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ANTIQUE FURNITURE RESTORATION DISCUSSION BOARD

Re: antique white sewing machine and cabinet

Posted By: James Schooley <furnitureissues@earthlink.net> (0-1pool247-217.nas2.sioux-city1.ia.us.da.qwest.net)
Date: 7/27/4 10:54

In Response To: antique white sewing machine and cabinet (Dana)

I think you are concerned that there are chips in the finished surface of the cabinet you have there. If that is the case then you may need to locate some veneer that will match, fairly closely, the color and hopefully the old finish as well. I save decent old veneer from items that I repair, using a new utility knife, I then cut a 'v' shape in both the scrap veneer and the repair surface. A template is very helpful here and you can make one from a piece of sheet metal or some can lid, that's not too hard to find. The veneer may come from a wreck piece or a helpful restorer. Clean out the dirt under the veneer where it is coming loose with a thin tool, or make one by flattening a wire with a hammer. Use a hide glue, a thin scrap of wood to clamp this all flat and wax paper to keep the glue from sticking to the clamping block. Sand or file a good veneer match into shape, when it fits perfectly, work the hide glue into the repair space and fit in the veneer and clamp it for several hours or until dry. You are allowed to peek under the clamp-pad after to check and see if all is right, and to wipe away the excess with some white venegar. The appliques can be repaired by making a mold from a decent spot with plaster of paris, protect the original surface with some wax. Remove the mold, when dry, and fill the space with resin putty. When the putty has become solid pop it out, and while the polymer has not fully cured, trim it with a knif so that it fits the missing area. You will need to trim both areas a little. When you have a good fit, glue the repair into place, once you have roughed up the back with sand paper, a resin glue may be best for this and that will require the wood to be dirt, finish , and old glue free. The poly repair may will need to be colored with some stain/finish with tinted finish, such as a colored lacquer. The touch-up should not be attempted until the finish has been thorughly cleaned with a mild soap and carefully dried. Using a paint thinner and 0000 steel wool, scrub off any old wax and oil from the finish. Paint thinner will also remove oil from the metal, don't use steel wool on any of the painted areas, and proceed cautiously where the nickel plate is concerned. When the finish is clean you will be able to hear your fingers squeak on the smooth finish. Once the new wood has been touched-up and had a day to dry, a toluene free wax may be applied, and buffed to a satin sheen with a clean cotton cloth.

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