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ANTIQUE GLASS and CRYSTAL DISCUSSION ARCHIVE

 

Glass Repair

From: George
Category: Category 1
Date: 10/31/98
Time: 3:09:27 PM
Remote Name: 205.232.95.204

Comments

What type of adhesive is best for gluing glass?

 

Re: Glass Repair

From: STEVE
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/4/98
Time: 8:05:34 PM
Remote Name: 152.163.194.202

Comments

U.V GLUE (ultraviolet glue)


glass repair

From: Ron
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/5/98
Time: 7:39:40 AM
Remote Name: 204.60.39.18

Comments

how do you eliminate seeing the "plane of fracture" when you are epoxying clear glass pieces together ? Are there things that have to be done to the surfaces before epoxying pieces together ? Thanks

 

Re: glass repair

From: Lawrence
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/5/98
Time: 8:07:44 AM
Remote Name: 12.77.24.117

Comments

The "plane of fracture" or refraction that you see in a glass break or in a hairline fracture will almost always disappear completely when bonded or consolidated with Hxtal NYL epoxy resin. One must be certain to apply enough resin to the breaks so that there are no remaining air bubbles once joined. Gently warming the edge with a hair dryer will help eliminate the bubbles once appled and prior to bonding. Cleaning of excess exuded resin should be left until it is half way cured (24 to 36 hours) and then wiped away with swabs of acetone or alcohol. If you clean it away too soon the solvents will erode into the break line and create the refractive problem. Hxtal has great clarity and good long term aging characteristics but be aware that on thicker bonded joints it can prove very difficult to reverse by standard means. There is a surface treatment for the break edges which was published a few years back to lessen the tendency of Hxtal to "crawl" up on the applied glass surface. I believe it was an alcohol but which one I can't recall at present. I will pass it along when I come across it again. We generally have few problems when properly applied though.


 

Glass repair

From: Nadia
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/20/98
Time: 12:27:01 PM
Remote Name: 153.34.181.180

Comments

Are these repair procesures(Hxtal) for "plane of fracture" works the same for colored (red and blue)and milky glass?

Re: Glass repair

From: Lawrence
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/22/98
Time: 1:20:08 PM
Remote Name: 12.77.24.95

Comments

You may tint the Hxtal with titanium when matching milk glass (perhaps to an opacity equivalent of 2% milk). With colored glass it is not necessary to tint the resin. Please be aware that Hxtal is irreversible when induced into a crack and while it does have excellent long term aging characteristics it will yellow in time, the length of which is determined by the display environment. Some restorers use Paraloid B-72 to secure a crack or even bond glass but it does not have the strength or the refractive qualities of Hxtal. It does remain reversible indefinitely.


 

hxtol & polishing

From: Dale Peterson/Restoration Services
Category: Category 1
Date: 12/6/98
Time: 6:26:29 PM
Remote Name: 208.152.103.83

Comments

Once we decide to use Hxtal. what can be used to make a mold to make a new piece for a piece that is missing that will leave the mold side clean and shinny or else what can we polish it with to get that clear, smooth, shinny surface again thanks

Re: Hxtal & polishing.

From: Lawrence Bradshaw
Category: Category 1
Date: 12/7/98
Time: 8:14:17 PM
Remote Name: 12.77.25.33

Comments

We generally use a dental silicone based impression putty for creating molds for both glass and ceramic. It takes very fine impressions and cures quickly. You can order quantities from most dental supply houses. We polish fills first with various grades of glass paper followed by a further finer polish with Micro Mesh silicon carbide on fabric. The final polish is carried out with Autosol Metal Polish. This is a German manufactured product. Conservator’s Emporium carries Autochrome Metal Polish which is not quite as effective. They may carry the Autosol if you request it. Another option may be to retouch your cured Hxtal cast with a clear coat of Hxtal applied with a brush. It does have a tendency to crawl though. You may wish to refer to the book Conservation of Glass by Roy Newton and Sandra Davidson for further options on casting resins for glass. This book is available through our book ‘restoration and conservation catalogue’ at: http://home.att.net/~anhua It has a great deal of information [ more than can be covered in this forum] on various molding materials, casting resins, release agents and colorants.


 

touching up gold rim

From: kir@compuserve.com
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/5/98
Time: 8:04:16 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.238.236

Comments

Is it possible to touch up the gold rim on glasses? If so, how? thanks

Re: touching up gold rim

From: ernie
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/9/98
Time: 9:22:22 AM
Remote Name: 207.41.194.100

Comments

There is no practical way to match the gold on stemware because the original finish is fired on. You would have to find someone with a glass annealing oven or kiln to refire the gold. Main risk is that you stand a better than even chance that you will lose the glass. Touching up with gilt paint is very temporary at best and while the amounts are small, probably not a good idea to be putting paint that consists of brass, copper and chemicals in your mouth. Educating your customers is your best bet.


 

glass repair

From: Ron
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/9/98
Time: 11:21:52 AM
Remote Name: 204.60.39.68

Comments

Lawrence- thankyou for your response to my "plane of fracture" question. I've tried a few places for the recommended product, but to no avail. Can you tell me where I can purchase the Hxtal NYL epoxy resin. Thankyou


 

Glass

From: Nadia
Category: Category 1
Date: 12/7/98
Time: 2:17:43 PM
Remote Name: 153.34.12.18

Comments

Two questions for Ernie, The copy of the page (page 15 from your at the convention)that shows the glass restoration machine does not have any phone number or the name of the company that makes them,would you be kind and send me this info. here is my email address nfwassef@msn.com The other question was on the ultra violet adhesive: you are recomending BOA 300 and they have on the list a BOA 325 that seems to be stronger. Why 300 is your choice verses 325. Thank you Ernie FOR YOUR HELP NOT TO MENTION YOUR ASSISTANCE AND PRESNTATION AT THE CONVENTON

Re: Glass

From: Ernie
Category: Category 1
Date: 12/9/98
Time: 4:39:03 PM
Remote Name: 207.41.194.66
Comments

I have been using the KOA 300 for about 4 yrs without a failure. I will check with the company concerning the merits of 325 vs 300 and get back to you.


restore broken antique coin glasses

From: onealdfcm@earthlink.net
Category: Category 1
Date: 12/9/98
Time: 12:37:39 PM
Remote Name: 209.179.12.221

Comments

Where would you recommend going in California to restore ruby red coin glasses broken at the stem. Fracture is not a clean break. Would prefer skilled craftsman near the Los Angeles/Pasadena area(if possible, but not mandatory)that can refuse them.

 

Re: restore broken antique coin glasses

From: Ernie
Category: Category 1
Date: 12/9/98
Time: 4:44:33 PM
Remote Name: 207.41.194.66

Comments

I will try to have our lists of restorers checked for one near you. You should understad that they probably will not fuse the glass but will use a UV curing adhesive to bond the pieces. Fusing would require that the glass be heated to the melting point and at that time it would likely deform or shatter. If the glass is broken at the base I would reckomend replacing rather than repair as that is a high stress point. A repair where the stem meets the bowl is much more successful.


 

Re: glass repair/Hxtal

From: Lawrence
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/9/98
Time: 11:53:55 AM
Remote Name: 12.77.24.241

Comments

The manufacturer of Hxtal used to allow distribution rights to only one company. Now it is available from at least two sources and the price is dropping (funny how that happens!). Try Adhering Technologies, 3490 Kimberly Rd., Cameron, CA 95682. Phone 530-676-4810. The 60 gram kit is $30.00 and the 150 gram kit is $60.00. Ask them if they have technical literature they can include. The suggested mixture of resin and catlyst is generally by weight but for small quantities we use a glass syringe and mix by volume (cc's)with no problems. You can keep a mixed batch in the freezer for up to a week but it does become increasingly viscous.


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