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ANTIQUE FURNITURE RESTORATION DISCUSSION BOARD
Posted By: James Schooley <furnitureissues@earthlink.net> (0-1pool247-85.nas2.sioux-city1.ia.us.da.qwest.net)
In Response To: Additionally ... (Lindy)
Date: 8/19/5 23:55
I believe you have rearranged the finish. That product is intended to soften the finish and with careful application allow a dull rough finish to be cleaned of the old layer on the surface and appear clear and smooth again. the product requires measured use, and the finish can be damaged if judged improperly, as it won't work on just any finish. A shellac finish is best for this product as it is a re-amalgamator, and intended to allow the finish to dry clear and smooth by way of liquification and then solidification. You can sand the surface lightly with 320 grit open coat sand paper, dust clean and then apply more of the refinisher, with a fine hair brush, about 2" wide. Use the brush to wet the entire top, keeping it completely wet long enough to spread the entire top evenly once again. A large top will need to be done in sections of about 2 square feet at a time. If you have finished off the refinisher you can get more or make your own with 3 parts denatured alcohol and 1 part lacquer thinner. A fine mist spray bottle can be used with straight alcohol to hydrate the surface as you work. If the top layer is fairly old and dark you can pick up some of the old finish with the brush and then wipe it off into a can, (a wax on the finish may make this step nessecary) wet with fresh alcohol and lacquer thinner and then level the remaining finish by tipping off the surface with the very tip of the brush. A high quality fine sow bristle brush is needed here. Clean out the brush completely when finished with each step with lacquer thinner and wrap it in a clean paper to keep the hairs tight and trim. After 8 hours of drying, sand lightly with the 320 sand paper and begin coating with a dewaxed shellac. Once you have coated and sanded to a good build, and all is clear and smooth, wax for protection.
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