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Re: still learning after 35 years

Posted By: James Schooley <furnitureissues@earthlink.net> (0-1pool246-80.nas2.sioux-city1.ia.us.da.qwest.net)
Date: 3/6/5 02:09

In Response To: Re: still learning after 35 years (Greg Scholl)

I have delt with this problem for the past thirty years. The only solution that I feel good about is complete disassembly and a reglue that involves exposing the wood inside the joint to fresh glue after a complete scraping off all the old glue. When dealing with original hide glue I will do as greg has suggested and drill into the pocket and using a metal glue syringe with a 3/32" point, inject fresh hot hide glue, into the joint. No other glue will reactivate the old glue. If the original assembler was slopy you could get one where the mortice in still fairly glue free, but without dissembly you won't be shure. I have had two chairs come back in all the years I have been at it, one was messed up by a flunkey I was trying to train the other was parts we didn't work on the first time. As for the tennon nails, I curse almost every day, I use a nail pliers. I got them from Van Dyke's, they cost about $30.00 and have paid for them selves many times over. With a 1/8" chisle, I put a tiny cut on each side of the finish nail and grip the nead firmly and wiggle and pry on the pry post that makes this tool really work. The nail almost always comes out, some I punch in or all the way through if the nail plyers won't work. After the chair is back together I cover the small dig marks with fill stick, this always works well. Lastly I have conduit tubes with sharpened ends oppsite wood block handels, with these I cut circular patches to go onto the end of the loose tennons so that they will fill the loose gaps I often run into. I take fine cotton cloth, fold it over eight times or so and twist the tube cutter back and forth till it goeg all the way through to the maple block I have underneath the cloth. Once I brush on glue with a flux brush, on all surfaces and the cotton swatch, I knock the parts back together with a rubber mallet and they are nice and tight. Now and then I use two swatches, and when very loose I wrap with a thin strip of walnut veneer, wrap that with a rubber band, and once a good tack has occured reassemble and clamp up. There can be fair money in chairs if you are good, but no short cuts can be used on good chairs, I don't mess with cheepies.

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