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Re: picture frame molding

Posted By: Peter Dale (cache-df02.proxy.aol.com)
Date: 2/9/3 00:18

In Response To: picture frame molding (taylor)

Taylor, This is one of the easier restorations, once you know how to do it. You have to make a mold of an opposite corner, or the best looking one. Check with a local craft store and see what they offer in products to make a mold . There are three types you can use.Liquid Latex rubber applyed in layers with cotton swabs ,up to at least 12 applicationsfor thickness would be good. Pretend you are painting with a primer get the first and every suceeding layer on every nook and cranny,if you don't the finished mold will produce flawed results. Make sure you don't create air bubbles in the early applications. Apply about every 15-20 min or when the tip of the cotton swap cures to rubber. Cure time depends on temperature, the warmer the faster. In its liquid state latex is water soluable. DO NOT USE A BRUSH, the tip will turn into a rubber glob. Make sure the area you mold will cover the total area you want to fill. Molds can also be made with 2 part products that end up being flexible when cured. These products are mixed 50-50 and until you see a constant color( rather than a marbling (swirl) of the differant color of each part. This is a pricy product for this job but a good solution. If you don't have it locally, contact Van Dykes restorer catalog 1-800-558-1234 and ask for "SILPutty" it'll cost about $17.00 Plus Shipping etc. They also have the molding liquid latex(above) for $5.00 a pint( its plenty) The cheapest and maybe fastest is to use green floral clay, about $3.00 a brick(lb) at craft outlets. Heat enough clay to cover the area thickly to body temp -- up to 110degF.Take the warmed clay flatten one side and push the flat side into the area you are molding from making sure that the clay covers the whole area you want to copy.Now chill the whole item by putting it in the coolest place you can. The trick is to harden the clay mold so it can be taken off with the least disturbance to the impressed features.This works well as long as the features to be molded don't double over-- other wise you have to use one of the flexible ones. For the pour in fills that create the missing area ,you could use plaster or the newer Vinyl Spackling that comes in small tubs.P.S.Any of the green clay that is stuck on either the molded surface or the finished part can be removed with cotton swabs dipped in mineral spirits(paint brush cleaner) Good Luck. Peter Dale

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