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Air Cleaner

From: Jim Talberg
Date: 22 Apr 1999
Time: 03:37:19
Remote Name: 208.212.12.120

Comments

In my shop we have been breathing saw dust for so long I think I am part wood. Does anyone recomend a good air cleaner?

Re: Air Cleaner

From: Lovejoy
Date: 22 May 1999
Time: 01:34:33
Remote Name: 207.61.113.62

Comments

Build your own, all you need is an old furnace blower, some plywood and a couple of washable furnace filters.I built one about two years ago and it moves ten times the air those 400cfm units do, total cost $ 60.00.

Another alternative

From: jim reed
Date: 08 Jul 1999
Time: 17:53:46
Remote Name: 12.6.40.2

Comments

Old mirrors are often restored by stripping. If the mirror cannot be spot resilvered, you can use paint remover to take it down to the glass. Add a new 1/4" mirror behind it and there you are. Poor man's fix.

Re: Another alternative

From: Jim Cole
Date: 08 Jul 1999
Time: 21:15:42
Remote Name: 207.238.55.90

Comments

Paint remover in most cases will not remove the silver from mirors. Toilet bowl cleaner will, but if you strip old silver be careful it is a hazardous waste and should be treated as such.

antique baby carriage wheels
From: Brian
Date: 25 Mar 1999
Time: 23:22:22
Remote Name: 206.230.1.102

Comments
I have in my shop a metal antique doll carriage. This item has sat in someones very warm atic for years and the rubber on the spoke wheels has flatened, just plain melted flat. All four. Does anyone have any idea where to locate replacement rubber?

Re: antique baby carriage wheels
From: Jim Cole
Date: 27 Mar 1999
Time: 14:29:41
Remote Name: 207.238.55.116

Comments
Pedal car restorers can tell you where to find retreads. Some of the old wheels can be retreaded with belting like that used for fan belts.

Re: antique baby carriage wheels
From: James
Date: 28 Mar 1999
Time: 18:56:28
Remote Name: 209.214.14.51

Comments
Eastwood phone number-1-800-345-1178

Re: antique baby carriage wheels
From: James
Date: 27 Mar 1999
Time: 17:04:08
Remote Name: 216.76.208.142

Comments
This question is asked once a month. You might give this a try. Eastwood tools (supplies for antique cars)sells a rubber material that is used in making replacement parts like brake pedals. It is mixed up and pours into a mold. Get a hose from the hardware store and make a mold(from art store)of half the tire. Make two halfs and glue them together using the same rubber material.

Re: antique baby carriage wheels

From: Jim Cole
Date: 29 Mar 1999
Time: 22:07:19
Remote Name: 207.238.55.111

Comments

Speedway Motors can make them if you send them a wheel for a go by. Call (402) 474-4411 and ask for pedal car division.

antique dresser

From: Lindy A.
Date: 29 Mar 1999
Time: 00:32:19
Remote Name: 216.178.132.106

Comments

I realize this is primarily antique restoration site; however, I am looking for a starting point on the value of a dresser I have owned for 41 years.

My mother purchased it for me when I was a baby at an antique auction in Maine. I am in Texas (which is not the antique capital of the USA). All I have been able to learn is that it was made by a furniture company in Maine during the civil war period (which was only in business for 10 - 15 years (as evidenced by the manner it was made). It has a full length/tilt type beveled glass mirror with beautiful carving surrounding it. The dresser drawers as assembled in a unusual way...instead being dove tailed, there are a series of semi-circles with a peg in the center of each (this is how the idenity of the Maine furniture maker was make). All drawers have working metal keyhole/assembly's. The dresser has various other carving on it, two large bottom drawers, with two offset smaller top drawers, the full length mirror sitting to the left them of the smaller drawers (directly over the larger bottom drawers.

There are no scratchs or mars of any type on this dresser.

My problem is that I want an appraisal done, and what I have heard from two people in Texas are so far apart in amount that I don't trust either one of them. Can anyone on this site lead me to a reputable antique furniture appraiser in Texas. I live in Waco, which is 100 miles south of Dallas & 100 miles north of Austin.

I would certainly appreciate any help that those of you on this site can give.

Lindy Ausburne forlynn@texasinternet.com

Re: antique dresser

From: Jim Cole
Date: 29 Mar 1999
Time: 22:15:56
Remote Name: 207.238.55.111

Comments

I would suggest you check the yellow pages for a certified antique appraiser and talk to them. The drawer construction you describe was quite common after about 1870 when a patent was granted for the machine to make them.

Antique Frame restoration

From: Richard Spevak
Date: 18 Mar 1999
Time: 18:01:51
Remote Name: 12.13.226.14

Comments

My wife and I started rennovating antique about 1 and 1/2 years ago. While we still have much to learn we put out a good commercial product. These are commonly the 16 x 20 inch sight window with about a 5 inch width of frame material. When a frame is complete we usually place a nice reproduction Victorian print in them. Usually are priced around 95 to 125 dollars. We feel these are well worth the money but have had small success selling them at the antique mall in Park City which is a suburb of Wichita Ks, as well as a downtown antique mall in Wichita. We would really appreciate some suggestions on how to market and sell these at a more rapid pace. We also do the same with wall and pier mirrors.

Re: Antique Frame restoration

From: George Utley
Date: 19 Mar 1999
Time: 02:55:26
Remote Name: 207.78.186.102

Comments

Richard, in your position I would seriously consider marketing the availability of your products to interior decorators. Ask around. There are bound to be some in a city the size of Wichita who favor the era you're representing. A do-it-yourself brochure with picture, which can be done on your computer, would be an economical way to start (mailing), followed by a call for an appointment.

antique ice cream parlor chairs with pressed wood seats

From: J.N.
Date: 20 Jul 1999
Time: 15:42:00
Remote Name: 12.79.166.75

Comments

I am looking for a supplier of pressed wood seats, help!

Re: antique ice cream parlor chairs with pressed wood seats

From: George Utley
Date: 21 Jul 1999
Time: 14:12:29
Remote Name: 207.78.186.173

Comments

Haven't checked their latest catalog, but Van Dyke's may have what you need. Go to vandykes.com and order their catalog - it's free.

Antique or not

From: Ron Johnson
Date: 04 Jul 1999
Time: 03:17:52
Remote Name: 209.32.187.32

Comments

Could you tell me what makes a piece of furniture an antique or not. I had posted earlier about an old bedroom set we had been given by an old friend. Her father was 94 when he passed away recently and had puchased the set, in used condition, when he was first married (26). They estimated the set to be about 75 to 100 years old. If this is the case, is it an antique, would we keep more of its value if we just cleaned it? It has not been cleaned or even dusted for years, but was in there bedroom an well proctectd.

Thanks

Ron

Re: Antique or not

From: Jim Cole
Date: 04 Jul 1999
Time: 12:12:57
Remote Name: 207.238.55.101

Comments

That is a tough question to answer. Ask a dozen people and you are apt to get twenty answers. I usually sitck with the legal definition of 100 years old. As to whether or not refinishing will hurt the value vs. cleaning, it will depend mostly on the basic value of the furniture. Strange as it may seem the better the piece the more refinishing will hurt it's value. The other consideration is the use of the piece if you can't use it like it is then what value does it have. Unless the set was made by a famous name I don't think you would seriously harm the avalue by refinishing, but if can clean the pieces and maybe paste wax them for a little renewed shine and protection that would be the best route to go.

Antique spool bed

From: lwhiteaker@carolnet.com
Date: 12 Jul 1999
Time: 23:54:30
Remote Name: 209.126.116.140

Comments

I am searching for directions on how to rope an antique spool bed. This information is for a historical society located in a small town.

Re: Antique spool bed

From: Jim Cole
Date: 13 Jul 1999
Time: 21:17:14
Remote Name: 207.238.55.187

Comments

You should have posts or holes in a regular patter on the side rails, head and foot board the rope should be woven in a square patter with a stick or dowel at the foot that you twist a loop of rope to tighten the entire bed. Be careful not to pull rope too tight and damage the bed.

Antique Wood Propeller

From: Gus Granneman
Date: 14 Apr 1999
Time: 11:44:52
Remote Name: 204.141.107.107

Comments

I have a wood propeller that, although the wood is in very good condition, the red tape on the ends of the propeller is dirty and on one end scratched and frayed. I have been told two things: 1) clean the tape, but do not replace it or 2) totally replace the tape (all sides?). Looking for some advice on which to do. Thanks.

Re: Antique Wood Propeller
From: Jim Cole
Date: 14 Apr 1999
Time: 20:22:35
Remote Name: 207.238.55.113

Comments
If you can get original tape go ahead and replace it. Otherwise cle

Awful smell on chairs
From: Jesse K. Allen

Comments
I was recently given 2 beautiful chairs. One a windsor high back, and the other a small colonial rocker. The finish is in tact and beautiful, but they have and AWEFUL urine smell permiating from them. I was wondering if you could tell me if there is a product out there which would remove this smell?

Re: Awful smell on chairs
From: Jim Cole

Comments
I have never found anything but time to cure the type of odor you are talking about. Best bet is to put them outside preferably under a roof or awning where they will be shaded a fan on low may help speed the process. Some people swear that fabic deodorant like Fabreeze works but I have not had a chance to try it. If you use something like that try it first in a concealed spot to see if it will damage the finish.l

Art Frame Suppies
From: Bill ie: custumb940@aol.com

Comments
The more I work on gilded frames the more I finding Iam in need of suppies that I can not find. For example, Iam working on a frame that is missing a few pieces that look like a poly type materal. ie; beading on the inside and outside of the frame. I"ve tried to make molds but can not get the detail Iam looking for. Does anyone know who sells these things?

Re: Art Frame Suppies
From: James

Comments
Try Goldleaf.net
an it and leave it.

roll-top desk
From: Lynne Cox
Comments
Once the burlap was removed from the roll-top slats, a newspaper dated July 1, 1917 was found underneath, perhaps having once been a repair itself? Should we remove the newspaper as well? Is there any value in preserving it as it is? I read the comments about using duck cloth, etc. Not sure how I should proceed with my desk. Have never had it appraised. Thank you.

Re: roll-top desk
From: Jeff Jewitt
Comments
This may be a more romantic notion, but sometimes the amkers of furniture -- in a whimsical mood- will place artifacts indicating the date within the piece. I've inlaind coins in my own furiture. I'd keep the paper with the piece-- but now exposed to air and light it may degrade rapidly. I use canvas for my roll-top repairs --

Re: roll-top desk
From: jim cole
Comments
I'm not sure that the newspaper would have any value as I cannot remember anthing of great historicla signicance happennig that day. I would probably just leave it in the desk for someone else to find the next time it needs repair. If the finish is in good condition I would only make the repair to the rolltop then enjoy it.

Re: roll-top desk
From: Lynne Cox
Comments
Underneath the newspaper, best we can tell without taking off all the paper, is a flour sack. Would it still be best just to repair the roll-top with canvas and leave the sack and paper on underneath? I appreciate your guidance!

Round glass
From: LauraB laurab@columbus.rr.com
Comments
Hi, >I am looking for someone that carries glass for a antique china cabinet >which is rounded. If you know of anyone, I could contact I would be >appreciative...Laura

Re: Round glass
From: RichBix
Comments
Another source : VanDykes 800.558.1234 24/7 good luck,
assuming u meant bent/bow glass, however they also provide other glass w shapes

Re: Round glass
From: Jeff Jewitt
Comments
I'm assumming you mean curved glass B&L Antiqurie in Michigan carries many stock radii. They are also able to make a custom radius 1-800-840-1110
You will need to make a template to send them. Just trace the edge profile of a good one (hope you have a good one) and send it to them
Jeff Jewitt

Re: Round glass
From: James
Comments
I have found that there are glass shops in every major city that do " bent glass ". You can call around and maybe find one close to you. Or call: Hudson Glass 1-800-431-2964 219 North Division St. Peekskill, NY 10566-2700

Re: Round glass
From: Elderly
Comments
Onley Illinois, Onely glass. Bent glass for anything.

Bun Feet
From: eliott@ix.netcom.com
Comments
I am looking for a good supplier of furniture comp- onents, especially bun feet. Any advice? Thanks so much...Jerry Stephenson

Re: Bun Feet
From: jim cole
Comments
Try Vandykes at their page VanDykes.com

Re: Bun Feet
From: mst@mindspring.com
Comments
I am a rep .. i carry a line of imported and domestically made bun fett etc

Re: Bun Feet
From: RichBix
Comments
Also try Adams 423-587.2942 prob. a little cheaper than vandykes

dating old furniture
From: Joan
Comments
Can anyone recommend some reading material that would help me date antique furniture from the tools and materials used? For exampled; when plywood became common as drawer bottoms, circular saw or bandsaws used in milling the lumber, machine planer marks, etc.

Re: dating old furniture
From: James
Comments
One book I found to be good is "Discovering and Restoring Antique Furniture" by Michael Bennett

Re: dating old furniture
From: WhiteAAC@aol.com
Comments
A good book "Miller's Furniture antique checklist' isbn 0 85533 889 x published by Mitchell Beazley

Re: dating old furniture
From: RichBix
Comments
Hi Joan, Hang it in this area too. I did not know u were one of us. Believe me u won't find all u want i 1 place. The Jenkins book is great but limited. Bishops is an old paperback I bought 20 yrs ago and continue to occas. refer.

Re: dating old furniture
From: Joan
Comments
Thanks Rich I'll give these books a look. If I can't find all the info in one place, I think I will just draw up my own timeline chart from facts I gather and hang it on the wall of my shop for easy reference. Joan

Re: dating old furniture
From: RichBix
Comments
Joan, there are so many sources--be more particular-what is your level of experience? perhaps these two would be easy reading for starters "Emyl Jenkins guide" 1991 and Robert Bishop "How to know Amer. Ant...."
Good luck & if u find it all in one place (re your inquiry) please LET ME KNOW

Re: dating old furniture
From: jim cole
Comments
Try amazon.com they have good selection of books that will give you basis for starting to identify pieces. Beyond that go to dealers in your area and ask them to help you date pieces, some will be very helpful some will not you will have to figure out which ones are good thats why you need to do a little homework before you start.

Chesterfield Sofa and chairs !!
From: peter.bohn@icl.se
Date: 16 Mar 1999
Comments
I wounder how much is the second hand value of a 3-sit sofa and two 1-sit sofa. The classic style with buttons in red leather. I have not yet found these itmes yet, but I have to have some pointers to go after. And of course it depends on the quality.

Re: Chesterfield Sofa and chairs !!
From: jim cole
Date: 16 Mar 1999
Comments
You might try searching the web for antique dealer sites and see if you can find any online or post questions to the dealers and see if they have any what price they are asking.

serpentine drawer front replacement
From: lontique@aol.com
Date: 11 Mar 1999
Comments
need to find resourse to buy a serpentine draw front for an old bird eye maple dresser.i can get the veneer but can't find the large pre fab front.it has to be 39" or larger long.also does any one know a resonable resource for heavy birdseye maple veneer.

Re: serpentine drawer front replacement
From: George
Date: 13 Mar 1999
Comments
Your chances of finding an existing match for the drawer front range from slim to none. You can try the antique dealers in the area (if you haven't already), but you'd get faster action by having it made.

Re: serpentine drawer front replacement
From: Elderly
Date: 14 May 1999
Comments
Ill make it. How much money you want to spend?

musty smell in wood furniture
From: Chris
Date: 09 Mar 1999
Comments
Around Thanksgiving I bought an oak buffet (or server?) that was said to be from the 1920s. I use it in the dining room. It has that musty smell that I love so much in antique stores but I'm not so crazy about it in my house! It's not terribly strong but it's there. I wiped down the inside of the piece with a rag I'd dunked in bleach-and-water, and I left the doors and drawers open to air out for several days before putting dishes and tablecloths inside. But after three months the smell is still there. How can I eliminate the smell? (What about the new odor-eliminating product called Febreeze? It's labeled only for fabrics. Would it work on wood, and would it harm the wood?) Thank you!

Re: musty smell in wood furniture
From: Jim Cole
Date: 09 Mar 1999
Comments
Try putting dryer sheets in the drawers and cabinets. If that doesn't work VanDykes sell a concentrated deodorizer. You can get their catalogue through their web site: VanDykes.com

Re: musty smell in wood furniture
From: Greliche-Germany
Date: 20 Jun 1999
Comments
godd old Bi-carb will probably work - either sprinkled dry here and there - or dissolved in water and wipe insides and the backboards on the outside. It amazing what one can do with bicarb!

Pocket doors
From: chandy@gte.net
Date: 07 Mar 1999
Comments
Our victorian home was built in 1889 and there is a pocket door between the dining room and the front parlor. The current door is one door rather than two that meet in the middle (obviously replaced). The runners/sliding mechanism is still intact on both sides. We are interested in locating doors to replace this one. Any suggestions on where to find old pocket doors and anyone who is familiar with their installation?

Thanks for your help.

Chandy

Re: Pocket doors
From: Jim Cole
Date: 09 Mar 1999
Time: 22:43:47
Remote Name: 207.238.55.215

Comments
Check in your area for architectural salvage dealers. If you can't find any in your area get a copy of "The Old House Journal" they usually have some advertised in there.

Re: Pocket doors
From: cats@southwind.net
Date: 29 Mar 1999
Time: 03:12:01
Remote Name: 206.53.120.13

Comments
I have a set of pocket doors from a house that may be as old as yours. They have all the hardware & it works. If you're interested, let me know.

Re: Pocket doors
From: HeartiGal@aol.com
Date: 29 May 1999
Time: 18:25:13
Remote Name: 152.163.195.176

Comments
We have aquired an 1908 farmhouse and have two sets of pocket doors. We are very curious how to adjust them so they will not scratch our newly refinished hardwood floors. Thanks.

zdena vydra
From:
Date: 03 Mar 1999
Time: 14:35:28
Remote Name: 208.214.178.28

Comments
I am restoring a wooden trunk and I am looking for some catalog with hardware. Can you advise?

Re: zdena vydra
From: Joan
Date: 04 Mar 1999
Time: 05:25:28
Remote Name: 207.227.15.108

Comments
VanDykes. Order their free catalog at their website: www.VanDykes.com

I.D. FURNITURE FROM GRANDPARENTS AND GREAT GRANDPARENTS
From: NANCY
Date: 28 Feb 1999
Time: 23:17:36
Remote Name: 12.70.16.85

Comments
I HAVE A COLLECTION OF 1920-1940 PIECES OF BEDROOM AND DINING FURNITURE FROM BOTH SETS OF GRANDPARENTS(ALL DECEASED). I HAVE FOUND NO MARKINGS BUT SOME NUMBERS. I WOULD LIKE TO ID THESE PIECES AND THEN CLEAN THEM WITHOUT DAMAGING THE REAL FINISH. I HAVE SEEN SEVERAL FORMULAS FOR CLEANING BUT AM SCARED TO USE THEM FOR FEAR IT WOULD BE THE WRONG FORMULA FOR THAT PIECE. I HAVE SEACHED THE LIBRARY AND NOT BEEN ABLE TO ID ANY PIECE. I DO KNOW APPROXIMATELY WHEN THEY WERE PURCHASED. I WOULD BE WILLING TO PHOTO ALL PIECES FOR AN EXPERT TO HELP ME ID. AND THEN RECOMMEND A CLEANING PROCESS. THESE PIECES DO NOT NEED TO BE STRIPPED AND I PREFER NOT TO DESTROY THE PATINA BY DOING SOMETHING WRONG. NANCY

Re: I.D. FURNITURE FROM GRANDPARENTS AND GREAT GRANDPARENTS
From: George Utley - gtu@buggs.net
Date: 02 Mar 1999
Time: 06:18:25
Remote Name: 207.78.186.60

Comments
I don't know of any cured finish that can be damaged by cleaning with naptha. It's what I use in my shop all the time. It is highly flammable, however, so be careful. I don't know how much help I could be in identifying your pieces, but if you care to send them, I'll be glad to look. My email address is posted.

Refinishing antique "spindle" bed
From: nest512@aol.com
Date: 27 Feb 1999
Time: 23:41:26
Remote Name: 205.188.192.49

Comments
I recently inherited a spindle bed - a simply designed bed frame with knobs from which a canvas sheet with twine loops was attached. The finish on the bed is virtually nonexistent. I have two questions: Will refinishing the bed reduce any value the bed might have? What is an appropriate finish for the bed? (I don't know what type of wood it is) Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Re: Refinishing antique "spindle" bed
From: Jim Cole
Date: 02 Mar 1999
Time: 14:18:47
Remote Name: 207.238.55.102

Comments
Whether or not to refinish will depend on what the oringinal finish is and your personal use. If the bed has milk paint on it I would not refinish just clean and paste wax it. If it is an old clear finish go ahead and refinish.

Old Painted Bedroom Set
From: nanhoo@aol.com
Date: 27 Feb 1999
Time: 23:14:23
Remote Name: 152.163.207.183

Comments
I have an old bedroom set that is painted. The bed has been lengthened to accomadate a regular mattress and is a 3/4 size bed. My question is will it hurt the value (if any) if I repaint it? The old paint is crackled and getting chipped and worn in spots. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks, Nancy

Re: Old Painted Bedroom Set
From: George Utley - gtu@buggs.net
Date: 02 Mar 1999
Time: 06:13:44
Remote Name: 207.78.186.60

Comments
Nancy - Any value the bed might have had was lost when the bed was altered. Paint away!

Marble Top / Victorian Washstand
From: SEL62572@AOL.com
Date: 27 Feb 1999
Time: 21:28:47
Remote Name: 152.163.197.63

Comments
We are restoring an 1880's Victorian washstand, and are looking for safe, effective ways to bring the marble top back to life. Very good shape, just dull and dirty from 30 years of storage.
Re: Marble Top / Victorian Washstand
From: George Utley - gtu@buggs.net
Date: 02 Mar 1999
Time: 06:11:45
Remote Name: 207.78.186.60

Comments
Fill a pie tin with a layer of salt. Cut a grapefruit in half, dip it in the salt and rub the marble briskly in the direction of the grain. Wipe clean with a water-dampened rag. If the marble can be cleaned, this will do it.

Paint removal
From: Len Nosal (scalefreal@aol.com)
Date: 27 Feb 1999
Time: 17:02:11
Remote Name: 152.163.207.68

Comments
This isn't really a furniture question but I couldn't find a more appropriate Q&A site. I have an antique candy scale, a Wrigley Jr. specifically, which at some time was overpainted with black paint. I would like to carefully remove this newer paint to try to reveal whatever oriiginal graphics might still exist underneath. What's the best way to do this? The paint seems unaffected by alcohol and hardly affected by lacquer thinner. Is there a way to use a stripper and control it's action so as not to go too far?

Re: Paint removal
From: Jim Cole
Date: 02 Mar 1999
Time: 14:30:40
Remote Name: 207.238.55.102

Comments
Len chances are that the original paint on your scale is baked enamel and you can strip down to it without haming it with canned stripper if you work with it and remove the black paint as soon as it begins to soften. The graphics are another problem entirely as many of these were painted over the base coat or were stencils. It is difficult if not impossible to remove overpaint and not take the graphics with it. Some stencils have been reproduced and you may be able to find replacements for them, but the scale will loose some of its value. Hope this helps you.

refinishing cedar table --March 27
From: Pete Callesen
Date: 05 Apr 1999
Time: 03:28:04
Remote Name: 204.201.38.179

Comments
The cedar table is a yellow alaska cedar and the people want to bring it back to the yellow hue that is was finished in originally. The table is undercover and gets no direct sunlight. Were you recommending a tung oil? Thanks

Re: refinishing cedar table --March 27
From: Jim Cole
Date: 05 Apr 1999
Time: 23:55:15
Remote Name: 207.238.55.188

Comments
I was not recommending a tongue oil finish, just an oil wax combo that will keep water from penetrating into the wood. You say the table is under cover and will get no direct sunlight. That will help precerve the finish but it will probably still need to be redone in a few years. good luck

How to refinish an antique iron bed???
From: Blake
Date: 06 Apr 1999
Time: 20:34:35
Remote Name: 199.174.169.198

Comments
I have come across an old iron bed that has been painted. The painted has almost all flaked off on it's own. My question is, how should I remove the remaining paint and do most people repaint them? If so, does it require a primer coat? If so, what do I use? Thanks

Re: How to refinish an antique iron bed???
From: Jim Cole
Date: 06 Apr 1999
Time: 20:54:46
Remote Name: 207.238.55.121

Comments
Most of these beds were originally painted. The best process is to have the bed sandblasted then prime with automotive primer and wet sand with 400 grit wet/dry paper. Then topcoat with a colored lacquer wet sanding between coats with 400 wet/dry paper until you get a very smooth finish then top coat with clear lacquer with about 10% color mixed with it, this will give a nice gloss with plenty of depth. You can use either nitrocelulose lacquer or an acrylic lacquer
Re: How to refinish an antique iron bed???
From: jim reed, 110117.2065@compuserve.com
Date: 07 Apr 1999
Time: 16:38:58
Remote Name: 12.6.40.2

Comments
Probably a LEAD based paint, be careful. If you do not like the sandblasting idea, use an electric drill with wire brush attachment to strip and Rustoleum (primer & color) to repaint.

How to refinish an antique iron bed???
From: Blake
Date: 06 Apr 1999
Time: 20:35:26
Remote Name: 199.174.169.198

Comments
I have come across an old iron bed that has been painted. The painted has almost all flaked off on it's own. My question is, how should I remove the remaining paint and do most people repaint them? If so, does it require a primer coat? If so, what do I use? Thanks

refinishing cedar table --March 27
From: Pete Callesen
Date: 05 Apr 1999
Time: 03:28:04
Remote Name: 204.201.38.179

Comments
The cedar table is a yellow alaska cedar and the people want to bring it back to the yellow hue that is was finished in originally. The table is undercover and gets no direct sunlight. Were you recommending a tung oil? Thanks

Re: refinishing cedar table --March 27
From: Jim Cole
Date: 05 Apr 1999
Time: 23:55:15
Remote Name: 207.238.55.188

Comments
I was not recommending a tongue oil finish, just an oil wax combo that will keep water from penetrating into the wood. You say the table is under cover and will get no direct sunlight. That will help precerve the finish but it will probably still need to be redone in a few years. good luck

Pine Stain Formula
From: donnamc@ix.netcom.com
Date: 01 Apr 1999
Time: 20:53:44
Remote Name: 198.211.136.100

Comments
Could someone provide me with a stain or stain formula for simulating the look of old, nicely aged pine for new pine. I am building a house and using all pine doors, windows & beams and want them to look very old. Thanks!

Re: Pine Stain Formula
From: jin cole
Date: 02 Apr 1999
Time: 23:11:11
Remote Name: 207.238.55.82

Comments
First seal the pine with a light coat of one lb. cut shellac then stain with a color you like after trying on scraps then appply an additional coat of shellac to seal and varnish over it until you reach the finish level you want.

Re: Pine Stain Formula
From: donnamc@ix.netcom.com
Date: 03 Apr 1999
Time: 14:05:29
Remote Name: 204.32.173.47

Comments
Jim, thanks for the reply. What does the shellac do? Does it give the pine an aged look? As to stain colors, about the only color combo that I know of that might give it the right color is a red mahogany or a mahogany with red umber mixed in. Any other suggestions, I would like to keep it fairly simple because all of the interior doors in the house and cabinetry will be stained in the same manner. If I have to tell my painters that they must shellac everything first, they are going to have a hissy! Thanks for any follow-up info.

Re: Pine Stain Formula
From: jim cole
Date: 03 Apr 1999
Time: 20:57:38
Remote Name: 207.238.55.109

Comments
the shellac will help to control the stain so that it will cover more evenly, pine tends to blotch if you put stain on it bare. The shellac will also add depth and a little color if you use orange shellac.

Re: Leather replacement for table top
From: George
Date: 02 Apr 1999
Time: 05:14:47
Remote Name: 207.78.186.139

Comments
I can personally suggest enthusiastically Van Dykes. Go to their website (vandykes.com) click on catalog and fill out the form to order one (free). Thye have a great selection of restoration and refinishing materials.

Leather replacement for table top
From: bstj@usit.net
Date: 01 Apr 1999
Time: 02:48:24
Remote Name: 209.213.175.148

Comments
Could you please tell me where I can purchase replacement leather for a table. I need the name of a supplier so I can do-it-yourself fix. Thanks bstj

Re: Leather replacement for table top
From: James
Date: 01 Apr 1999
Time: 03:20:05
Remote Name: 216.76.209.13

Comments
Leather embossers are listed on this web site:

http://antiquerestorers.com/Member/jewelry_repair.htm#LEATHER EMBOSSING AND REPLACEMENT

sterling flatwear
From: vicki kasperek
Date: 31 Mar 1999
Time: 01:21:38
Remote Name: 209.215.55.168

Comments
How do I restore the heavy black oxidation to estate pieces of sterling flatwear that appear to have been cleaned by dipping? The oxidation adds so much to the appearance.

Re: sterling flatwear
From: jim reed, 110117.2065@compuserve.com
Date: 07 Apr 1999
Time: 16:36:33
Remote Name: 12.6.40.2

Comments
I would clean with Wright's polish to remove any coating or residue. Lay them out on newspaper, lightly covered with one sheet. They should tarnish quite well in a few weeks.

pine cupboard
From: marylc@dycon.com
Date: 29 Mar 1999
Time: 23:17:01
Remote Name: 12.13.145.231

Comments
I have an old pine cupboard I believe to date about 1850.I recently noticed some insect damage to the inside of the back.It seems to be confined to one board running from top to bottom.It is an open tunneling effect like termite damage but there is no evidence of termites.How do I go about treating this? Thank you
Re: pine cupboard
From: Jim Cole
Date: 31 Mar 1999
Time: 02:18:09
Remote Name: 207.238.55.79

Comments
First check to see if you have live insects. One good way to do this is to check under cabinet and inside for fresh sawdust. If you have live bugs I would suggest you call a pro exterminator.

antique dresser
From: Lindy A.
Date: 29 Mar 1999
Time: 00:32:19
Remote Name: 216.178.132.106

Comments
I realize this is primarily antique restoration site; however, I am looking for a starting point on the value of a dresser I have owned for 41 years.

My mother purchased it for me when I was a baby at an antique auction in Maine. I am in Texas (which is not the antique capital of the USA). All I have been able to learn is that it was made by a furniture company in Maine during the civil war period (which was only in business for 10 - 15 years (as evidenced by the manner it was made). It has a full length/tilt type beveled glass mirror with beautiful carving surrounding it. The dresser drawers as assembled in a unusual way...instead being dove tailed, there are a series of semi-circles with a peg in the center of each (this is how the idenity of the Maine furniture maker was make). All drawers have working metal keyhole/assembly's. The dresser has various other carving on it, two large bottom drawers, with two offset smaller top drawers, the full length mirror sitting to the left them of the smaller drawers (directly over the larger bottom drawers.

There are no scratchs or mars of any type on this dresser.

My problem is that I want an appraisal done, and what I have heard from two people in Texas are so far apart in amount that I don't trust either one of them. Can anyone on this site lead me to a reputable antique furniture appraiser in Texas. I live in Waco, which is 100 miles south of Dallas & 100 miles north of Austin.

I would certainly appreciate any help that those of you on this site can give.

Lindy Ausburne forlynn@texasinternet.com

Re: antique dresser
From: Jim Cole
Date: 29 Mar 1999
Time: 22:15:56
Remote Name: 207.238.55.111

Comments
I would suggest you check the yellow pages for a certified antique appraiser and talk to them. The drawer construction you describe was quite common after about 1870 when a patent was granted for the machine to make them.

trunk
From: Napolean13@msn.com
Date: 28 Mar 1999
Time: 19:00:09
Remote Name: 63.11.62.136

Comments
I had posted problem with trunk. I need to replicate the material against the frame. Please tell me where i can research this info. is it possible to post a picture of the trunk? this would help whoever to id the material. there was no reply to my 1st post (Restore Trunk)

Re: trunk
From: Jim Cole
Date: 29 Mar 1999
Time: 22:09:35
Remote Name: 207.238.55.111

Comments
If you will e-mail me picture jac111@new-vista1.com I will try to help you.

Re: trunk
From: Napolean13@msn.com
Date: 25 Apr 1999
Time: 19:53:30
Remote Name: 63.11.60.211

Comments
Had problems with server. Have sent picture. Have you gotten it yet?

Re: trunk
From: jjkernell
Date: 30 May 1999
Time: 21:02:51
Remote Name: 205.188.199.39

Comments
I would like to know where you obtained the Charlotte Ford trunk catalog. I am also resoring an old trunk. Sorry I can't help with the fabric problem; we have some fabric on ours also, and are trying to decide whether to keep it or replace it.

finishing a cedar table
From: Pete Callesen
Date: 27 Mar 1999
Time: 05:08:18
Remote Name: 209.214.13.91

Comments
I need info on finishing a cedar table. Do you need to seal the wood with a sealer before final coat of spar varnish( outdoor table) to prevent the oils coming through the finish and eventually ruining the finish? Thanks for your help and any suggestions including the final finish.

Re: finishing a cedar table
From: Jim Cole
Date: 27 Mar 1999
Time: 14:26:21
Remote Name: 207.238.55.116

Comments
If you are going to varnish the table thin the first two coats 50% so they will soak in and seal the wood. Be prepared to recoat every year or two as UV will degrade the varnish. A better choice might be to oil the table or put nothing at all on it the cedar will turn a nice grey with age.

antique baby carriage wheels
From: Brian
Date: 25 Mar 1999
Time: 23:22:22
Remote Name: 206.230.1.102

Comments
I have in my shop a metal antique doll carriage. This item has sat in someones very warm atic for years and the rubber on the spoke wheels has flatened, just plain melted flat. All four. Does anyone have any idea where to locate replacement rubber?

Re: antique baby carriage wheels
From: Jim Cole
Date: 27 Mar 1999
Time: 14:29:41
Remote Name: 207.238.55.116

Comments
Pedal car restorers can tell you where to find retreads. Some of the old wheels can be retreaded with belting like that used for fan belts.

Re: antique baby carriage wheels
From: James
Date: 27 Mar 1999
Time: 17:04:08
Remote Name: 216.76.208.142

Comments
This question is asked once a month. You might give this a try. Eastwood tools (supplies for antique cars)sells a rubber material that is used in making replacement parts like brake pedals. It is mixed up and pours into a mold. Get a hose from the hardware store and make a mold(from art store)of half the tire. Make two halfs and glue them together using the same rubber material.

Re: antique baby carriage wheels

From: James
Date: 28 Mar 1999
Time: 18:56:28
Remote Name: 209.214.14.51

Comments
Eastwood phone number-1-800-345-1178

Re: antique baby carriage wheels
From: Jim Cole
Date: 29 Mar 1999
Time: 22:07:19
Remote Name: 207.238.55.111

Comments
Speedway Motors can make them if you send them a wheel for a go by. Call (402) 474-4411 and ask for pedal car division
Molded plaster frame
From: G. Jolly
Date: 25 Mar 1999
Time: 12:36:07
Remote Name: 150.216.60.28

Comments
I would like to repair and stabilize a mirror frame that consists of molded plaster (?) on a wooden base. A piece of the molding has broken off, and there are many narrow cracks 1/2-1 inch apart all around the frame. The corners are separating, and the molding there is chipped. The finish is a red undercoat with a worn and dulled gilt over that. The mirror is in pretty good condition. At some time, several grocery bags were cut open and glued to the back. I have not tried to remove those, so I don't know what the back looks like. 1: What do I use to reattach the molding that has broken off? 2: How do I repair the corners? 3: How do I handle the finish? 4: What do I do about the many small cracks? Thank you for any advice.

Re: Molded plaster frame
From: James
Date: 27 Mar 1999
Time: 17:18:02
Remote Name: 216.76.208.142

Comments
I'm always concerned and worried about telling people on a message board how to do a complicated restore on a gilded frame. There are a 100 ways to ruin it. You could shore up the large cracks with wood glue.

Re: Molded plaster frame
From: Lovejoy
Date: 22 May 1999
Time: 01:10:40
Remote Name: 207.61.113.62

Comments
There should be several messages in the archive dealing with frame repairs, I believe they were posted back in february.

stripping
From: Thome
Date: 25 Mar 1999
Time: 04:13:00
Remote Name: 205.188.199.31

Comments
I have a very old table that I bought at a garage sale, I'm not sure if it is an antique or not. It has about 4 or 5 layers of paint on it, I'm using a water-soluble stripper, and it takes the first two or three layers off quite nicely, the problem is that there is this layer of gray paint that hs been set on there so long that it is practiclly i the grain of the wood. If you can't tell I'm new at this, this table is my first project, I was wondering if there was any way to get the paint off without sanding down the wood cause that's the only way I can get it off, I'm open to any and all suggestions. Thanks!

Re: stripping
From: James
Date: 27 Mar 1999
Time: 17:11:39
Remote Name: 216.76.208.142

Comments
Use a stronger paint remover. Or take it to a srip shop.

Brass Cleaning
From: Mike Stevens (michael.stevens@capitalone.com)
Date: 24 Mar 1999
Time: 14:11:20
Remote Name: 199.244.214.130

Comments
I recently purchased a solid brasss hearth set at auction. It has a number of green and brown marks which I would like to remove. I believe the green is from old cleaning fluid and the brown is corrosion (very minor). Can anyone give me some advice on how I should remove this?

Re: Brass Cleaning
From: James
Date: 27 Mar 1999
Time: 17:09:41
Remote Name: 216.76.208.142

Comments
Try ammonia and water (half and half). Test a small section first

paint removal from cracks in wash stand
From: Jenny
Date: 23 Mar 1999
Time: 06:59:39
Remote Name: 139.134.161.93

Comments
I am doing my first restoration work on an old marble top washstand. I've removed the top layers of paint but cannot get to the paint that is left in the little cracks and grooves of the wood. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated by this beginner.
Re: paint removal from cracks in wash stand
From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 24 Mar 1999
Time: 03:04:50
Remote Name: 209.57.71.65

Comments
Re-wet with stripper and let it sit a bit then use a fine brass bristle brush to scrub the paint out

Jeff Jewitt

cleaning a dining room set
From: Diane DeFreese
Date: 23 Mar 1999
Time: 04:19:13
Remote Name: 209.214.13.208

Comments
We are interested in information about cleaning a dining room set we just bought that is golden mahogany duncan phife. Table, chairs, china cabinet, and buffet.

Re: cleaning a dining room set
From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 24 Mar 1999
Time: 03:06:06
Remote Name: 209.57.71.65

Comments
If you access the articles form the Home page of this forum you will find an article titled Saving the Finish that will give you the specifics of cleaning

Jeff Jewitt

karen boles
From: Toy
Date: 23 Mar 1999
Time: 04:00:04
Remote Name: 209.214.13.208

Comments
hi ,i have a cast iron pull toy from the first 100 years of the u s it needs a paint job what can i do for it ?
Re: karen boles
From: richbix
Date: 28 Mar 1999
Time: 14:32:55
Remote Name: 209.239.164.32

Comments
do nothing til u understand what u have. I guess a piece like this will have "nothing" done to it a nu paint job, NOT

governor winthrop desk ca. 1900
From: slarsen
Date: 22 Mar 1999
Time: 19:14:34
Remote Name: 152.163.195.182

Comments
I have a gov. winthrop desk from early 1900's and would like to find out more about it. It has double bowed front and claw feet and I think it is walnut wood. The finish is original and in good condition. Is there a reference (book or web) for this age furniture?

Re: governor winthrop desk ca. 1900
From: George
Date: 31 Mar 1999
Time: 02:55:04
Remote Name: 207.78.186.102

Comments
Depending on your location your local library would probably be the best place to start> if they don't have a reference book in stock, they may be able to get one on loan from another library in your state.

Re: Nichols & Stone maple windsors
From: George
Date: 04 May 1999
Time: 04:15:25
Remote Name: 207.78.186.99

Comments
If the chairs are maple, you can probably sand them out - maple doesn't have that much grain. Th end grain or turns in the spindles may be tedious, but it can be done.

Nichols & Stone maple windsors
From: Liz
Date: 03 May 1999
Time: 21:41:44
Remote Name: 153.34.67.38

Comments
I recently purchased some Nichols and Stone maple windsors that had been painted wedgewood blue. I obvioulsy bit off more than I wanted to chew. when I got home I realied that the chairs had been origanally black. The paint stripped off without a problem. However, there is residue of black paint in the grain that I can't get out. The stripper wouldn't remove it. What should I try next. I put a little bleach (Clorox) it didn't work. If I use a wood bleach, will it lighten the wood too much. I wanted a maple finish on these chairs. I will I have to settle for walnut?

Re: pine trim finish
From: George
Date: 30 Apr 1999
Time: 14:09:38
Remote Name: 207.78.186.29

Comments
Mike: The finish you describe was typical in many homes in the South. As recently as the 1950's pine cabinetry (in the kitchen) and pine trim finished with amber shellac (for the color) was quite popular. You did get lucky, however. Many painters (in the 50's at least) top coated the shellac with varnish for durability - that's a little more involved when it comes to removal.

pine trim finish
From: mike vagher
Date: 28 Apr 1999
Time: 17:47:43
Remote Name: 205.175.225.5

Comments
I have an old victorian house with southern yellow pine trim and doors. In two rooms the finish was a dark reddish-brown which obscured the grain. I was able to remove it easily with denatured alcohol and it seemed to have a darker layer on top with an amber layer below and I assume both layers were shellac with the top layer being a darker grade of shellac. Is this the correct assumption? Was this a common practice? It was too dark for my taste and will likely just finish with amber shellac but I am curious as to the original method.

Re: What about fumigation??
From: Jim Cole
Date: 26 Apr 1999
Time: 21:26:13
Remote Name: 207.238.55.98

Comments
If in doubt call the bug man and have them check the piece.

What about fumigation??
From: hud@ra.msstate.edu
Date: 26 Apr 1999
Time: 16:27:53
Remote Name: 130.18.112.110

Comments
My wife and I purchased an old pine safe over the weekend. It has a small area of what could be insect damage on one board. We don't want to leave it in the garage, but should we take any precautions before bringing it inside our house. The dealer says he always fumigates everything, but who knows??
Re: Old tin
From: Jim Cole
Date: 26 Apr 1999
Time: 21:24:24
Remote Name: 207.238.55.98

Comments
Souds like you need to strip the tin in order to get it clean. Us a good grade of stripper and wipe it off with paper towel or rags rather that scrape it off. A good quality clear lacquer can be sprayed on over the tin to reduce corosion.

Old tin
From: bobnjill@gfherald.infi.net
Date: 26 Apr 1999
Time: 16:04:01
Remote Name: 208.131.229.24

Comments
I have an old, oak trunk that I just purchased and the lid was covered with tin. The tin is still in very good condition except for being dirty, and it also has some old paint and varnish drippings on it. What would be the best way to clean the lid without marring the tin? Thanks for the help.

Grandpa's steamer trunk
From: Kyle Thomas
Date: 24 Apr 1999
Time: 23:56:37
Remote Name: 209.214.188.77

Comments
The panels are very rusty. Looks like they're made out of tin. There are wooden slats on the outside that I would like to restore as well. I don't want to make it look "like new", but I would like to try to remove some of the rust. Should I used naval jelly for the rust. And if I do should I be careful not to get it on the wood slats? My mom just started sanding the WHOLE thing the other day and I felt this was the wrong thing to do. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Kyle

Re: Slipper chair
From: Jim Cole
Date: 23 Apr 1999
Time: 21:48:29
Remote Name: 207.238.55.119

Comments
They could have a good value but is very had to determine without seeing them. You can take them to a local dealer and tell them up front that you want a guestimate of value and are not interested in selling them and you may get a good answer or find a certified apraiser and pay them for an apraisal. I would not do anything to them without checking on value first.

Slipper chair
From: R Anderson
Date: 23 Apr 1999
Time: 15:14:50
Remote Name: 152.163.207.209

Comments
My daughter inherited two "slipper chairs" from her great grandmother. She wants to attempt to re-upholster them herself. They are in excellent condition, ornately carved. Do they have any value other than sentimentall? If they might, I will suggest that she allow me to pay for them to be professionally upholstered. Thank you for your help.

Air Cleaner
From: Jim Trilling
Date: 22 Apr 1999
Comments
In my shop we have been breathing saw dust for so long I think I am part wood. Does anyone recomend a good air cleaner? trilling@briefcase.com

Re: Air Cleaner
From: Lovejoy
Date: 22 May 1999
Comments
Build your own, all you need is an old furnace blower, some plywood and a couple of washable furnace filters.I built one about two years ago and it moves ten times the air those 400cfm units do, total cost $ 60.00.

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Last changed: July 25, 1999
Mahagony Dresser
From: S.Carla
Date: 21 Apr 1999
Time: 01:39:57
Remote Name: 152.163.205.69

Comments
I have an old Mahagony Dresser which has a white film over a good part of it. It doesn't appear to be a stain from anything having dropped on it, but rather from it just being old. I used a product made by Howard, which I applied with a steel wool pad, to clean it up. It worked beautifully when I did it and most of the white film disappeared. However, after several weeks the film slowly reappeared and is all back. Does anyone have any idea how I can clean this dresser up and get rid of the film without having to sand it down to the wood and re-stain it?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Last changed: July 25, 1999
Re: Question on Gilded Frames
From: Jim Cole
Date: 20 Apr 1999
Time: 22:26:24
Remote Name: 207.238.55.120

Comments
Ed go to the home page and scroll down to the gilders forum and post your question there. They should be able to help you.

Question on Gilded Frames
From: Ed Fleming
Date: 20 Apr 1999
Time: 19:31:52
Remote Name: 192.223.210.68

Comments
I'd like to know how to tell whether a composition/plaster frame was originally gilded, or finished with powder or gold paint. Also, what books are recommended on repairing these type of frames, including building new molded components to replace missing or broken ones.

Thanks!

Re: Sewing machine
From: jim cole
Date: 19 Apr 1999
Time: 20:30:38
Remote Name: 207.238.55.97

Comments
Sewing machines in this area (central NC) usually sell in the 200-250 price range. A cabinet that needs much work can rapidly exceed this amount. I would suggest that you find a local restorer and take it in for a price quote.

Sewing machine
From: Debbie
Date: 19 Apr 1999
Time: 04:11:49
Remote Name: 205.188.198.178

Comments
I have an old Singer from the late 1800's in pretty bad condition. I would really like to have it restored. How can I find out if it is worth restoring other than for sentimental value, i.e., how much will I need to spend? I would like it to have a nice appearance and maintain its value (if any). Thanks

Re: Restore Mirror
From: James
Date: 19 Apr 1999
Time: 16:00:00
Remote Name: 209.214.15.206

Comments
Some mirrors are more valuable left alone and not to disturb the patina. The first step is to determine if it would hurt the value of the antique. If it is decided that it won't than remove the mirror from the frame and pore some muriatic acid on it to remove the silver. Take it to a glass shop and have another mirror cut to the same size. Place the new mirror behind the old and reinstall it into the frame. This a cheap way to restore ( $10 )a mirror.

Restore Mirror
From: Maria Kart
Date: 19 Apr 1999
Time: 03:15:19
Remote Name: 209.214.13.185

Comments
I purchased a mirror which used to be attached to a dresser, but is now just a piece to hand on the wall. It was inexpensive, and I wish to restore it. The wood is in good shape with ornamentation, and the glass on the mirror is beveled, which leads me to believe it is worth restoring. How can I refinish the mirror, as there are areas of it that have been damaged from the rear of the mirror which cast a shadow on the front, leaving an unclear image. Thanks.

Antique Writing Desk/Cabinet
From: heather2@itlnet.net
Date: 18 Apr 1999
Time: 21:17:42
Remote Name: 206.155.251.145

Comments
I have an old writing desk/cabinet. On the back is stamped Walsh Brothers and Adair, ??. I have looked everywhere trying to find the dates the company was in business, and what quality of furniture they produced. Please e-mail me if you have heard of this company.

Re: where to find
From: Jim Cole
Date: 18 Apr 1999
Time: 19:46:48
Remote Name: 207.238.55.122

Comments
As far as I know they are still in business and located in the Cleveland Ohio area you should be able to find them by checking a manufacturers directory.

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Last changed: July 25, 1999
where to find
From: Redden
Date: 18 Apr 1999
Time: 19:29:05
Remote Name: 206.230.1.102

Comments
Anyone have any idea if James B.Day lacquer is still made and where to find it? thankyou

Picture frame re-gilding
From: Robert Daw
Date: 17 Apr 1999
Time: 23:07:54
Remote Name: 205.188.199.33

Comments
I have been restoring furniture for some time, and will be adding frame repair and re-gilding to my services. I need to set rates for gilding. I have been told that the going rate was $5 per inch a few years ago. (South Florida) Any suggestions?

SERPENTINE DRAWER FRONT
From: CLEMENS
Date: 16 Apr 1999
Time: 19:02:55
Remote Name: 206.173.69.95

Comments
ANY GOOD CABINET MAKER WORKING IN WOOD WILL BE ABLE TO MAKE A REPLACEMENT FRONT FROM ANOTHER DRAWER SAMPLE. THE IMPACT ON TEH VALUE OF THE PIECE OF FURNITURE IS NO MORE THAN AN OLD REPLACEMENT FRONT WHICH WILL BE IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND.

MUSTY ODOR
From: CLEMENS
Date: 16 Apr 1999
Time: 18:59:46
Remote Name: 206.173.69.95

Comments
PERSISTANT ODOR USUALLY ARE EMITTED BY THE UNFINISHED SURFACES OF WOODEN FURNITURE, I.E. INSIDE CARCASSE, UNDERSIDE OF DRAWERS, ETC. MASKING AGENTS LIKE DEODORIZERS WILL NOT DO. PERMANENT CURE IS TO SEAL THE ODOR AWAY. THE EASIEST AND SAFEST WAY TO DO AT HOME IS WITH SHELLAC. THERE ARE PRODUCTS LIKE "BULLS EYE SPRAY SHELLAC" IN CANS AVAILABLE IN HARWARE STORES. SOLVENT IS ALCOHOL, SO APPLICATION IS RECOMENDED OUTSIDE. PROTECT FINISHED SURFACES,COVER ALL RAW WOOD SURFACES WITH EVEN SPRAY FILM. MIGHT HAVE TO APPLY TWICE. THIS SHOULD CURE THE PROBLEM PERMANTLY. GOOD LUCK! :-)

Rocking Chair I.D.
From: kels529@AOL.com
Date: 16 Apr 1999
Time: 15:26:08
Remote Name: 205.188.199.182

Comments
I recently acquired a rocking chair that looks very old. On the underneath are written on numbers and an engraved marking. The marking is an outline of a chair with an N on top and an S underneath it. Can anyone tell me about this chair. It's black and I've tried all kinds of strippers, but none of them seem to work.
Re: rubbing out varnish
From: Lovejoy
Date: 22 May 1999
Time: 01:28:19
Remote Name: 207.61.113.62

Comments
How many coats of varnish have you put on? If you have used multiple coats of varnish, the lines you see are most likely where you have rubbed through one coat into another, this usually is only viable when you are trying for a high gloss finish.

Re: rubbing out varnish
From: Jim Cole
Date: 15 Apr 1999
Time: 19:46:57
Remote Name: 207.238.55.105

Comments
What kind of paper are you using? CAMI 400 grit should not leave lines. P 400 will leave visible lines. Your problem could also be in application or prep. If you are brushing you may not be getting good flow out. If you are getting scratches from the paper wait longer for the finish to harden 3-4 days for deft a week for varnish. Use plenty of water and change paper frequently to avoid build up on the paper which can cause scratches.

rubbing out varnish
From: Pete Callesen
Date: 14 Apr 1999
Time: 23:10:20
Remote Name: 204.201.38.166

Comments
I need info on how to rub out varnish. I tried 400 grit sandpaper and water-then steelwool and rottenstone. When the light hit it just right, you could see lines. The same thing happens when I try to rub out Deft. My problem on the finish is the nibs. Thanks, Pete

Re: Squeaky bed
From: Jim Cole
Date: 14 Apr 1999
Time: 20:20:34
Remote Name: 207.238.55.113

Comments
Try paste wax, but don't expect any great results. You may want to check into replacing the hanger parts. It sounds like they may be worn.

Squeaky bed
From: Jim (Jaspell@aol.com)
Date: 14 Apr 1999
Time: 02:49:33
Remote Name: 204.60.11.58

Comments
I have a circa 1900 feathercarved mahagony bed which my wife and I love. Unfortunately, the bed squeaks something fierce where the siderails join the headboard and footboard. I tighten up the connections with limited (and short lasting) success. Any ideas on what to use to lubricate the bed or silence it in some other fashion?

Info needed...
From: Fred
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Time: 12:13:15
Remote Name: 152.163.213.64

Comments
Hello...I have been trying find some history info on a couple of antique tables and a desk I have. I would believe one table is from late 1800 and the other is from early 1900. Both have been in the family for last 60 years, that I know off. I'm from NJ. They could be from Philly, PA, NY or Conn. Desk also same era and area. Does anybody know where on line could I find some history help about these tables.

Re: Berkey & Gay Court Cupboard
From: Jim Cole
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Time: 21:07:47
Remote Name: 207.238.55.185

Comments
Please post url for photo. That always helps.

Berkey & Gay Court Cupboard
From: Karen Sanders
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Time: 11:25:56
Remote Name: 209.2.250.13

Comments
I have a B&G Court Cupboard which has painted? glass doors with a wood panel behind them. My problem is that the paint which has a wrinkled texture is beginning to flake around the edges and I'd like to stop this before it goes any further. Any ideas or experience. I can post a url for a picture if that will help. THANKS

Re: Warped oak pedestal table
From: Lovejoy
Date: 22 May 1999
Time: 01:20:41
Remote Name: 207.61.113.62

Comments
I agree with Jim, but I would let the table warp back a little in the opposite direction, sometimes if you let it warp back just till it's flat, when it dries enough to finish it sometimes results in a slight warp. If you let it warp the opposite way about 20%, then let it dry it should pull level and stay that way.

Re: Warped oak pedestal table
From: Jim Cole
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Time: 21:06:12
Remote Name: 207.238.55.185

Comments
Remove the top remove any finish from the underside place top over wet newspaper in the sun bottom side down. This should swell the wood on the bottom flattening the top. Once the top is flat you should finish the bottom with the same amount and kind of finish as the top side so that it will take and give up moisture evenly to prevent it rewarping.

Warped oak pedestal table
From: Rebecca
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Time: 00:33:11
Remote Name: 153.37.114.206

Comments
We own an antique round oak pedestal table which is warped down on two sides (you can put a glass on the edge of the table and it could slide off). Is this repairable, and how?

Re: desk side hinges
From: Jim Cole
Date: 12 Apr 1999
Time: 20:44:15
Remote Name: 207.238.55.100

Comments
I think VanDykes has them see their web site at: VanDykes.com

desk side hinges
From: susan
Date: 11 Apr 1999
Time: 23:30:54
Remote Name: 208.161.23.136

Comments
I am looking for two side hinges for a Governor Winthrop desk. They need two holes in each arm about 13/16th of an inch apart. Can you help with a purchase source.

Re: Art Frame Suppies
From: James
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Time: 10:36:13
Remote Name: 209.214.12.152

Comments
Try Goldleaf.net

Art Frame Suppies
From: Bill ie: custumb840@aol.com
Date: 11 Apr 1999
Time: 22:27:55
Remote Name: 205.188.200.34

Comments
The more I work on gilded frames the more I finding Iam in need of suppies that I can not find. For example, Iam working on a frame that is missing a few pieces that look like a poly type materal. ie; beading on the inside and outside of the frame. I"ve tried to make molds but can not get the detail Iam looking for. Does anyone know who sells these things?

Re: restoring/preserving decals beneath shellac
From: SYSTEMATIC CONTENTS SERV.
Date: 16 Apr 1999
Time: 19:30:00
Remote Name: 206.173.69.95

Comments
SHELLAC IS DISSOLVED BY METHYLATED ALCOHOL. NAPHTA IS A EFFECTIVE AND SAVE "GRIME REMOVER'. IF THE DECALS ARE STILL NOT READABLE, IT IS PROBABLY DUE TO THE DARKENING OF THE SHELLAC LAYER. ONLY A PARTIAL OR WHOLE REMOVAL OF THE SHELLAC WILL HELP.

Re: restoring/preserving decals beneath shellac
From: Jim Cole
Date: 11 Apr 1999
Time: 12:14:08
Remote Name: 207.238.55.116

Comments
If soap and Alcohol have failed to clean the finish I would try a 50-50 mix of lacquer thinner and alcohol. This will clean rapidly, but will also remove decals unless you work carefully. Replacemnt decals are available for most of these pieces.

restoring/preserving decals beneath shellac
From: Mike Taraszki
Date: 11 Apr 1999
Time: 01:28:04
Remote Name: 168.75.98.40

Comments
I have a spool cabinet with what looks like a shellac finish and very difficult-to-read decals on the drawer fronts. I'd like to clean the drawer fronts to make the decals more readable and I am tempted to remove the overlying finish in a way that will not harm the decals. I've tried soapy water (Murphys' oil soap) and rubbing alcohol (carefully) but I can't seem to get the decal letters to show through the grime. Any ideas?

Re: Replacing mesh web support netting underneath sofa cushions
From: Jim Cole
Date: 11 Apr 1999
Time: 12:09:58
Remote Name: 207.238.55.116

Comments
You mite try VanDykes they have a web site VanDykes.com

Replacing mesh web support netting underneath sofa cushions
From: Rick Elverson (rbelverson@aol.com)
Date: 10 Apr 1999
Time: 21:43:32
Remote Name: 152.163.213.48

Comments
We recently had sofa, chair and footstool recovered and wanted to get the web support which holds up the cushions and people on the sofa replaced. The company that did the work said that they could not find a manufacture or similar material. I think they didn't look hard enough and am out searching the web looking for advice. The cushions on the sofa can be totally removed and then after flipping the cushion guard cloth forward, the web mesh that support the cushions is totally exposed. It appears to be made of a non-metallic material with some type of coating on it. I would like to find some type of suitable replacement. Can you help?

Re: refinishing a dresser
From: SYSTEMATIC CONTENTS SERVICE
Date: 16 Apr 1999
Time: 19:24:20
Remote Name: 206.173.69.95

Comments
YOU WILL HAVE A VERY HARD TIME TO FIND HARDWARE TO MATCH THE EXISTING ONE. AN EASY SOLUTION IS TO BUY AN EPOXY CASTING SET AT AN ART STORE AND CAST A REPRODUCTION FROM AN EXISTING ONE. IT CAN BE EALILY FINISHED TO PRODUCE A GODD COLOR MATCH. GOOD LUCK

refinishing a dresser
From: aimee
Date: 09 Apr 1999
Time: 22:14:12
Remote Name: 208.253.66.192

Comments
I could you use some advice on locating 2 handles for a dresser I'm refinishing. I'm stripping off many layers of paint. I pulled out one of the locks on the drawer and found a list of patent dates the last being April 18, 1885. The plate that rests against the drawer feels like tin and the handle attached is much heavier. This is my first real project(meaning with a piece that I care about) I'm not sure how to finish it once I get all of the paint off either. There are so many books listed on this sight. Can you recommend one or two for beginners on technique and identifying what it would have looked like originally? thanks

Re: KRAUSS 750
From: George
Date: 08 Apr 1999
Time: 03:23:47
Remote Name: 207.78.186.94

Comments
For anyone else who may be inetersted, Krauss furniture is made at the amana Colonies in Iowa. Go to http://amanacolonies.com for further

KRAUSS 750
From: dandras@mobiletel.com
Date: 07 Apr 1999
Time: 00:22:49
Remote Name: 206.251.167.43

Comments
I have a vanity/mirror/drawer unit that has Krauss 750 stenciled on the back. Any one knows the orgin of the manufacture and the time period this piece was in production. It looks fairly old and in good shape. Please email me directly at dandras@mobiletel.com

How to refinish an antique iron bed???
From: Blake
Date: 06 Apr 1999
Time: 20:35:26
Remote Name: 199.174.169.198

Comments
I have come across an old iron bed that has been painted. The painted has almost all flaked off on it's own. My question is, how should I remove the remaining paint and do most people repaint them? If so, does it require a primer coat? If so, what do I use? Thanks

How to refinish an antique iron bed???
From: Blake
Date: 06 Apr 1999
Time: 20:34:35
Remote Name: 199.174.169.198

Comments
I have come across an old iron bed that has been painted. The painted has almost all flaked off on it's own. My question is, how should I remove the remaining paint and do most people repaint them? If so, does it require a primer coat? If so, what do I use? Thanks
Re: How to refinish an antique iron bed???
From: Jim Cole
Date: 06 Apr 1999
Time: 20:54:46
Remote Name: 207.238.55.121

Comments
Most of these beds were originally painted. The best process is to have the bed sandblasted then prime with automotive primer and wet sand with 400 grit wet/dry paper. Then topcoat with a colored lacquer wet sanding between coats with 400 wet/dry paper until you get a very smooth finish then top coat with clear lacquer with about 10% color mixed with it, this will give a nice gloss with plenty of depth. You can use either nitrocelulose lacquer or an acrylic lacquer

Re: How to refinish an antique iron bed???
From: jim reed, 110117.2065@compuserve.com
Date: 07 Apr 1999
Time: 16:38:58
Remote Name: 12.6.40.2

Comments
Probably a LEAD based paint, be careful. If you do not like the sandblasting idea, use an electric drill with wire brush attachment to strip and Rustoleum (primer & color) to repaint.

Re: Picture frame re-gilding
From: Jim Cole
Date: 18 Apr 1999
Time: 19:43:09
Remote Name: 207.238.55.122

Comments
Robert if you are running a shop please email me at : jac111@new-=vista1.com
Picture frame re-gilding
From: Robert Daw
Date: 17 Apr 1999
Time: 23:07:54
Remote Name: 205.188.199.33

Comments
I have been restoring furniture for some time, and will be adding frame repair and re-gilding to my services. I need to set rates for gilding. I have been told that the going rate was $5 per inch a few years ago. (South Florida) Any suggestions?

Re: where to find
From: Jim Cole
Date: 18 Apr 1999
Time: 19:46:48
Remote Name: 207.238.55.122

Comments
As far as I know they are still in business and located in the Cleveland Ohio area you should be able to find them by checking a manufacturers directory.

where to find
From: Redden
Date: 18 Apr 1999
Time: 19:29:05
Remote Name: 206.230.1.102

Comments
Anyone have any idea if James B.Day lacquer is still made and where to find it? thankyou

Re: Restore Mirror
From: James
Date: 19 Apr 1999
Time: 16:00:00
Remote Name: 209.214.15.206

Comments
Some mirrors are more valuable left alone and not to disturb the patina. The first step is to determine if it would hurt the value of the antique. If it is decided that it won't than remove the mirror from the frame and pore some muriatic acid on it to remove the silver. Take it to a glass shop and have another mirror cut to the same size. Place the new mirror behind the old and reinstall it into the frame. This a cheap way to restore ( $10 )a mirror.

Restore Mirror
From: Maria Kart
Date: 19 Apr 1999
Time: 03:15:19
Remote Name: 209.214.13.185

Comments
I purchased a mirror which used to be attached to a dresser, but is now just a piece to hand on the wall. It was inexpensive, and I wish to restore it. The wood is in good shape with ornamentation, and the glass on the mirror is beveled, which leads me to believe it is worth restoring. How can I refinish the mirror, as there are areas of it that have been damaged from the rear of the mirror which cast a shadow on the front, leaving an unclear image. Thanks.

Re: Sewing machine
From: jim cole
Date: 19 Apr 1999
Time: 20:30:38
Remote Name: 207.238.55.97

Comments
Sewing machines in this area (central NC) usually sell in the 200-250 price range. A cabinet that needs much work can rapidly exceed this amount. I would suggest that you find a local restorer and take it in for a price quote.

Sewing machine
From: Debbie
Date: 19 Apr 1999
Time: 04:11:49
Remote Name: 205.188.198.178

Comments
I have an old Singer from the late 1800's in pretty bad condition. I would really like to have it restored. How can I find out if it is worth restoring other than for sentimental value, i.e., how much will I need to spend? I would like it to have a nice appearance and maintain its value (if any). Thanks

Re: Question on Gilded Frames
From: Jim Cole
Date: 20 Apr 1999
Time: 22:26:24
Remote Name: 207.238.55.120

Comments
Ed go to the home page and scroll down to the gilders forum and post your question there. They should be able to help you.

Question on Gilded Frames
From: Ed Fleming
Date: 20 Apr 1999
Time: 19:31:52
Remote Name: 192.223.210.68

Comments
I'd like to know how to tell whether a composition/plaster frame was originally gilded, or finished with powder or gold paint. Also, what books are recommended on repairing these type of frames, including building new molded components to replace missing or broken ones.

Re: Slipper chair
From: Jim Cole
Date: 23 Apr 1999
Time: 21:48:29
Remote Name: 207.238.55.119

Comments
They could have a good value but is very had to determine without seeing them. You can take them to a local dealer and tell them up front that you want a guestimate of value and are not interested in selling them and you may get a good answer or find a certified apraiser and pay them for an apraisal. I would not do anything to them without checking on value first.

Slipper chair
From: R Anderson
Date: 23 Apr 1999
Time: 15:14:50
Remote Name: 152.163.207.209

Comments
My daughter inherited two "slipper chairs" from her great grandmother. She wants to attempt to re-upholster them herself. They are in excellent condition, ornately carved. Do they have any value other than sentimentall? If they might, I will suggest that she allow me to pay for them to be professionally upholstered. Thank you for your help.

Re: Old tin
From: Jim Cole
Date: 26 Apr 1999
Time: 21:24:24
Remote Name: 207.238.55.98

Comments
Souds like you need to strip the tin in order to get it clean. Us a good grade of stripper and wipe it off with paper towel or rags rather that scrape it off. A good quality clear lacquer can be sprayed on over the tin to reduce corosion.

Old tin
From: bobnjill@gfherald.infi.net
Date: 26 Apr 1999
Time: 16:04:01
Remote Name: 208.131.229.24

Comments
I have an old, oak trunk that I just purchased and the lid was covered with tin. The tin is still in very good condition except for being dirty, and it also has some old paint and varnish drippings on it. What would be the best way to clean the lid without marring the tin? Thanks for the help.

Re: What about fumigation??
From: Jim Cole
Date: 26 Apr 1999
Time: 21:26:13
Remote Name: 207.238.55.98

Comments
If in doubt call the bug man and have them check the piece.
What about fumigation??
From: hud@ra.msstate.edu
Date: 26 Apr 1999
Time: 16:27:53
Remote Name: 130.18.112.110

Comments
My wife and I purchased an old pine safe over the weekend. It has a small area of what could be insect damage on one board. We don't want to leave it in the garage, but should we take any precautions before bringing it inside our house. The dealer says he always fumigates everything, but who knows??

Re: pine trim finish
From: George
Date: 30 Apr 1999
Time: 14:09:38
Remote Name: 207.78.186.29

Comments
Mike: The finish you describe was typical in many homes in the South. As recently as the 1950's pine cabinetry (in the kitchen) and pine trim finished with amber shellac (for the color) was quite popular. You did get lucky, however. Many painters (in the 50's at least) top coated the shellac with varnish for durability - that's a little more involved when it comes to removal.

pine trim finish
From: mike vagher
Date: 28 Apr 1999
Time: 17:47:43
Remote Name: 205.175.225.5

Comments
I have an old victorian house with southern yellow pine trim and doors. In two rooms the finish was a dark reddish-brown which obscured the grain. I was able to remove it easily with denatured alcohol and it seemed to have a darker layer on top with an amber layer below and I assume both layers were shellac with the top layer being a darker grade of shellac. Is this the correct assumption? Was this a common practice? It was too dark for my taste and will likely just finish with amber shellac but I am curious as to the original method.

Re: Replacing mesh web support netting underneath sofa cushions
From: Jim Cole
Date: 11 Apr 1999
Time: 12:09:58
Remote Name: 207.238.55.116

Comments
You mite try VanDykes they have a web site VanDykes.com
Replacing mesh web support netting underneath sofa cushions
From: Rick Elverson (rbelverson@aol.com)
Date: 10 Apr 1999
Time: 21:43:32
Remote Name: 152.163.213.48

Comments
We recently had sofa, chair and footstool recovered and wanted to get the web support which holds up the cushions and people on the sofa replaced. The company that did the work said that they could not find a manufacture or similar material. I think they didn't look hard enough and am out searching the web looking for advice. The cushions on the sofa can be totally removed and then after flipping the cushion guard cloth forward, the web mesh that support the cushions is totally exposed. It appears to be made of a non-metallic material with some type of coating on it. I would like to find some type of suitable replacement. Can you help?

Re: restoring/preserving decals beneath shellac
From: Jim Cole
Date: 11 Apr 1999
Time: 12:14:08
Remote Name: 207.238.55.116

Comments
If soap and Alcohol have failed to clean the finish I would try a 50-50 mix of lacquer thinner and alcohol. This will clean rapidly, but will also remove decals unless you work carefully. Replacemnt decals are available for most of these pieces.

Re: restoring/preserving decals beneath shellac

From: SYSTEMATIC CONTENTS SERV.
Date: 16 Apr 1999
Time: 19:30:00
Remote Name: 206.173.69.95

Comments

SHELLAC IS DISSOLVED BY METHYLATED ALCOHOL. NAPHTA IS A EFFECTIVE AND SAVE "GRIME REMOVER'. IF THE DECALS ARE STILL NOT READABLE, IT IS PROBABLY DUE TO THE DARKENING OF THE SHELLAC LAYER. ONLY A PARTIAL OR WHOLE REMOVAL OF THE SHELLAC WILL HELP.

restoring/preserving decals beneath shellac
From: Mike Taraszki
Date: 11 Apr 1999
Time: 01:28:04
Remote Name: 168.75.98.40

Comments
I have a spool cabinet with what looks like a shellac finish and very difficult-to-read decals on the drawer fronts. I'd like to clean the drawer fronts to make the decals more readable and I am tempted to remove the overlying finish in a way that will not harm the decals. I've tried soapy water (Murphys' oil soap) and rubbing alcohol (carefully) but I can't seem to get the decal letters to show through the grime. Any ideas?

Re: Art Frame Suppies
From: James
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Time: 10:36:13
Remote Name: 209.214.12.152

Comments
Try Goldleaf.net
Art Frame Suppies
From: Bill ie: custumb840@aol.com
Date: 11 Apr 1999
Time: 22:27:55
Remote Name: 205.188.200.34

Comments
The more I work on gilded frames the more I finding Iam in need of suppies that I can not find. For example, Iam working on a frame that is missing a few pieces that look like a poly type materal. ie; beading on the inside and outside of the frame. I"ve tried to make molds but can not get the detail Iam looking for. Does anyone know who sells these things?

Re: desk side hinges
From: Jim Cole
Date: 12 Apr 1999
Time: 20:44:15
Remote Name: 207.238.55.100

Comments
I think VanDykes has them see their web site at: VanDykes.com
desk side hinges
From: susan
Date: 11 Apr 1999
Time: 23:30:54
Remote Name: 208.161.23.136

Comments
I am looking for two side hinges for a Governor Winthrop desk. They need two holes in each arm about 13/16th of an inch apart. Can you help with a purchase source.

Re: Warped oak pedestal table
From: Jim Cole
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Time: 21:06:12
Remote Name: 207.238.55.185

Comments
Remove the top remove any finish from the underside place top over wet newspaper in the sun bottom side down. This should swell the wood on the bottom flattening the top. Once the top is flat you should finish the bottom with the same amount and kind of finish as the top side so that it will take and give up moisture evenly to prevent it rewarping.

Warped oak pedestal table
From: Rebecca
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Time: 00:33:11
Remote Name: 153.37.114.206

Comments
We own an antique round oak pedestal table which is warped down on two sides (you can put a glass on the edge of the table and it could slide off). Is this repairable, and how?

Re: Berkey & Gay Court Cupboard
From: Jim Cole
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Time: 21:07:47
Remote Name: 207.238.55.185

Comments
Please post url for photo. That always helps.
Berkey & Gay Court Cupboard
From: Karen Sanders
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Time: 11:25:56
Remote Name: 209.2.250.13

Comments
I have a B&G Court Cupboard which has painted? glass doors with a wood panel behind them. My problem is that the paint which has a wrinkled texture is beginning to flake around the edges and I'd like to stop this before it goes any further. Any ideas or experience. I can post a url for a picture if that will help. THANKS

Squeaky bed
From: Jim (Jaspell@aol.com)
Date: 14 Apr 1999
Comments
I have a circa 1900 feathercarved mahagony bed which my wife and I love. Unfortunately, the bed squeaks something fierce where the siderails join the headboard and footboard. I tighten up the connections with limited (and short lasting) success. Any ideas on what to use to lubricate the bed or silence it in some other fashion?

Re: Squeaky bed
From: Jim Cole
Date: 14 Apr 1999
Comments
Try paste wax, but don't expect any great results. You may want to check into replacing the hanger parts. It sounds like they may be worn.

rubbing out varnish
From: Pete Callesen
Date: 14 Apr 1999
Comments
I need info on how to rub out varnish. I tried 400 grit sandpaper and water-then steelwool and rottenstone. When the light hit it just right, you could see lines. The same thing happens when I try to rub out Deft. My problem on the finish is the nibs. Thanks, Pete

Re: rubbing out varnish
From: Jim Cole
Date: 15 Apr 1999
Comments
What kind of paper are you using? CAMI 400 grit should not leave lines. P 400 will leave visible lines. Your problem could also be in application or prep. If you are brushing you may not be getting good flow out. If you are getting scratches from the paper wait longer for the finish to harden 3-4 days for deft a week for varnish. Use plenty of water and change paper frequently to avoid build up on the paper which can cause scratches.

refinishing a dresser
From: aimee
Date: 09 Apr 1999
Comments
I could you use some advice on locating 2 handles for a dresser I'm refinishing. I'm stripping off many layers of paint. I pulled out one of the locks on the drawer and found a list of patent dates the last being April 18, 1885. The plate that rests against the drawer feels like tin and the handle attached is much heavier. This is my first real project(meaning with a piece that I care about) I'm not sure how to finish it once I get all of the paint off either. There are so many books listed on this sight. Can you recommend one or two for beginners on technique and identifying what it would have looked like originally? thanks

Antique Sewing machine Cabinet
From: Drjon20k@aol.com
Date: 03 May 1999
Comments
I found this cabinet at a garage sale in Travarse City, MI. It is absolutly beautiful but did not have the machine inside. They obviously used it as a night stand- as will I! My question is where or who could tell me how old this piece dates back. Please Email with answer. Thanks JK

Rocking Chair I.D.
From: kels529@AOL.com
Date: 16 Apr 1999
Comments
I recently acquired a rocking chair that looks very old. On the underneath are written on numbers and an engraved marking. The marking is an outline of a chair with an N on top and an S underneath it. Can anyone tell me about this chair. It's black and I've tried all kinds of strippers, but none of them seem to work.

Info needed...
From: Fred
Date: 13 Apr 1999
Comments
Hello...I have been trying find some history info on a couple of antique tables and a desk I have. I would believe one table is from late 1800 and the other is from early 1900. Both have been in the family for last 60 years, that I know off. I'm from NJ. They could be from Philly, PA, NY or Conn. Desk also same era and area. Does anybody know where on line could I find some history help about these tables.

MUSTY ODOR
From: CLEMENS
Date: 16 Apr 1999
Comments
PERSISTANT ODOR USUALLY ARE EMITTED BY THE UNFINISHED SURFACES OF WOODEN FURNITURE, I.E. INSIDE CARCASSE, UNDERSIDE OF DRAWERS, ETC. MASKING AGENTS LIKE DEODORIZERS WILL NOT DO. PERMANENT CURE IS TO SEAL THE ODOR AWAY. THE EASIEST AND SAFEST WAY TO DO AT HOME IS WITH SHELLAC. THERE ARE PRODUCTS LIKE "BULLS EYE SPRAY SHELLAC" IN CANS AVAILABLE IN HARWARE STORES. SOLVENT IS ALCOHOL, SO APPLICATION IS RECOMENDED OUTSIDE. PROTECT FINISHED SURFACES,COVER ALL RAW WOOD SURFACES WITH EVEN SPRAY FILM. MIGHT HAVE TO APPLY TWICE. THIS SHOULD CURE THE PROBLEM PERMANTLY. GOOD LUCK! :-)

Nichols & Stone maple windsors
From: Liz
Date: 03 May 1999
Comments
I recently purchased some Nichols and Stone maple windsors that had been painted wedgewood blue. I obvioulsy bit off more than I wanted to chew. when I got home I realied that the chairs had been origanally black. The paint stripped off without a problem. However, there is residue of black paint in the grain that I can't get out. The stripper wouldn't remove it. What should I try next. I put a little bleach (Clorox) it didn't work. If I use a wood bleach, will it lighten the wood too much. I wanted a maple finish on these chairs. I will I have to settle for walnut?

Re: Picture frame re-gilding
From: Jim Cole
Date: 26 Apr 1999
Comments
I posted my email address wrong, it should be; jac111@new-vista1.com

Re: trunk
From: Napolean13@msn.com
Date: 25 Apr 1999
Comments
Had problems with server. Have sent picture. Have you gotten it yet?

Grandpa's steamer trunk
From: Kyle Thomas
Date: 24 Apr 1999
Comments
The panels are very rusty. Looks like they're made out of tin. There are wooden slats on the outside that I would like to restore as well. I don't want to make it look "like new", but I would like to try to remove some of the rust. Should I used naval jelly for the rust. And if I do should I be careful not to get it on the wood slats? My mom just started sanding the WHOLE thing the other day and I felt this was the wrong thing to do. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Kyle

Mahagony Dresser
From: S.Carla
Date: 21 Apr 1999
Comments
I have an old Mahagony Dresser which has a white film over a good part of it. It doesn't appear to be a stain from anything having dropped on it, but rather from it just being old. I used a product made by Howard, which I applied with a steel wool pad, to clean it up. It worked beautifully when I did it and most of the white film disappeared. However, after several weeks the film slowly reappeared and is all back. Does anyone have any idea how I can clean this dresser up and get rid of the film without having to sand it down to the wood and re-stain it?

Antique Writing Desk/Cabinet
From: heather2@itlnet.net
Date: 18 Apr 1999

Comments
I have an old writing desk/cabinet. On the back is stamped Walsh Brothers and Adair, ??. I have looked everywhere trying to find the dates the company was in business, and what quality of furniture they produced. Please e-mail me if you have heard of this company.

Re: refinishing a dresser
From: SYSTEMATIC CONTENTS SERVICE
Date: 16 Apr 1999
Comments
YOU WILL HAVE A VERY HARD TIME TO FIND HARDWARE TO MATCH THE EXISTING ONE. AN EASY SOLUTION IS TO BUY AN EPOXY CASTING SET AT AN ART STORE AND CAST A REPRODUCTION FROM AN EXISTING ONE. IT CAN BE EALILY FINISHED TO PRODUCE A GODD COLOR MATCH. GOOD LUCK
SERPENTINE DRAWER FRONT

From: CLEMENS
Date: 16 Apr 1999
Comments

ANY GOOD CABINET MAKER WORKING IN WOOD WILL BE ABLE TO MAKE A REPLACEMENT FRONT FROM ANOTHER DRAWER SAMPLE. THE IMPACT ON TEH VALUE OF THE PIECE OF FURNITURE IS NO MORE THAN AN OLD REPLACEMENT FRONT WHICH WILL BE IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND.