciated. Things are going crazy around here and we are so busy that we dont know yet if we will be able to make it to the convention in Vegas. Hope to see you there. Thank you in advance for your assistance. Giuliano & Cheryl Girometta ELCRAFT Nederland Tx. porcelain restorationFrom: arcieri@wspub.com Dear Anyone, Do you know of any current books on the technique of porcelain and ceramic restoration? Even a possible source would be helpful. Thank You, Michael Arcieri
Re: porcelain restoration..Books!From: James Conservation and Restoration of Ceramics by Victoria Oakley and Susan Buys is the most current book on the subject and perhaps the best ever written. Other texts you may wish to keep your eyes open for (out-of-print) are: Restoring Ceramics by Judy Larney and Porcelain Repair and Restoration by Nigel Williams. While many of the materials in these two books are a bit dated, most of the techniques and procedures remain current. Many outdated texts should be avoided as they instruct a practice built around irreversible techniques and materials. Conservation and Restoration of Ceramics by Oakley and Buys, 256 pp., paperback. Details and reviews: Conservation and Restoration of Ceramics By Victoria Oakley and Susan Buys Now available in paperback, this book opens with a discussion of the fundamental nature of the ceramic medium, information of importance when selecting treatments or considering conservation methods, the book then covers the restoration and conservation process, the nature and properties of materials commonly in use and gives guidance on the facilities and equipment needed. "We found this a welcome addition to our books on ceramic restoration and conservation as it is some years since an authoritative book has been published. It is impressive, comprehensive and well illustrated…. It immediately proved to be a useful reference book for our workshop-- both to check procedures and as a reminder for alternative methods." Shella de Cort and Gina Kelland, private restorers-- Conservation News, UKIC, July 1994. " This book does not teach 'conservation by numbers' but for trainees or practicing conservators wishing to refresh knowledge, or solve a problem, this is a treasure house." Susan Bradley, Head of Conservation Research, British Museum, Museum Journal, August, 1994. "The fundamental principles and processes will remain usable for many years, making this an excellent reference book." Studies in Conservation, February, 1995. CONTENTS INCLUDE: Part 1: The Technology of ceramics; The Deterioration of Ceramics; Preventive care of ceramics; Examination and recording. Part 2: The development of ceramics conservation; Removal of previous restoration materials; Cleaning; Reinforcement and consolidation; Bonding; Replacement of lost material; Retouching: the theory; Retouching: the practice. Part 3: Planning and equipping the studio; Materials for ceramics conservation. Part 4: Displaying and mounting ceramics; Emergency procedures. Appendices. Staple RepairsFrom: John Aikin Can anyone tell me about staple repairs in antique porcelain? I'm intrigued by how they were done, in what instances they were done, what tools and methods were used and why they went away/
Re: Staple RepairsFrom: James CommentsRivets on porcelain (or metal clamp repair as it was once known) has its origins in China. Ceramic restoration was once the work of metal smiths and jewelers. It was a prefered method of repair in Europe from the 1600's up until the 1960's. It actually lasted longer in the West than it should have. With the advent of epoxy and polyester resins restorers were able to bond vitreous materials (porcelain and glass) without the aid of rivets or wire laces. A very interesting book on the subject published by Faber & Faber in 1963 is CHINA MENDING & RESTORATION by C.M.S. Parsons and F.H. Curl. It details the use of "string" and "bob" hand drills with small diamond tips. Lots of pictures of the process and line drawings of cutting and placement of rivets. The first half of the book is about these now antiquated techniques and the later half is still somewhat relevent with chapters on bonding, filling and retouching. While considered destructive by current standards, it was just about the only means of securing vitreous materials in its day.
Painting over crack on white porcelain?From: farah CommentsOn white porcelain plate after we put two broken pieces together, how can we paint over it with bush if the plate is full of gold design and frisk/mask will remove the design for air brushing? I do appreciate the answer. Re: Painting over crack on white porcelain?From: Ernie CommentsThis is a real problem that doesn't have a simple answer. When I encounter gold designs, I try to control my overspray when near the gold. I then go back and clean off the gilding with a sharp edged brush and clean thinner. If you work carefully, you can clean right to the gilt edge. Your final protective coating should level our the surfaces.
the gold used to restore porcelainFrom: Dale Peterson/Restoration Services CommentsI need help in locating a supplier for "gold" used to restore porcelain cups, plates and etc. It is the "shinny metal" look I need and normal paint wont work. Where do I get a variety of gold colors in that type finished product???Thanks-Dale-cpeters2@webzone.net Re: the gold used to restore porcelainFrom: James CommentsThe unfortunate answer is "no where". The shiny effect which you refer to is more prevalent to 19th and 20th C gilt effects on ceramics (perhaps a fired mercury gilding). It has an almost mirror like quality and as such is very difficult to mimic. We are aware of no single metallic powder, leaf or paint which mimics this surface effect. Perhaps a good technique is to diminish expectations by explaining the limitations of restoring damaged fired gilding to the client. Beyond that we have created sympathetic gold repairs with multiple materials applied in a variety of fashions. Blended well ground bronze powders dusted over a size, allowed to dry and burnished lightly with a cotton swab. Gold waxes (in effect, bronze powders mixed in a microcrystalline wax) are excellent for "re-gilding" a rim edge or small areas of loss, tend to be quite brilliant and have good aging characteristics. Gold leaf, transfer leaf or gold powder (the redder golds matching fired gilt being somewhat more difficult to find). Nothing will work convincingly over large areas of missing reflective gilding. What we often see is the restorer feathering the powders and lacquers further and further over the original surfaces in the hope of creating a "match". Anything short of gold leaf or gold powder will oxidize, look grainy and discolor in a few short years. Gold waxes do hold some promise as far as longevity over powders mixed in paints. This is an age old problem for restorers and I wish it weren't so.
Porcelain repairFrom: lorlick@tcsn.net CommentsI would like to find out if a old cooking stove that has porcelain on it can be repaired. It is of 1930 vintiage and has several dings on the oven door and assorted others all over. The colors are off white and a green. The manu. is detroit stove co. Can anyone help??? Thank you... lorlick@tcsn.net Re: Porcelain repairFrom: CommentsYes it can be restored- There are those that restore porcelain signs to the point of undetectability and the stove porcelain is the same. Peroblem is getting the part to the restorer due to size and weight. Is it a large piece or small?? Dale -cpeters2@webzone .net
Micro Surface brand polishong clothFrom: Dale/Restoration Services Commentsin an article by Peter Dale he speaks of "Micro Surface" brand polishing cloth--CAn hw or anyone give me the name and address of a supplier of that product-Thanks-Dale Peterson/Restoration Services.
Re: Micro Surface brand polishong clothFrom: James CommentsMicro-Mesh is one manufacturer of silicon carbide coated cloth. Call (800) 225-3006 and they will give you the name and address of the closest distributor to you. Just as a side note, they produce a range of very fine grits. You may notice abrasion with grades below 1500 grit on original ceramic and glass surfaces.
Porcelain figurine repairFrom: hasemark@pwfl.com CommentsI'm currently trying to find someone in the Anchorage, Alaska area who can evaluate, provide cost estimate, and repair several japanese porcelain figurines which I purchased while stationed in Japan in 1980. Collectable figurines which were damaged during move are by Andrea and Kiyoto. Re: Porcelain figurine repairFrom: Lawrence CommentsYou may have some difficulty finding a ceramic restorer/conservator in your area. Your best first option is to contact your local or state museums for a referral. Another option is to contact the FAIC Conservation Services Referral System at: http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/aic/faic/refer.html They will send you a free geographical listing of ceramic restorers in Alaska if available. Do not be afraid of shipping moderate sized figures to the "lower 48" for professional attention. Bubble wrap and double boxing should insure safe transport via UPS, USPS or FedEx.
where do I start?From: gail roemer CommentsI have begun to buy chipped pieces of old, quality pottery and porcelain but I don't know where to begin...what supplies to buy, paints, etc. Any advice would be most appreciated! Re: where do I start?From: James CommentsThis is an often asked question, which has no simple answer. Many are called to the profession but few serve. The “self-taught“ route is nearly impossible to gain proficiency. There are hosts of one day, one week, and two-week courses available in the US but these too may be fraught depending on the background of the teachers and the expectations of the student. Courses with the aim of professional status may require one to three years of training and apprenticeship. A good starting point might be to arrange a visit to a restorers or conservators studio to see what is involved. Second would be to review the literature. There are books by Echo Evetts, Judith Larney and Nigel Williams, which give a good over view of the work, materials and techniques. These texts are somewhat dated but still valid outside of a few material and technical changes. More recently a book was written by Buys, S. and Oakley, V. The Conservation and Restoration of Ceramics. Butterworth-Heinemann, 1996. This is a fine text and bound to become the standard for students and practicing conservators alike. You may be able to find them at your library or through inter-library loan. Beware of texts such as “The Klein Method” and “How to Mend Your Treasures” which are clearly outdated. While there is a lot to learn there is also a lot to lose in terms of misapplied materials and techniques which may have irreversible consequences on your pieces. Health and safety is a big issue as solvents and often dangerous paints and fillers are used in the trade. Our most humble beginning in our course of study was a hammer and a teacup from Oxfam. But then we always considered ourselves lucky when we heard about the German glass restoration program which began with a hammer and a fluorescent glass tube…....
porcelain and other ceramic materialsFrom: harlan @ hrb54@microsoft.com Commentswhat are the best bonding materials for porcelain and ceramics and where can they be obtained?
Re: porcelain and other ceramic materialsFrom: James CommentsThere are a variety of considerations in choosing adhesives for ceramic restoration ranging from porosity of object, reversibility, strength of adhesive vs. strength of material, color, light fastness, toxicity, refractive index, etc. That said, porcelain can be bonded with Hxtal NYL which is an epoxy resin with good long term aging characteristics. It can prove very difficult to reverse once cured. Hardware store epoxies are yellow and the quick set varieties can be rather gummy once cured. Hxtal NYL is available from Adhering Technologies, (530) 676-4810. Pottery or other soft bodied ceramics can be bonded with Paraloid B-72. It has good long term aging characteristics and remains reversible. This is available in pre-mixed tubes or its raw form from Conservator's Emporium, (702) 852-0404 PVA emulsions may prove irreversible over time. Cyanoacrylates (super glue) breaks down quite quickly and is very damaging to soft bodied ceramics. If you are just beginning to bond ceramics you may wish to test your skills on broken crockery before undertaking repairs on valuable or sentimental objects. Be aware of the health and safety considerations associated with these products!
Restoration ClassFrom: mwmoang@aol.com(Mike Whitmore) CommentsHow can I find a list of people offering a class on pottery and porcelain repair Re: Restoration ClassFrom: James CommentsI am not aware of a list of classes for learning restoration of ceramics. There are certainly a host of classes available; some good, some not so good. You may wish to carry out a web search. Before undertaking a course of study check with former students and inquire of the teacher’s background and training. A short term class can only give you an inkling of materials and techniques and will not necessarily prepare you for the profession. If you are quite serious about undertaking a professional course of study you may wish to consider an apprenticeship or looking at a diploma program such as that offered by West Dean College in England. The web site is: http://www.westdean.org.uk/ceramics.html You can also look at the AIC web site ‘How to Become a Conservator’ at: http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/aic/become/index.html You will find links to a number of US sites/colleges dealing with training programs but none of which are specific to ceramics.
Hxtal solvent and cleaningFrom: Dale Peterson/Restoration Service CommentsI'm new at using Hxtal so--If I airbrush it on as a glaze or mix it in a glass container, either one, what solvent is used for clean up, especially the airbrush, and is it thin enough for an airbrush to spray or do you thin it and if so with what.
Re: Hxtal solvent and cleaningFrom: James CommentsWe generally use acetone swabs to clean up tools and the moderately cured joints. It is wise to clean up prior to a total cure as the resin is immovable short of mechanical removal (glass paper or a scalpel) or with a jellied methylene chloride based paint stripper. We generally wipe away the excess adhesive at about the 24 to 36 hour mark when it is half way cured. In our experience Hxtal is too problematic as an air brush medium. It does have applications for retouching with a brush on small areas (for enamel decoration on porcelain or inpainting a small fill or remodeled area like a finger). A small amount of denatured alcohol can be used to thin the resin. It has much better use as a colored fill (tinted with dry pigments) when bulked with fumed colloidal silica, rubbed down with glass paper, then Micromesh and finally polished with Autosol to a high finish. It creates an excellent semi-translucent fill which mimics porcelain and glaze. The long term aging characteristics and durability as a finished fill are superior to more traditional epoxy putties and paint mediums.
Porcelain Figurine RepairFrom: Landry CommentsI am desperately trying to find repairs in North Carolina for a bisque piece that was purchased over the holidays and promptly dropped onto a table. If there is no one in the area...is it safe to ship out of state? Also... is it possible to repair on my own? It was a very clean break w/no fragments. Thank you very much for any information you can give.
Re: Porcelain Figurine RepairFrom: James CommentsGo to the restorers list on this web site to find someone in your area.
how to mimic porcelain's glossFrom: sxu02@ccsf.cc.ca.us CommentsIn your valuable response to "Hextal Solvent and Cleaning", you mentioned about Micromesh & Autosol these two products. Are they good products as to make a porcelain I painted gloosy? Can they dry quickly? Are they strong enough for scraching? Would you please let me know which companies provide these products and what are their phone numbmers? Thank you.
Re: how to mimic porcelain's glossFrom: James CommentsMicro-Mesh is a manufacturer of silicon carbide coated cloth. Call (800) 225-3006 and they will give you the name and address of the closest distributor to you. They produce a range of very fine grits. You may notice abrasion with grades below 1500 grit on original ceramic and glass surfaces. Micro-mesh (perhaps a 3000 grit or finer) can be used to lightly sand an airbrushed paint to give a much finer finish prior to airbrushing with a final clear gloss coat. Autosol is available from Conservators Emporium, 775-852-0404. I would not suggest using it for "polishing" an applied paint as it has a solvent base which may soften the paint medium and certainly loosen the fine "flick-off" at the outer edges of the spray. If you are having problems with your paint/glaze you may wish to lessen the thinner or try other mediums. What are you using?
Hxtal coloring and getting it into cracksFrom: Dale Peterson/Restoration Services CommentsTwo questions-- 1. I wish to add colored xtal to the surface of an item, what do I color it with? 2. I read or heard you can get xtal to flow, seep, wick or whatever into a crack in porcelain or glass, how is this done??? and is it a good way to repair a crack without filling and etc. with other material then having to repaint the item also???? Thanks.
Re: Hxtal coloring and getting it into cracksFrom: James CommentsHxtal can be tinted and or opacified with dry pigments. The lemon yellows or cadmium yellows have an adverse effect on the resin (it turns a different shade after days or weeks). Liquid colorants may impede the cure. Hxtal will wick into hairline cracks by applying heat (hair drier) to the ceramic (vitrious ceramics and glass only!)first then a fine bead of Hxtal (clear resin with glass and slightly opacified resin on porcelain) along the crack, allowed to cure from 24-36 hours and wiped off with an acetone swab. Be aware that such an application is irreversible and while Hxtal is quite stable, it too will yellow after many years. Hxtal without a bulking agent (fumed colloidal silica) will merely flow out of anything short of a travelling crack or hairline due to its low viscosity. When bulked and tinted, it is an excellent and often near invisible filling material. It can be polished with glass paper, Micromesh and Autosol to mimic the luster of glaze. Thorough cleaning and stain removal is required for this technique to work well.
Removing "superglue" from soft paste PorcelainFrom: Kirsten CommentsA customer tried to glue a soft paste porcelain plate with superglue. What is the best way to remove the glue. The plate is in pieces but the glue remains. I was taught to use zip-strip.
Re: Removing "superglue" from soft paste PorcelainFrom: James CommentsOne of the problems you may have to solve before implementing a treatment is determining the true composition of the article. We find that a lot of people use the term "soft paste porcelain" loosely to describe a range of non hard paste porcelains, including pottery whitewares and bone china. Technically, soft paste porcelain is a French (pate tendre) and English forerunner of true hard paste porcelain, manufactured in the mid to late 18th century. Bone china of the later 18th and 19th centuries also has a degree of absorbancy or "softness". Removal of the superglue (cyanoacrylate) is determined by the degree of absorbancy of the body. True soft paste porcelain can be quite dense and can tolerate removal of the adhesive without absorbing a lot of the solvent mixture. We use Marine Strip which is a commercially formulated jellied paint stripper which has methylene chloride and a number of other solvents in the cocktail as the active ingrediants. The stripper can be applied with a natural bristle brush to the break edges and allowed to swell and break down the adhesive. You should work quickly to avoid the mixture being absorbed into the body which will have an adverse impact on the subsequent adhesive. Soft potteries which have been bonded with cyanoacrylates will most likely have absorbed the adhesive which makes removal other than from the surface impossible. When you rebond the object you will find that the joints are less than perfect due to the consolidation of the soft body. Anything less than true soft paste porcelain will require long term soaks in fresh water or acetone to flush out the residues of the Marine Strip and allowed to dry for up to a week. Cyanocrylates are also soluble in nitromethane and dimethyl formamide. As with any treatments in restoration and conservation you should follow the strict guidelines for use and health and safety provided by the manufacturer. This is a continuing problem with commercial adhesives which claim to have applications to porcelain, pottery and glass when in fact they may be irreversible.
Ceramic restoration materialsFrom: 113063.11@compuserve CommentsDoes anybody know of a modelling/ restoration product that will not be affected by temperatures of over 150 degrees C. This temperature is needed in order to cold fire glazes.
Re: Ceramic restoration materialsFrom: Lawrence CommentsMost epoxy putties would withstand temperatures below 250 F. Heating does "age" the material and yellowing of the putty occurs. Of more concern is the impact of heating on the adhesive you may be using to bond the object. And since you asked, heating ceramics also has an adverse effect on thermoluminescent dating and can weaken glaze and body adhesion on pottery and enamel decoration. Milliput Superfine White is a very good epoxy putty.
Re: Ceramic restoration materialsFrom: 113063.11@comnpuserve CommentsThank you for the advice. Regarding the type of adhesive to use when bonding pieces that are to be heated. I often have to replace very small items on ceramic figures, hands, arms etc. Could you advise the best method or glue by which to attach such repairs. I use wire supports that are are placed in drilled holes in the body of the repair. but at times the repair is too thin to do this, thereby making prone to become detached easily.
Re: Ceramic restoration materialsFrom: James CommentsI think that dowelling is no longer required for the applications that you cite. They have a tendancy to "break out" of the dowel hole and cause greater damages if the article suffers future breakage. Heating up dowelled objects risks expansion of the metal armature and cracking the ceramic. Epoxies such as Hxtal when used to bond epoxy putties such as Milliput will secure fingers, arms etc. very well without dowelling. Milliput does have adhesive properties in and of itself but is best when bonded to the original ceramic (vitrified ceramics only!)with Hxtal. As an alternative to stoving (heating) your objects you may wish to investigate cold cure glazes such as Rustins.
Hairline and ceramic finishFrom: George Wing CommentsWhat is the best method and materials to use for hairline repair and refinishing to obtain that porcelain "glaze" look? Re: Hairline and ceramic finishFrom: James CommentsHxtal NYL is used by many conservators to consolidate a cleaned and bleached hard paste porcelain or glass hairline crack. Please be aware that Hxtal (like all epoxies) is irreversible when induced into a crack and while it does have excellent long term aging characteristics it will yellow in time, the length of which is determined by the display environment. Some restorers use Paraloid B-72 to secure a crack or even bond porcelain but it does not have the strength or the refractive qualities of Hxtal. Paraloid as opposed to Hxtal does remain easily reversible indefinitely.
stoneware crocksFrom: tcorey@aol.com CommentsWe have a stoneware crock that was in a fire. The salt glaze is crazed and smoke has gotten in. Is there any way to clean this? What would be best to clean the surface of the crock? Any way to get stains out? Thanks for any help.
Re: stoneware crocksFrom: James CommentsThis is a difficult question. Much depends upon the circumstance of the "fire". We have had a number of experiences over the years with fire related materials. Most recently we were involved in the restoration and conservation of approx. 60 fire related damaged ceramics with the arson of the Thomas Wolfe House here in Asheville NC. The damages ranged from smoke damages to actual refiring of the object where the glaze was blistered and irreversibly changed. Much depends upon the temperatures reached in the fire and the nature of the materials burning in proximity. We are aware of published treatments where simple cleaning with soft abrasives sufficed all the way up to radical treatments of refiring to remove engrained deposites (not suggested). Poultices may work to pull out soot or perhaps prolonged soaks. I would be adverse to suggest a firm course of treatment with crazing and engrained soot without viewing the object. You may wish to consult a qualified ceramic conservator.
Gold waxes for restorationFrom: h4874@aol.com CommentsI saw a recent post in which "gold wax" was recommended in restoring gilding and was wondering if anyone had a source or if this is something that could be made, perhaps by mixing wax with gold or bronze powders? Thanks
Re: Gold waxes for restorationFrom: James CommentsFired gilt is, as you know, difficult to match. Using various combinations of leaf, bronze powders, and "gold" waxes we seem to do an adequate job on all but the latter 19th and 20th century "mirror" like gilt finishes. I personally like the gold waxes best for touching in restoration on rims and edge applications. It can't be used for retouching fine lines. The wax I like best (and seems to have very good longevity before tarnishing) is a blend made by Dugay. My stock was bought in 1997 and while they do dry up in their pots, I renourish them with a few drops of xylene. They seem to be a blend of microcrystalline wax and very finely ground bronze powders. You can try making your own with Renaissance Wax and a fine grade of bronze powders (mixing powders to match). The address for Dugay (if indeed they are still around) is: 92 Rue de Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 93400 Paris, France The phone number is (was): 42-54-06-91. There are other gold waxes around but I have never seen the same quality as these. It can be applied from th tip of your finger or a small swab, allowed to dry briefly then buffed with a bit of soft tissue. Be aware that while the wax dries fairly hard, it is a fine finish and will not tolerate excessive handling, washing, or heat, but then what restoration will? gold waxes for restorationFrom: h4874@aol.com CommentsWhile I was waiting for an answer, I tried the very same thing that you suggested...I melted Renaissance Wax and added bronze powders, and it didn't work very well, maybe because I didn't put enough powder in. I have used the tinted Dugay on furniture, and will check with the supplier that I got it from in NYC to see if she has the gold. Will let you know if it is available. Thanks
pottery and porcelain repair and restoration coursesFrom: CommentsCan anybody recommend a residential course where I can learn pottery and porcelain restoration ? It must be residential as I am located in the Isle of Man. hstem@advsys.co.uk Re: pottery and porcelain repair and restoration coursesFrom: James CommentsThe answer to this question is just above, about 8 questions, titled-"Ceramic Restoration Training at West Dean College".
Ceramic Restoration Training at West Dean College.From: James CommentsFor those of you interested and in a position to visit, West Dean College will host an open house on Wednesday 3 February 1999 from 10:30-4. * Visit the workshops * Meet the students * Talk to the tutors and admissions staff * View the accommodation * Funding advice available Diplomas in: making early stringed musical instruments tapestry weaving and the conservation and restoration of CERAMICS clocks furniture fine metalwork books and manuscripts These postgraduate diploma courses are validated by the University of Sussex. A free mini-bus service between Chichester and West dean College will be running throughout the day. Refreshments will be provided. For further information and to reserve places please contact: Diploma Course Office West Dean College West Dean Chichester West Sussex O18 0QZ +44 1243 818232 or 811301 Fax +44 1243 818291 Interested parties should contact: Marie-Odile Robbins email: westdean@pavilion.co.uk <URL:http://www.westdean.org.uk/>
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