ANTIQUE FURNITURE RESTORATION DISCUSSION ARCHIVE
pledgeFrom: Claire Hirzel Dear James, I have a question for you, it's a very common problem, maybe you have the answer. How can I remove "Pledge" from a tabletop? (because it contains Silicones, all other finishes won't stick to the surface) I would also like to know If you can tell me how to stain new leather for a table. Is it common to use Caustic Soda(natrium hydroxyde)? Thank you, Claire Hirzel
Pledge removalFrom: Jeff Jewitt You can remove most of the pledge with mineral spirits and a clean cloth. The silicone thats in the Pledge is rather tenacious and cannot be removed 100%. Leather stains can be purchased from Tandy Leather which has nationwide stores -- or try a web search Jeff refinishing old deskFrom: Vickie Dones We have an old desk that has been painted. We are taking off the paint and refinishing it. It is black walnut. The question is there are screw holes in the back, which makes us think it might not have been a desk. It has three narrow drawers side-by-side. We want to restore it back to its original state, but we need to know more about it. Can you recommend where we can learn more about it? Re: refinishing old deskFrom: Jeff The screw holes may have been from a molding or a mirror that was attached to the back. Without seeing the desk its hard to say If you can find any dates on hardware or the back or the drawers - that would be one way. Other thab that -- try your local library -- they have tons of style books and information on antiques Jeff
Re: refinishing old deskFrom: Lovejoy Sounds like your desk was once a vanity, If you want to find out it's vintage the best way is to look at how it was built. The type of screws,nails,locks and castors can often place the date of manfacture within ten years. wood joints can also give a very good indication of a Items age,example , dovetail joints that are machine cut are a product of the late 19th Century, old screws ( 1849 ) had no points on the end, ceramic castors appeared about 1851 and round wire nails became common in the 1890's. There are several good books on the subject, but the best all round that I have come across is The Counrty life Antiques Hand Book, published by Country life books. This book is a wealth of information and covers furniture, clocks, china, glass and silver. If you had to have only one book on antiques this is the one. I hope this has been of some help. Lovejoy refinishing a deskFrom: Terry Duty HELP! I am new to this stuff but have really enjoyed stripping down an older 1940's/50's desk. MY problem- after a complete sanding ooff of the old shelac I have foun that the desk is made of 2 woods. The top and drawer are what apper to be mahogony, the frame and legs are a very light wood, ash? Now the question after ALL this sanding how can I stain/dye/varnish this desk so it is not two tone, and not too dark? product recommendations? Thanks: a rookie stain removalFrom: Meira Kain Is there an easier was of removing stain from old oak chairs? I am using sand paper to remove what seems like a deep penetration of the dark stain. HELP!!! my arms have become numb!
Re: stain removalFrom: Jeff Jewitt Stains are usually one of two types--- dye based or pigment based. Normal stripping should remove or at least lighten a pigment based stain. A dye stain penetrates much deeper but you should be able to remove it with a chlorine based bleach. Try a few drops of Clorox on an inconspicuous area --- if it lightens --- do the whole piece. This will save you hours of sanding. If its a chemical stain it may not respond - and I'm afraid the only thing to do wouyld to keep sanding Jeff
Re: stain removalFrom: Lovejoy Some stains will resist all attempts to remove them, as a last resort you could try a A&B type bleach, bleach of this type will even remove the natural colour of some woods! A&B Two part bleach can be purchased in most paint and wallpaper outlets and are fairly easy to use, but you should try them on a small spot out of sight ( under the seat of the chair )first ,just to see if the result is what you are looking for. StaircaseFrom: Jeff We are restoring a 100 year old queen anne style house. We have a beautiful oak staircase, which i am sanding down to bare wood. So far, I have redone only three (of thirteen) treads. My question is, do I have to put on two coats of amber shellac, and would like your opinion on the best "top coat" protection? The only bathroom in the house is up the stairs, therefore it's a very high traffic area. Your advice is greatly appreciated. And while i'm at it, do you have any suggestions regarding the refinishing of a veneered oak door with 'serious' crazing (from outdoor exposure)? There are a fair number of "applique" designs, crazed as well. Currently has a "mahogany" (dark) stain. We live in Minnesota, So 'weather proof' (sorta) is important. Thanks again for any input. Look forward to hearing from you.
Re: StaircaseFrom: Jeff Jewitt <<<We are restoring a 100 year old queen anne style house. We have a beautiful oak staircase, which i am sanding down to bare wood. So far, I have redone only three (of thirteen) treads. My question is, do I have to put on two coats of amber shellac, and would like your opinion on the best "top coat" protection? The only bathroom in the house is up the stairs, therefore it's a very high traffic area. Your advice is greatly appreciated. >>> The floors were originally done with shellac and them waxed and there is no problem with this treatment. In the old days -- people just re-shellacked the floors when they started looking worn. Since shellac re-bonds to itself - this was not a problem. You can always put a more durable finish on the stairs - but if you are using the shellac for color - then use de-waxed shellac followed by a satin polyurethane. You can use as much shellac as you like for color. <<<And while i'm at it, do you have any suggestions regarding the refinishing of a veneered oak door with 'serious' crazing (from outdoor exposure)? There are a fair number of "applique" designs, crazed as well. Currently has a "mahogany" (dark) stain. We live in Minnesota, So 'weather proof' (sorta) is important. >>> A spar varnish is your only choice. Remove the old finish and re-do it. If you can protect the door somehow from direct sun it will last longer. Rather than stripping off a thick finish every 2-3 years --- I feel its easier to apply several thin coats every year. Jeff
Re: StaircaseFrom: Jeff G Jeff J Is there any alternative to stripping the finish off of the oak door? Can the crazing be abraded off? It is such a dark stain and the appliques and mouldings (egg and dart and others surrounding the oval glass)that stripping would be tough at best. The door is over 100 years old and I would like to retain the finish if I can.
Re: StaircaseFrom: Lovejoy A topcoat is only as good as it's substrate, your best bet is to take your door to a commercial stripper, they can safely remove all the old finish ,even from delicate mouldings. The finish that is on your door is only as original as it's last coat, what is on the door at present is most likely layer upon layer of old top coats which is why it appears so dark. queen bed modificationFrom: liz@sports-spectrum.com Jeff-Could you provide a plan for coverting a standard bed into a queen? The one I hope to do is a small four poster with no detail on the side rails. Thanks. Liz
Re: queen bed modificationFrom: jeff jewitt@compuserve.com Hmm -- without severely modifying the headdboad width --- the only thing you can do is to install conversion brackets which should be available from a good bedding store in your area. Jeff
Re: queen bed modificationFrom: Jeff Jewitt Without drastic modification to the headboard -- the only way I know id to purchase conversion brackets available from most bedding stores Jeff Finishing a cherry table?From: Dan C. I have just removed a very dark stain from a recently puchased antique table - it looks like the table was actually cherry (this is my first refinishing job). I now want to finish the table, but do not want to darken the color of the wood from its current condition. I have had someone suggest a couple of coats of tung oil, followed by polyeurethane. Does this sound like a good alternative, or do you have any other suggestions? Thanks in advance for your help. Cheers, Re: Finishing a cherry table?From: jim antique works jac111@new-vista1.com PLEASE DO NOT PUT POLY ON AN ANTIQUE! A Better treatment would be to seal the table with 2 light coats of 3lb. shelac then topcoat with lacquer or a long oil varnish. A coat of paste wax over eaither one will provide extra protection and a richer look.
Re: Finishing a cherry table?From: jeffjewitt@compuserve.com Jims advice is right on. Id opt for several coats of the shellac he mentioned. You can also use a dark garnet shellac if you want some "color". Follw this with a waterlox or Rockhard (behlen) varnish rather than the long oil, though, as it will rub out better. Jeff
Re: Finishing a cherry table?From: Jim Jeff smile when you throw rocks at long oil varnish. It may be a little harder to rub out but it is much easier to put on. Purple 3M does very nice job of removing any nibs or overlaps, then 4-0 wool will polish nicely. Where can I get glass for an antique china closet?From: K. Day Re: Where can I get glass for an antique china closet?From: Jeff Jewitt What type of glass is it??? -- if your looking for curved glass -- BL Antique Glass in Michigan can help - they can fabricate from templates 800-840-1110 Jeff
chair repairFrom: J. McKenzie I am repairing a mahogony chair from the 30/40's with a shield back style. The top of the back of the chair needs to be removed and new dowels installed. I am haveing trouble separtating the top. I think it was once repaired poorly with elmers. I found a metal pencil head in one of the dowel holes! Should I try vinigar in the joints? I have already broken the top piece! UGHHH I ignorantly thought I only needed to pull! I have another chair that is missing cross pieces on the legs. I could make the two chairs into one as well. Thanks
Re: chair repairFrom: jim antique works you are on the right track. vinegar will disolve the glue and make it easy to remove parts, but be patient it can take a while. you may want to try injecting the vinegar in the joints with a syringe. you can probably save both chairs by making new stretcher to replace the missing one. if you don't have the skills or equipment to make one try a professional shop in your area.
From: jim antique works vinegar should break the glue bond. you might want to try injecting it into joint w/ syringe. in any case be patient it takes a while. have you considered making stretcher for the missing one, then you can save both chairs.
Re: chair repair againFrom: Lovejoy The method used to remove the top of your chair depends on the type of glue used in it's contruction, but one method seems to work best for all and this is heat. The method I have found to be most effective on modern chairs is to heat up the area of the joint in question with a heat gun until it is almost too hot to hold and then tap it apart with a padded wooden mallet, once the joint is loose it is much easier to determine what type of glue has been used and what further steps should be taken in the repair. One other trick you could use to break a glue bond in a tight joint where there is no gap to inject into ,drill a small hole the same size as the end of syringe ( without the needle attached ) and just plug the syringe into the hole and inject the required solvent. The syringe exerts an enormous hydraulic pressure that will force the solvent into any available void within the joint. The injection hole is so small it is very easy to repair.
Re: refinish a deskFrom: Lovejoy If you want to leave the top and drawers of your desk a natural mahogany shade and want to stain the frame and legs to match, first wipe the top with with some paint thinner, this will give you a better idea as to how the mahogany will appear with a clear finish. This is the colour you will have to match the legs to. To get a really good stain match I would suggest using a water base dye stain, I feel they give a much more natural look than pigmented stains or glazes. Most refinishing supply houses and paint centres have stain colour charts to help you pick your colour using this simple method, take the colour chart and punch holes in the centre of each colour chip, lay the chart on top of the mahogany desk top and look at the holes you have punched out. The colour chip that matches the top of your desk top will be the one where the punch hole appears to have vanished.This happens because the colour in the hole ( your desk top colour ) matches that of the chip! I know it sounds strange but it works everytime. Once the top and legs match in colour you can top coat with the finish of your choice.
Warped Fireplace MantelFrom: Jeff G We are retoring on of our fireplace mantels, it is over 100 years old and oak. At some point the lower mantel became warped. Do I need to replace it, or is there some method of straightening it out...preferably while it is still on the fireplace.
Re: Warped Fireplace MantelFrom: Jeff Jewitt It probably won't stay straight if you straighten it -- I'd opt for replacing it as it will probably work out to be less work in the long run. Jeff
Re: Warped Fireplace MantelFrom: jim antique works i have had some success remaving warps by laying boards convex side up in the sun on a stack of wet news paper. be aware that this con result in dark stains on oak which will then have to be bleached out. maybe aomeone else can auggest amethod of staigtnening in place i hope so i would like to know that trick too. Chair repairFrom: Jeff Jewitt Yes vinegar works -- inject it with a syringe if possible. Warming it may help it wick in the joint. Let it sit for thirty minutes before trying to break the bond. Stretchers are pretty easy to have made. Most good furniture shops can make them inexpensively Jeff
chair repair againFrom: J Mckenzie Thankyou for the replies. I will try it with a syringe as I was not able to break the bond just pouring it around the joint. The piece I am seperating is a shield back chair with a wheat pattern in the middle. I also have loose arms on the armchairs and I need to remove the little buttons that cover the holes where I assume a screw is. Thanks again.
Fasteners holding top of China ClosetFrom: Joe Esposito I am trying to restore my mothers China closet. It was made in the late 40's and is Mahagany Veneer. Right now its painted green. I need to seperate the top from the bottom to get it in my shop. There are 2 screws near the bottom front. The rear seems to have corragated fasteners. Any ideas on removing clips without destroying wood?
Re: Fasteners holding top of China ClosetFrom: Jeff Jewitt These are a real bugger to remove -- First --- try drilling small holes on either side to "loosen" them --- and then you can sometimes pull them free by wiggling them out with small needle-nose pliers. If that doesn't work you'll have to pare away wood from either side of the fastener and then pry them out with some pliers. Jeff Pressed Back RockerFrom: Kevin I have an antique pressed back rocker (probably mahogany) that was refinished in a cherry stain. one arm is broken loose and one of the spindles is broken. It is possible to repair spindle but will be very weak. I have made reasonable replica on lath. What should I do?
Re: Pressed Back RockerFrom: Jeff Jewitt If you have made a reasonable replica --- what is it you are asking?? How to glue it? How to finish it to match?? Jeff
Antique walnut bureau knobsFrom: Robert F. Pacini I am a woodturner that has been comissioned to replace dammaged walnut knobs on an antigue bureau. The piece is approximately 100 yrs old and the knobs have a marvelous red hue under a lacquer finish. The new knobs have none of the beautiful patina. I am looking for suggestions to duplicate this color without using stains that simply hide the grain. Use of water based dyes have been the most effective in providing tranparency of the grain and matching the color. I will entertain any suggestions regarding alternate methods.
Re: Antique walnut bureau knobsFrom: Jim Antique Works Are you sure they are walnut? Many of these pieces had knobs made of other wood, frequently maple which was dyed. Getting the patina to match is a bear, but you are on the right track w/ dye. Multiple coats of finish with lots of rubbing topped w/ a quality paste wax will get there but it takes time after all you are trying to duplicate 100yrs. of grime wax, hand polishing, UV exposure. GOOD LUCK
Re: Antique walnut bureau knobsFrom: Jeff Jewitt The dyes are about the best way to go --- but Ive had very good luck using a dye first, seal with dark garnet shellac, then using a pigmented stain like Bartleys Jet Mahogany (Reddish) and then sealing w shellac. Jeff Jewitt
Re: Antique walnut bureau knobsFrom: Fred Wilbur-woodcarver The reddish hue may be mulberry stain often used to imitate mahogany. Walnut lightens with age unlike some other woods, such as cherry which darken. label preseveration on furnitureFrom: Gregg Allison I have used a acid free mylar sealed it with shellac or hot hide glue. The problem that I have is when I have to run the piece through the tanks then rinse it off with water the seal breaks down and I (1) have the sealant break down and the label becomes contaminated and I lose either the writing on the label or I lose the label. Any thoughts?
label preseveration on furnitureFrom: Gregg Allison I have used a acid free mylar sealed it with shellac or hot hide glue. The problem that I have is when I have to run the piece through the tanks then rinse it off with water the seal breaks down and I have the sealant break down and the label becomes contaminated and I lose either the writing on the label or I lose the label. Any thoughts?
Re: label preseveration on furnitureFrom: Jeff Jewitt Its a problem --- I agree. If you are going to run the piece through a powered stripping system -- you'll have to remove the part that has the label on it or hand strip around it. If its durable enough -- you can also try removing it but thats a last resort Jeff Re: Pressed Back RockerFrom: Jim Antique Works If original will be too weak repaired go ahead and put in the replacement and finish to match. You Should mark end of replacement so when it becomes priceless antique some conservator won't get fooled.
crack along the seam on round pedistle oak dining tableFrom: Bob Warfield I have a round pedistle oak dining table which we use. Over time, one "end" (that is, one of the edges that is made of parellel boards) has developed a crack along the seam, about 1/4 inch wide at one end but attached at the other. The crack is on the top, but on the bottom the 2 boards are abutting each other. It looks as though the 2 boards are tongue & groove. I have tried to use a clamped board to lift the sagging edge to make the surface flat and tried the use a clamp to "pull" the edge boards, about 6 inchs, toward the center but it won't move. Is it possible to squeeze that crack closed or will it have to be filled, & if so, with what? Thank you. Any suggestions are appreciated.
Re: crack along the seam on round pedistle oak dining tableFrom: Jim Antique Works The best remedy is to make shim which will fill crack.. Generally when table tob seperates as you describe top has shrunk and warped.
Re: crack along the seam on round pedistle oak dining tableFrom: Jeff Jewitt Jims right --- use wood as you will never be able to get the seams to meet. Putty, and other fillers are not as good as using wood. Jeff
milk paint removalFrom: Millie Need information on product to use to remove the old time milk paint from s piece of furniture
Re: milk paint removalFrom: Jim Antique Works Why do you want to remove milk paint?? Chances are the piece is more valuable with the milk paint intact, even if a lot of it is missing or damaged.
Re: milk paint removalFrom: Jeff Jewitt Behlens makes a powder PDE which will remove it. Also --- many finishers soak rags in a water/lye solution and wrap them on the piece. Jeff
Re: milk paint removalFrom: James On the TV show " Antique Roadshow " there was a fellow who brought in a American high boy that originally had ' dirty red milk paint " on it. He had it refinished and now it was ' He thought" worth more. Well it valued at $100,000 before he refinished it and now it was worth $ 15,000. It really pays to know your antiques. Cane Web Chair Repair From: Ken What is the cost of cane webbing kit and cost of additional cane webbing sheet etc.. I have 8 chairs with broken webbing on seat bottom. 16.25 inch by 18 inch each . The color is blond natural wood with chrome frame (2 legs only with U base on floor). These are very high quality chairs, 15 years old . They are spline type installation. The cane web backs are in very good condition and do not need repair. I have not done this repair before, but I am confortable with doing any type of detailed repairs. I know that I must send a sample of the cane web to a cane web supplier to match. Also, in general, how much time is required to repair one chair and what is involved. Thanks, Ken Morrow
Re: Cane Web Chair RepairFrom: Jim Antique Works See Franks Cane and Rush Supply Cat. @ Http;//www.franksupply.com. Their cat. is on line. Since this is first time suggest you order instruction book as well as cane.
Re: Cane Web Chair RepairFrom: Ken Morrow Thanks for your e-mail. These are Breuer chairs. last night I tried to remove a spline and failed. I had used a q-tip to apply a 50-50 solution of white vinegar and water, let it stand a half hour, and began at the back where the spline ends came together. I used the can opener of a jack knife and split some of the spline. I tried using the old webbing to pull out the spline too. The result was 2 inches of split spline and no luck in going further. Is the old spline reuseable or is it normally destroyed in removal ? In putting back an old spline or putting in a new spline, what is the technique to get the spline ends to be so closely butted to each other ? Thanks, Ken Morrow Re: Cane Web Chair RepairFrom: Jim Antique Works Given the age of your chairs the spline may have been installed with epoxy, vinegar will not disolve it. Try cutting around edge of spline to deptth of 1/8" or less to break bond w/ finished surface. A 1/4 chisel if it will fit gorrve can be used to priy out spline. New spline should be used to install new cane. To get a good butt joint on spline overlap ends and ctu to length, then bevel 1 or 2 degrees from top to bottom away form ends this will let spline butt tightly w/o pushing up and give nice flat seam.
chest of drawers restorationFrom: catina daly I have a 3-drawer oak chest of drawers designed in the cottage style. It is covered with 2 layers of paint. The upper layer appears to be an oil based paint while the lower layer is milk paint decorated with acanthus leaves. My question is whether it is possible to remove the upper layer of paint while preserving the lower layer of milk paint and its decorations. Thank you.
Re: chest of drawers restorationFrom: Jeff Jewitt If you get ahold of a product called peel-away tm or safest stripper (3M) they are able to remove the top coat without disturbing the original casein based paint. However -- I must caution you that this is an inherently risky procedue and success depends upon proper timing and the fact that you absolutely know that the original paint is casein based. Jeff Jewitt
Help need info and paws! Elite Table Comapny?From: r_odenbach@yahoo.com (Rion Odenbach) Hello, I'm in the process of refinishing a table. I don't know anything about antiques, but hopefully someone here can give me some info about this table and the parts I need. It has been painted over with three coats of latex paint, so getting those off has been a chore. The table is small, proably 4'x7'. It has two drop folding leaves. It has a single column in the center that has four radiating legs. The legs have ribs on them, and have caps on the end which are shaped like paws. Their is a drawer which pulls out of the side. The drawer is of dovetail construction, and has a pull on it which is the likeness of a lion. It really is an attractive table, but it is simple and not too fancy. There is an old decal inside the drawer that says, Elite Table Company, Jamestown New York. Unfortunately, it too was half covered by turquois paint, so I had to strip it off. Is this table worth anything? I don't expect that it is, but then again if it is, I may not want to use it in the kitchen. The metal paws that I referred to are badly rusted, do you know anyone who sells these? Thanks for any help. -Rion
Re: Help need info and paws! Elite Table Comapny?From: Jeff Jewitt As long as you take care of it -- enjoy using it wherever you want. Try Van Dyke Restorersw for the paws at 800-843-3320 Jeff Jewitt
water stains on walnut tableFrom: Nelson How do I remove water stains on a walnut side table. They are only droplet size but have made the surface the top look cloudy?
Re: water stains on walnut tableFrom: Jeff Jewitt If they're white, you can try several things,. 1. First of all do nothing. Many times they'll just disappear on there own. 2. If not try rubbing very lightly with some paste wax and 0000 steel wool. This will change the sheen slightly, so you may have to go back over the whole surface with the wax to get it to match 3. Put a small amount of alcohol on a clean cloth. Wad it up. It should feel as damp as a healthy dogs nose. Wipe back and forth very lightly. This may also change the sheen slightly, so waxing as explained above may be in order Jeff
Use of Glazes to Age FinishesFrom: Richard Pfeiffer (H18INDIA@AOL.COM) I build reproductions...On my normal finishes I use a Water based Analine Dye, sealed with shellac, then filled with paste filler, sealed with shellac again....Then Sanding Sealer 2 Coats and top coated with a mixture of Dull and Satin Lacquer (HLVP)....At what stage could a glaze be applied in this process to simulate "grime" and age on a pc? Also, what mixtures with the glaze.....(Japan Colors + Mineral Spirits????) Please reply.....Thank you, See you in Las Vegas?
GlazesFrom: Jeff Jewitt It depends on each finishers style , but normally to highlight wear and tear and the buildup of grime- its done yowards the end --- after you distress and before the final seal. In your schedule I'd try it before the final topcoats. If it looks artificial - try it after the first topcoat. The ratio I use depends on what I'm tyrying to do and how dark it is. Try a mixture of 50/50 japan/mineral spirits to start. You can substitute naphtha for a faster dry time. Let it fully dry overnight before the varnish topcoats Jeff Jewitt
spot repairFrom: JSzakal@aol.com How do you eliminate the halo in a spot repair. for example, filling in a small dent in the top of a laquered finish after sanding the repair and getting it smooth and level i spray the area with clear laquer which causes a halo in that spot. The halo can be eliminated by spraying the complete top. How can this be done without spraying the complete top. Rubbing combound does not eliminate the halo. Re: spot repairFrom: Jeff Jewitt You can "melt" the new lacquer into the old by spraying it with straight Butyl Cellosolve. You cab get this nasty stuff from Sherwin Williams Professional Stores. Another product which will work (though I've never used it) is Mohawks "blending" lacquer. They may call it something different, but ask them for the lacquer that melts new repairs into old. Please be aware that on high gloss surfaces (which show everything) it may be more efficient to spray the whole top rather than spending all the extra time fussing with getting the repaired area to blend in. Jeff 2 woodsFrom: Jeff Jewitt <<< The top and drawer are what apper to be mahogony, the frame and legs are a very light wood, ash? Now the question after ALL this sanding how can I stain/dye/varnish this desk so it is not two tone, and not too dark? product recommendations? >>> This is very common in production furniture. The wood used for the legs and other parts is probably poplar, gumwood, or birch. The way to refinish these items is to put a coat of sealer on the whole piece (assuming you want to keep the mahogany natural). This will give you an idea of the color to match. You generally apply a coat of pigmented stain to just the parts that need to be darker. You can tape it off if necessary. This is a process called glazing. Scuff the seal coat with 220 and then apply a dark stain (I like Bartleys -- but and pigment stain will work) get several colors so that you can apply a different color if nesessary. Let the stain dry - then put a coat of finish on it. If it looks right --- finish the whole piece. If not you can tone the parts to match the mahogany. Toners are available in aerosol lacquer form from Behlen. You can then coat over the whole piece with lacquer or shellac. Jeff siliconeFrom: lovejoy You can finish over silicone two ways, one that is the easiest is to use shellac as a sealer coat and then just finish over it. The other way involves a product that goes by several names depending what company you purchase it from. The one l use is called Fish Eye Flow out ,all you have to do is add a few drops to your finish and apply as usual. Chair GluingFrom: JPIVAK@worldnet.att.net (Jerry Pivak) Re; Restoration of chairs, specifically gluing. As a general rule of thumb when is the optimum time to re-glue a chair? I. Would it be in the "Winter" time, such as right now, when the wood is contracted and dry and the chair would be tight after gluing and clamping. But the expansion in humid hot weather would loosen, or crack, the new joints. II. Or "Summer" time when the air is humid and the chair's wood is expanded to its fullest. The gluing and clamping will catch the wood at it's peak expansion. But the contraction in dry cold conditions would allow the would joints to contract and perhaps crack the wood in other areas? |