| View Thread | Return to Index | Read Prev Msg | Read Next Msg |


Re: floor refinishing

Posted By: James Schooley <furnitureissues@earthlink.net> (0-2pool241-178.nas2.sioux-city1.ia.us.da.qwest.net)
Date: 12/7/4 10:27

In Response To: floor refinishing (mark Reynolds)

First we should all hope that the floor had a good coat of shellac that protected it ftom the deep penetration of the paint traveling into all the little sratches and crevaces. I will always use a powerful metholenechloride stripper on a big painted project. I can't stick around forever waiting for some mamby pamby stripper to get going. Next I don't want to grind off this (lead) potentially toxic material and make a health hazard and get stuck with some hazmat type clean up over every Sq. inch of a big house. On an old pine floor I want to take a given workable area, depending on the conditions, like how tough is the old coating and how fast is my stripper. That way I will get the maximum effectiveness from my stripper. Get the 4x4 or what ever size is working to liquify as much as possible and make a good clean pass with a gentel putty knife, reapply immediately adding a heavier amount where needed. As the last of the paint starts to shift into a pliable state toss on some jointer chips and grind it into the groves and grain to loosen the remaining paint and soak up the last of the paint, remove all this mess. Put on some more jointer dust and wet this with a liquid stripper, so far you are using a paste stripper, grind this fresh slurry all around with a stiff bristle brush till the surface is clean or the dust is loaded and needs replacing. Continue removing the dust and placing it into a pail with a lid, and keep the lid on while working, remove the waste to an outdoor area after each session and dispose according to your local laws. Read and follow all label cautions, wear good safty gear, googles, gloves, vapor mask with appropiate rating, and vent the work area. Don't use a gas fired appliance while stripper fumes are present, a carbon monoxide alarm will tell you when the air is safe for closing the window, pets, kids, and the waterheater or furnace to return, to use the air safely. I will warm the work area to at least 75 degrees before starting as a cold surface works poorly, and a good scrubing and wet vac clean up with warm water will be a good idea, especially for tight grain woods like pine. Dry the wet area right away and bleach with oxalic acid if dark water stains are present. Hopefully you won't need to drum sand off the old look and if sanding is required remember that a buffer and scrubbubg pad can often do the job without loosing all the antique look.

Messages in This Thread

| View Thread | Return to Index | Read Prev Msg | Read Next Msg |

ANTIQUE FURNITURE RESTORATION DISCUSSION BOARD is maintained by Administrator with WebBBS 3.21.