pledge

From: Claire Hirzel
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/1/98
Time: 9:30:27 PM
Remote Name: 152.163.213.58
Comments

Dear James, I have a question for you, it's a very common problem, maybe you have the answer. How can I remove "Pledge" from a tabletop? (because it contains Silicones, all other finishes won't stick to the surface) I would also like to know If you can tell me how to stain new leather for a table. Is it common to use Caustic Soda(natrium hydroxyde)? Thank you, Claire Hirzel

Pledge removal

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 12:19:50 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.174.199
Comments

You can remove most of the pledge with mineral spirits and a clean cloth. The silicone thats in the Pledge is rather tenacious and cannot be removed 100%. Leather stains can be purchased from Tandy Leather which has nationwide stores -- or try a web search

Jeff

pledge

From: Claire Hirzel
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/1/98
Time: 9:30:27 PM
Remote Name: 152.163.213.58
Comments

Dear James, I have a question for you, it's a very common problem, maybe you have the answer. How can I remove "Pledge" from a tabletop? (because it contains Silicones, all other finishes won't stick to the surface) I would also like to know If you can tell me how to stain new leather for a table. Is it common to use Caustic Soda(natrium hydroxyde)? Thank you, Claire Hirzel

Pledge removal

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 12:19:50 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.174.199
Comments

You can remove most of the pledge with mineral spirits and a clean cloth. The silicone thats in the Pledge is rather tenacious and cannot be removed 100%. Leather stains can be purchased from Tandy Leather which has nationwide stores -- or try a web search

Jeff

refinishing old desk

From: Vickie Dones
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 10:01:03 AM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.21
Comments

We have an old desk that has been painted. We are taking off the paint and refinishing it. It is black walnut. The question is there are screw holes in the back, which makes us think it might not have been a desk. It has three narrow drawers side-by-side. We want to restore it back to its original state, but we need to know more about it. Can you recommend where we can learn more about it?

Re: refinishing old desk

From: Jeff
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 12:24:16 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.174.199
Comments

The screw holes may have been from a molding or a mirror that was attached to the back. Without seeing the desk its hard to say If you can find any dates on hardware or the back or the drawers - that would be one way. Other thab that -- try your local library -- they have tons of style books and information on antiques

Jeff

Re: refinishing old desk

From: Lovejoy
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 10:02:32 AM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.21
Comments

Sounds like your desk was once a vanity, If you want to find out it's vintage the best way is to look at how it was built. The type of screws,nails,locks and castors can often place the date of manfacture within ten years. wood joints can also give a very good indication of a Items age,example , dovetail joints that are machine cut are a product of the late 19th Century, old screws ( 1849 ) had no points on the end, ceramic castors appeared about 1851 and round wire nails became common in the 1890's. There are several good books on the subject, but the best all round that I have come across is The Counrty life Antiques Hand Book, published by Country life books. This book is a wealth of information and covers furniture, clocks, china, glass and silver. If you had to have only one book on antiques this is the one. I hope this has been of some help. Lovejoy

refinishing a desk

From: Terry Duty
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/4/98
Time: 7:02:34 PM
Remote Name: 164.116.152.72
Comments

HELP! I am new to this stuff but have really enjoyed stripping down an older 1940's/50's desk. MY problem- after a complete sanding ooff of the old shelac I have foun that the desk is made of 2 woods. The top and drawer are what apper to be mahogony, the frame and legs are a very light wood, ash? Now the question after ALL this sanding how can I stain/dye/varnish this desk so it is not two tone, and not too dark? product recommendations?

Thanks: a rookie

stain removal

From: Meira Kain
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 4:24:56 AM
Remote Name: 192.115.104.56
Comments

Is there an easier was of removing stain from old oak chairs? I am using sand paper to remove what seems like a deep penetration of the dark stain. HELP!!! my arms have become numb!

Re: stain removal

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 4:52:49 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.210.142
Comments

Stains are usually one of two types--- dye based or pigment based. Normal stripping should remove or at least lighten a pigment based stain. A dye stain penetrates much deeper but you should be able to remove it with a chlorine based bleach. Try a few drops of Clorox on an inconspicuous area --- if it lightens --- do the whole piece. This will save you hours of sanding. If its a chemical stain it may not respond - and I'm afraid the only thing to do wouyld to keep sanding

Jeff

pledge

From: Claire Hirzel
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/1/98
Time: 9:30:27 PM
Remote Name: 152.163.213.58
Comments

Dear James, I have a question for you, it's a very common problem, maybe you have the answer. How can I remove "Pledge" from a tabletop? (because it contains Silicones, all other finishes won't stick to the surface) I would also like to know If you can tell me how to stain new leather for a table. Is it common to use Caustic Soda(natrium hydroxyde)? Thank you, Claire Hirzel

Pledge removal

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 12:19:50 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.174.199
Comments

You can remove most of the pledge with mineral spirits and a clean cloth. The silicone thats in the Pledge is rather tenacious and cannot be removed 100%. Leather stains can be purchased from Tandy Leather which has nationwide stores -- or try a web search

Jeff

refinishing old desk

From: Vickie Dones
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 10:01:03 AM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.21
Comments

We have an old desk that has been painted. We are taking off the paint and refinishing it. It is black walnut. The question is there are screw holes in the back, which makes us think it might not have been a desk. It has three narrow drawers side-by-side. We want to restore it back to its original state, but we need to know more about it. Can you recommend where we can learn more about it?

Re: refinishing old desk

From: Jeff
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 12:24:16 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.174.199
Comments

The screw holes may have been from a molding or a mirror that was attached to the back. Without seeing the desk its hard to say If you can find any dates on hardware or the back or the drawers - that would be one way. Other thab that -- try your local library -- they have tons of style books and information on antiques

Jeff

Re: refinishing old desk

From: Lovejoy
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 10:02:32 AM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.21
Comments

Sounds like your desk was once a vanity, If you want to find out it's vintage the best way is to look at how it was built. The type of screws,nails,locks and castors can often place the date of manfacture within ten years. wood joints can also give a very good indication of a Items age,example , dovetail joints that are machine cut are a product of the late 19th Century, old screws ( 1849 ) had no points on the end, ceramic castors appeared about 1851 and round wire nails became common in the 1890's. There are several good books on the subject, but the best all round that I have come across is The Counrty life Antiques Hand Book, published by Country life books. This book is a wealth of information and covers furniture, clocks, china, glass and silver. If you had to have only one book on antiques this is the one. I hope this has been of some help. Lovejoy

refinishing a desk

From: Terry Duty
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/4/98
Time: 7:02:34 PM
Remote Name: 164.116.152.72
Comments

HELP! I am new to this stuff but have really enjoyed stripping down an older 1940's/50's desk. MY problem- after a complete sanding ooff of the old shelac I have foun that the desk is made of 2 woods. The top and drawer are what apper to be mahogony, the frame and legs are a very light wood, ash? Now the question after ALL this sanding how can I stain/dye/varnish this desk so it is not two tone, and not too dark? product recommendations?

Thanks: a rookie

stain removal

From: Meira Kain
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 4:24:56 AM
Remote Name: 192.115.104.56
Comments

Is there an easier was of removing stain from old oak chairs? I am using sand paper to remove what seems like a deep penetration of the dark stain. HELP!!! my arms have become numb!

Re: stain removal

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 4:52:49 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.210.142
Comments

Stains are usually one of two types--- dye based or pigment based. Normal stripping should remove or at least lighten a pigment based stain. A dye stain penetrates much deeper but you should be able to remove it with a chlorine based bleach. Try a few drops of Clorox on an inconspicuous area --- if it lightens --- do the whole piece. This will save you hours of sanding. If its a chemical stain it may not respond - and I'm afraid the only thing to do wouyld to keep sanding

Jeff

Re: stain removal

From: Lovejoy
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 11:15:11 PM
Remote Name: 206.172.220.119
Comments

Some stains will resist all attempts to remove them, as a last resort you could try a A&B type bleach, bleach of this type will even remove the natural colour of some woods! A&B Two part bleach can be purchased in most paint and wallpaper outlets and are fairly easy to use, but you should try them on a small spot out of sight ( under the seat of the chair )first ,just to see if the result is what you are looking for.

pledge

From: Claire Hirzel
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/1/98
Time: 9:30:27 PM
Remote Name: 152.163.213.58
Comments

Dear James, I have a question for you, it's a very common problem, maybe you have the answer. How can I remove "Pledge" from a tabletop? (because it contains Silicones, all other finishes won't stick to the surface) I would also like to know If you can tell me how to stain new leather for a table. Is it common to use Caustic Soda(natrium hydroxyde)? Thank you, Claire Hirzel

Pledge removal

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 12:19:50 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.174.199
Comments

You can remove most of the pledge with mineral spirits and a clean cloth. The silicone thats in the Pledge is rather tenacious and cannot be removed 100%. Leather stains can be purchased from Tandy Leather which has nationwide stores -- or try a web search

Jeff

refinishing old desk

From: Vickie Dones
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 10:01:03 AM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.21
Comments

We have an old desk that has been painted. We are taking off the paint and refinishing it. It is black walnut. The question is there are screw holes in the back, which makes us think it might not have been a desk. It has three narrow drawers side-by-side. We want to restore it back to its original state, but we need to know more about it. Can you recommend where we can learn more about it?

Re: refinishing old desk

From: Jeff
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 12:24:16 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.174.199
Comments

The screw holes may have been from a molding or a mirror that was attached to the back. Without seeing the desk its hard to say If you can find any dates on hardware or the back or the drawers - that would be one way. Other thab that -- try your local library -- they have tons of style books and information on antiques

Jeff

Re: refinishing old desk

From: Lovejoy
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/3/98
Time: 10:02:32 AM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.21
Comments

Sounds like your desk was once a vanity, If you want to find out it's vintage the best way is to look at how it was built. The type of screws,nails,locks and castors can often place the date of manfacture within ten years. wood joints can also give a very good indication of a Items age,example , dovetail joints that are machine cut are a product of the late 19th Century, old screws ( 1849 ) had no points on the end, ceramic castors appeared about 1851 and round wire nails became common in the 1890's. There are several good books on the subject, but the best all round that I have come across is The Counrty life Antiques Hand Book, published by Country life books. This book is a wealth of information and covers furniture, clocks, china, glass and silver. If you had to have only one book on antiques this is the one. I hope this has been of some help. Lovejoy

refinishing a desk

From: Terry Duty
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/4/98
Time: 7:02:34 PM
Remote Name: 164.116.152.72
Comments

HELP! I am new to this stuff but have really enjoyed stripping down an older 1940's/50's desk. MY problem- after a complete sanding ooff of the old shelac I have foun that the desk is made of 2 woods. The top and drawer are what apper to be mahogony, the frame and legs are a very light wood, ash? Now the question after ALL this sanding how can I stain/dye/varnish this desk so it is not two tone, and not too dark? product recommendations?

Thanks: a rookie

stain removal

From: Meira Kain
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 4:24:56 AM
Remote Name: 192.115.104.56
Comments

Is there an easier was of removing stain from old oak chairs? I am using sand paper to remove what seems like a deep penetration of the dark stain. HELP!!! my arms have become numb!

Re: stain removal

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 4:52:49 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.210.142
Comments

Stains are usually one of two types--- dye based or pigment based. Normal stripping should remove or at least lighten a pigment based stain. A dye stain penetrates much deeper but you should be able to remove it with a chlorine based bleach. Try a few drops of Clorox on an inconspicuous area --- if it lightens --- do the whole piece. This will save you hours of sanding. If its a chemical stain it may not respond - and I'm afraid the only thing to do wouyld to keep sanding

Jeff

Re: stain removal

From: Lovejoy
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 11:15:11 PM
Remote Name: 206.172.220.119
Comments

Some stains will resist all attempts to remove them, as a last resort you could try a A&B type bleach, bleach of this type will even remove the natural colour of some woods! A&B Two part bleach can be purchased in most paint and wallpaper outlets and are fairly easy to use, but you should try them on a small spot out of sight ( under the seat of the chair )first ,just to see if the result is what you are looking for.

Staircase

From: Jeff
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 6:17:44 AM
Remote Name: 208.251.156.144
Comments

We are restoring a 100 year old queen anne style house.  We have a beautiful oak staircase, which i am sanding down to bare wood.  So far, I have redone only three (of thirteen) treads.  My question is, do I have to put on two coats of amber shellac, and would like your opinion on the best "top coat" protection?  The only bathroom in the house is up the stairs, therefore it's a very high traffic area.  Your advice is greatly appreciated.

And while i'm at it, do you have any suggestions regarding the refinishing of a veneered oak door with 'serious' crazing (from outdoor exposure)?  There are a fair number of "applique" designs, crazed as well.  Currently has a "mahogany" (dark) stain.  We live in Minnesota, So 'weather proof' (sorta) is important.

Thanks again for any input.

Look forward to hearing from you.

Re: Staircase

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 5:07:30 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.210.142
Comments

<<<We are restoring a 100 year old queen anne style house.  We have a beautiful oak staircase, which i am sanding down to bare wood.  So far, I have redone only three (of thirteen) treads.  My question is, do I have to put on two coats of amber shellac, and would like your opinion on the best "top coat" protection?  The only bathroom in the house is up the stairs, therefore it's a very high traffic area.  Your advice is greatly appreciated. >>>

The floors were originally done with shellac and them waxed and there is no problem with this treatment. In the old days -- people just re-shellacked the floors when they started looking worn. Since shellac re-bonds to itself - this was not a problem.

You can always put a more durable finish on the stairs - but if you are using the shellac for color - then use de-waxed shellac followed by a satin polyurethane. You can use as much shellac as you like for color.

<<<And while i'm at it, do you have any suggestions regarding the refinishing of a veneered oak door with 'serious' crazing (from outdoor exposure)?  There are a fair number of "applique" designs, crazed as well.  Currently has a "mahogany" (dark) stain.  We live in Minnesota, So 'weather proof' (sorta) is important. >>>

A spar varnish is your only choice. Remove the old finish and re-do it. If you can protect the door somehow from direct sun it will last longer.

Rather than stripping off a thick finish every 2-3 years --- I feel its easier to apply several thin coats every year.

Jeff

Re: Staircase

From: Jeff G
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 6:05:20 PM
Remote Name: 209.240.200.18
Comments

Jeff J Is there any alternative to stripping the finish off of the oak door? Can the crazing be abraded off? It is such a dark stain and the appliques and mouldings (egg and dart and others surrounding the oval glass)that stripping would be tough at best. The door is over 100 years old and I would like to retain the finish if I can.

Re: Staircase

From: Lovejoy
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/7/98
Time: 11:01:15 PM
Remote Name: 206.172.220.119
Comments

A topcoat is only as good as it's substrate, your best bet is to take your door to a commercial stripper, they can safely remove all the old finish ,even from delicate mouldings. The finish that is on your door is only as original as it's last coat, what is on the door at present is most likely layer upon layer of old top coats which is why it appears so dark.

queen bed modification

From: liz@sports-spectrum.com
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/11/98
Time: 12:39:07 PM
Remote Name: 209.37.35.72
Comments

Jeff-Could you provide a plan for coverting a standard bed into a queen? The one I hope to do is a small four poster with no detail on the side rails. Thanks. Liz

Re: queen bed modification

From: jeff jewitt@compuserve.com
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/13/98
Time: 3:07:29 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.209.2
Comments

Hmm -- without severely modifying the headdboad width --- the only thing you can do is to install conversion brackets which should be available from a good bedding store in your area.

Jeff

Re: queen bed modification

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/14/98
Time: 6:12:26 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.178.185
Comments

Without drastic modification to the headboard -- the only way I know id to purchase conversion brackets available from most bedding stores

Jeff

Finishing a cherry table?

From: Dan C.
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/12/98
Time: 8:12:31 AM
Remote Name: 38.178.195.164
Comments

I have just removed a very dark stain from a recently puchased antique table - it looks like the table was actually cherry (this is my first refinishing job).

I now want to finish the table, but do not want to darken the color of the wood from its current condition. I have had someone suggest a couple of coats of tung oil, followed by polyeurethane.

Does this sound like a good alternative, or do you have any other suggestions?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Cheers,

Re: Finishing a cherry table?

From: jim  antique works jac111@new-vista1.com
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/12/98
Time: 9:45:11 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.132
Comments

PLEASE DO NOT PUT POLY ON AN ANTIQUE! A Better treatment would be to seal the table with 2 light coats of 3lb. shelac then topcoat with lacquer or a long oil varnish. A coat of paste wax over eaither one will provide extra protection and a richer look.

Re: Finishing a cherry table?

From: jeffjewitt@compuserve.com
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/13/98
Time: 3:10:23 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.209.2
Comments

Jims advice is right on. Id opt for several coats of the shellac he mentioned. You can also use a dark garnet shellac if you want some "color". Follw this with a waterlox or Rockhard (behlen) varnish rather than the long oil, though, as it will rub out better.

Jeff

Re: Finishing a cherry table?

From: Jim
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/16/98
Time: 5:47:17 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.76
Comments

Jeff smile when you throw rocks at long oil varnish. It may be a little harder to rub out but it is much easier to put on. Purple 3M does very nice job of removing any nibs or overlaps, then 4-0 wool will polish nicely.

Where can I get glass for an antique china closet?

From: K. Day
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/13/98
Time: 11:17:21 PM
Remote Name: 166.72.191.202

Re: Where can I get glass for an antique china closet?

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/14/98
Time: 6:11:00 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.178.185
Comments

What type of glass is it??? -- if your looking for curved glass -- BL Antique Glass in Michigan can help - they can fabricate from templates 800-840-1110

Jeff

chair repair

From: J. McKenzie
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/14/98
Time: 1:23:20 PM
Remote Name: 208.25.112.92
Comments

I am repairing a mahogony chair from the 30/40's with a shield back style. The top of the back of the chair needs to be removed and new dowels installed. I am haveing trouble separtating the top. I think it was once repaired poorly with elmers. I found a metal pencil head in one of the dowel holes! Should I try vinigar in the joints? I have already broken the top piece! UGHHH I ignorantly thought I only needed to pull! I have another chair that is missing cross pieces on the legs. I could make the two chairs into one as well. Thanks

Re: chair repair

From: jim antique works
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/14/98
Time: 6:04:46 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.87
Comments

you are on the right track. vinegar will disolve the glue and make it easy to remove parts, but be patient it can take a while. you may want to try injecting the vinegar in the joints with a syringe. you can probably save both chairs by making new stretcher to replace the missing one. if you don't have the skills or equipment to make one try a professional shop in your area.

From: jim  antique works
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/14/98
Time: 6:14:58 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.87
Comments

vinegar should break the glue bond. you might want to try injecting it into joint w/ syringe. in any case be patient it takes a while. have you considered making stretcher for the missing one, then you can save both chairs.

Re: chair repair again

From: Lovejoy
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/17/98
Time: 11:19:33 AM
Remote Name: 206.172.220.198
Comments

The method used to remove the top of your chair depends on the type of glue used in it's contruction, but one method seems to work best for all and this is heat. The method I have found to be most effective on modern chairs is to heat up the area of the joint in question with a heat gun until it is almost too hot to hold and then tap it apart with a padded wooden mallet, once the joint is loose it is much easier to determine what type of glue has been used and what further steps should be taken in the repair. One other trick you could use to break a glue bond in a tight joint where there is no gap to inject into ,drill a small hole the same size as the end of syringe ( without the needle attached ) and just plug the syringe into the hole and inject the required solvent. The syringe exerts an enormous hydraulic pressure that will force the solvent into any available void within the joint. The injection hole is so small it is very easy to repair.

Re: refinish a desk

From: Lovejoy
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/13/98
Time: 11:20:45 PM
Remote Name: 206.172.220.130
Comments

If you want to leave the top and drawers of your desk a natural mahogany shade and want to stain the frame and legs to match, first wipe the top with with some paint thinner, this will give you a better idea as to how the mahogany will appear with a clear finish. This is the colour you will have to match the legs to. To get a really good stain match I would suggest using a water base dye stain, I feel they give a much more natural look than pigmented stains or glazes. Most refinishing supply houses and paint centres have stain colour charts to help you pick your colour using this simple method, take the colour chart and punch holes in the centre of each colour chip, lay the chart on top of the mahogany desk top and look at the holes you have punched out. The colour chip that matches the top of your desk top will be the one where the punch hole appears to have vanished.This happens because the colour in the hole ( your desk top colour ) matches that of the chip! I know it sounds strange but it works everytime. Once the top and legs match in colour you can top coat with the finish of your choice.

Warped Fireplace Mantel

From: Jeff G
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/14/98
Time: 2:40:59 AM
Remote Name: 209.240.200.21
Comments

We are retoring on of our fireplace mantels, it is over 100 years old and oak. At some point the lower mantel became warped. Do I need to replace it, or is there some method of straightening it out...preferably while it is still on the fireplace.

Re: Warped Fireplace Mantel

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/14/98
Time: 6:15:55 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.178.185
Comments

It probably won't stay straight if you straighten it -- I'd opt for replacing it as it will probably work out to be less work in the long run.

Jeff

Re: Warped Fireplace Mantel

From: jim antique works
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/14/98
Time: 6:26:07 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.87
Comments

i have had some success remaving warps by laying boards convex side up in the sun on a stack of wet news paper. be aware that this con result in dark stains on oak which will then have to be bleached out. maybe aomeone else can auggest amethod of staigtnening in place i hope so i would like to know that trick too.

Chair repair

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/14/98
Time: 6:19:14 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.178.185
Comments

Yes vinegar works -- inject it with a syringe if possible. Warming it may help it wick in the joint. Let it sit for thirty minutes before trying to break the bond.

Stretchers are pretty easy to have made. Most good furniture shops can make them inexpensively

Jeff

chair repair again

From: J Mckenzie
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/16/98
Time: 2:17:07 PM
Remote Name: 208.25.112.234
Comments

Thankyou for the replies. I will try it with a syringe as I was not able to break the bond just pouring it around the joint. The piece I am seperating is a shield back chair with a wheat pattern in the middle. I also have loose arms on the armchairs and I need to remove the little buttons that cover the holes where I assume a screw is. Thanks again.

Fasteners holding top of China Closet

From: Joe Esposito
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/16/98
Time: 6:57:31 PM
Remote Name: 199.173.92.103
Comments

I am trying to restore my mothers China closet. It was made in the late 40's and is Mahagany Veneer. Right now its painted green. I need to seperate the top from the bottom to get it in my shop. There are 2 screws near the bottom front. The rear seems to have corragated fasteners. Any ideas on removing clips without destroying wood?

Re: Fasteners holding top of China Closet

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/18/98
Time: 9:15:24 PM
Remote Name: 206.175.184.143
Comments

These are a real bugger to remove -- First --- try drilling small holes on either side to "loosen" them --- and then you can sometimes pull them free by wiggling them out with small needle-nose pliers.

If that doesn't work you'll have to pare away wood from either side of the fastener and then pry them out with some pliers.

Jeff

Pressed Back Rocker

From: Kevin
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/16/98
Time: 10:02:23 PM
Remote Name: 129.37.108.35
Comments

I have an antique pressed back rocker (probably mahogany) that was refinished in a cherry stain. one arm is broken loose and one of the spindles is broken. It is possible to repair spindle but will be very weak. I have made reasonable replica on lath. What should I do?

Re: Pressed Back Rocker

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/18/98
Time: 9:17:30 PM
Remote Name: 206.175.184.143
Comments

If you have made a reasonable replica --- what is it you are asking?? How to glue it? How to finish it to match??

Jeff

Antique walnut bureau knobs

From: Robert F. Pacini
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/18/98
Time: 10:57:55 PM
Remote Name: 152.163.213.84
Comments

I am a woodturner that has been comissioned to replace dammaged walnut knobs on an antigue bureau. The piece is approximately 100 yrs old and the knobs have a marvelous red hue under a lacquer finish. The new knobs have none of the beautiful patina. I am looking for suggestions to duplicate this color without using stains that simply hide the grain. Use of water based dyes have been the most effective in providing tranparency of the grain and matching the color. I will entertain any suggestions regarding alternate methods.

Re: Antique walnut bureau knobs

From: Jim Antique Works
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/19/98
Time: 8:27:28 AM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.119
Comments

Are you sure they are walnut? Many of these pieces had knobs made of other wood, frequently maple which was dyed. Getting the patina to match is a bear, but you are on the right track w/ dye. Multiple coats of finish with lots of rubbing topped w/ a quality paste wax will get there but it takes time after all you are trying to duplicate 100yrs. of grime wax, hand polishing, UV exposure. GOOD LUCK

Re: Antique walnut bureau knobs

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/21/98
Time: 10:50:06 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.227.26
Comments

The dyes are about the best way to go --- but Ive had very good luck using a dye first, seal with dark garnet shellac, then using a pigmented stain like Bartleys Jet Mahogany (Reddish) and then sealing w shellac.

Jeff Jewitt

Re: Antique walnut bureau knobs

From: Fred Wilbur-woodcarver
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/29/98
Time: 8:25:47 PM
Remote Name: 12.5.48.170
Comments

The reddish hue may be mulberry stain often used to imitate mahogany. Walnut lightens with age unlike some other woods, such as cherry which darken.

label preseveration on furniture

From: Gregg Allison
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/21/98
Time: 9:29:31 AM
Remote Name: 166.55.43.41
Comments

I have used a acid free mylar sealed it with shellac or hot hide glue. The problem that I have is when I have to run the piece through the tanks then rinse it off with water the seal breaks down and I (1) have the sealant break down and the label becomes contaminated and I lose either the writing on the label or I lose the label. Any thoughts?

label preseveration on furniture

From: Gregg Allison
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/21/98
Time: 9:30:01 AM
Remote Name: 166.55.43.41
Comments

I have used a acid free mylar sealed it with shellac or hot hide glue. The problem that I have is when I have to run the piece through the tanks then rinse it off with water the seal breaks down and I have the sealant break down and the label becomes contaminated and I lose either the writing on the label or I lose the label. Any thoughts?

Re: label preseveration on furniture

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/21/98
Time: 10:54:57 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.227.26
Comments

Its a problem --- I agree. If you are going to run the piece through a powered stripping system -- you'll have to remove the part that has the label on it or hand strip around it. If its durable enough -- you can also try removing it but thats a last resort

Jeff

Re: Pressed Back Rocker

From: Jim Antique Works
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/19/98
Time: 8:40:58 AM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.89
Comments

If original will be too weak repaired go ahead and put in the replacement and finish to match. You Should mark end of replacement so when it becomes priceless antique some conservator won't get fooled.

crack along the seam on round pedistle oak dining table

From: Bob Warfield
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/20/98
Time: 4:03:05 PM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.1
Comments

I have a round pedistle oak dining table which we use. Over time, one "end" (that is, one of the edges that is made of parellel boards) has developed a crack along the seam, about 1/4 inch wide at one end but attached at the other. The crack is on the top, but on the bottom the 2 boards are abutting each other. It looks as though the 2 boards are tongue & groove. I have tried to use a clamped board to lift the sagging edge to make the surface flat and tried the use a clamp to "pull" the edge boards, about 6 inchs, toward the center but it won't move. Is it possible to squeeze that crack closed or will it have to be filled, & if so, with what? Thank you. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Re: crack along the seam on round pedistle oak dining table

From: Jim Antique Works
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/21/98
Time: 12:37:55 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.114
Comments

The best remedy is to make shim which will fill crack.. Generally when table tob seperates as you describe top has shrunk and warped.

Re: crack along the seam on round pedistle oak dining table

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/21/98
Time: 10:51:47 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.227.26
Comments

Jims right --- use wood as you will never be able to get the seams to meet. Putty, and other fillers are not as good as using wood.

Jeff

milk paint removal

From: Millie
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/21/98
Time: 12:04:01 PM
remote Name: 207.36.27.100
Comments

Need information on product to use to remove the old time milk paint from s piece of furniture

Re: milk paint removal

From: Jim Antique Works
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/21/98
Time: 12:40:28 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.114
Comments

Why do you want to remove milk paint?? Chances are the piece is more valuable with the milk paint intact, even if a lot of it is missing or damaged.

Re: milk paint removal

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/21/98
Time: 10:58:21 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.227.26
Comments

Behlens makes a powder PDE which will remove it. Also --- many finishers soak rags in a water/lye solution and wrap them on the piece.

Jeff

Re: milk paint removal

From: James
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/22/98
Time: 7:58:17 AM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.26
Comments

On the TV show " Antique Roadshow " there was a fellow who brought in a American high boy that originally had ' dirty red milk paint " on it. He had it refinished and now it was ' He thought" worth more.

Well it valued at $100,000 before he refinished it and now it was worth $ 15,000.

It really pays to know your antiques.

Cane Web Chair Repair

From: Ken
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/21/98
Time: 11:35:51 AM
Remote Name: 206.175.109.179
Comments

What is the cost of cane webbing kit and cost of additional cane webbing sheet etc.. I have 8 chairs with broken webbing on seat bottom. 16.25 inch by 18 inch each . The color is blond natural wood with chrome frame (2 legs only with U base on floor). These are very high quality chairs, 15 years old . They are spline type installation. The cane web backs are in very good condition and do not need repair. I have not done this repair before, but I am confortable with doing any type of detailed repairs. I know that I must send a sample of the cane web to a cane web supplier to match. Also, in general, how much time is required to repair one chair and what is involved.

Thanks,

Ken Morrow

Re: Cane Web Chair Repair

From: Jim Antique Works
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/21/98
Time: 12:53:49 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.114
Comments

See Franks Cane and Rush Supply Cat. @ Http;//www.franksupply.com. Their cat. is on line. Since this is first time suggest you order instruction book as well as cane.

Re: Cane Web Chair Repair

From: Ken Morrow
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/22/98
Time: 2:05:45 PM
Remote Name: 209.154.65.65
Comments

Thanks for your e-mail. These are Breuer chairs. last night I tried to remove a spline and failed. I had used a q-tip to apply a 50-50 solution of white vinegar and water, let it stand a half hour, and began at the back where the spline ends came together. I used the can opener of a jack knife and split some of the spline. I tried using the old webbing to pull out the spline too. The result was 2 inches of split spline and no luck in going further. Is the old spline reuseable or is it normally destroyed in removal ? In putting back an old spline or putting in a new spline, what is the technique to get the spline ends to be so closely butted to each other ? Thanks, Ken Morrow

Re: Cane Web Chair Repair

From: Jim Antique Works
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/22/98
Time: 2:50:12 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.76
Comments

Given the age of your chairs the spline may have been installed with epoxy, vinegar will not disolve it. Try cutting around edge of spline to deptth of 1/8" or less to break bond w/ finished surface. A 1/4 chisel if it will fit gorrve can be used to priy out spline. New spline should be used to install new cane. To get a good butt joint on spline overlap ends and ctu to length, then bevel 1 or 2 degrees from top to bottom away form ends this will let spline butt tightly w/o pushing up and give nice flat seam.

chest of drawers restoration

From: catina daly
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/24/98
Time: 5:44:01 PM
Remote Name: 204.168.97.10
Comments

I have a 3-drawer oak chest of drawers designed in the cottage style. It is covered with 2 layers of paint. The upper layer appears to be an oil based paint while the lower layer is milk paint decorated with acanthus leaves. My question is whether it is possible to remove the upper layer of paint while preserving the lower layer of milk paint and its decorations. Thank you.

Re: chest of drawers restoration

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/26/98
Time: 6:44:58 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.168.71
Comments

If you get ahold of a product called peel-away tm or safest stripper (3M) they are able to remove the top coat without disturbing the original casein based paint. However -- I must caution you that this is an inherently risky procedue and success depends upon proper timing and the fact that you absolutely know that the original paint is casein based.

Jeff Jewitt

Help need info and paws! Elite Table Comapny?

From: r_odenbach@yahoo.com (Rion Odenbach)
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/25/98
Time: 11:36:40 AM
Remote Name: 208.197.132.131
Comments

Hello, I'm in the process of refinishing a table. I don't know anything about antiques, but hopefully someone here can give me some info about this table and the parts I need. It has been painted over with three coats of latex paint, so getting those off has been a chore. The table is small, proably 4'x7'. It has two drop folding leaves. It has a single column in the center that has four radiating legs. The legs have ribs on them, and have caps on the end which are shaped like paws. Their is a drawer which pulls out of the side. The drawer is of dovetail construction, and has a pull on it which is the likeness of a lion. It really is an attractive table, but it is simple and not too fancy. There is an old decal inside the drawer that says, Elite Table Company, Jamestown New York. Unfortunately, it too was half covered by turquois paint, so I had to strip it off. Is this table worth anything? I don't expect that it is, but then again if it is, I may not want to use it in the kitchen. The metal paws that I referred to are badly rusted, do you know anyone who sells these? Thanks for any help. -Rion

Re: Help need info and paws! Elite Table Comapny?

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/26/98
Time: 6:35:20 PM
Remote Name: 199.174.168.71
Comments

As long as you take care of it -- enjoy using it wherever you want. Try Van Dyke Restorersw for the paws at 800-843-3320

Jeff Jewitt

water stains on walnut table

From: Nelson
Category: Category 1
Date: 11/27/98
Time: 10:45:52 PM
Remote Name: 202.27.184.70
Comments

How do I remove water stains on a walnut side table. They are only droplet size but have made the surface the top look cloudy?

Re: water stains on walnut table

From: Jeff Jewitt
Category: Category 1
Date: 12/2/98
Time: 4:58:50 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.65
Comments

If they're white, you can try several things,.

1. First of all do nothing. Many times they'll just disappear on there own. 2. If not try rubbing very lightly with some paste wax and 0000 steel wool. This will change the sheen slightly, so you may have to go back over the whole surface with the wax to get it to match 3. Put a small amount of alcohol on a clean cloth. Wad it up. It should feel as damp as a healthy dogs nose. Wipe back and forth very lightly. This may also change the sheen slightly, so waxing as explained above may be in order

Jeff

finishing a chest of drawers

From: Oliver Hager
Date: 11/29/98
Time: 10:07:50 PM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.11
Comments

When finishing a chest of drawers, if one puts clear finsih on the top and outsides, do you apply on the bottom sides where one one touch only if you picked it up tp move. Also how much of the inside beneath & behind the drawers is it necessary to finish. I plan to use Miniwax fast drying Polyurethane, clear Semi-gloss.

Thankyou for your answer. Oliver Hager

Re: finishing a chest of drawers

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 11/30/98
Time: 5:07:36 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.84
Comments

What kind of chest of drawers is it? If it is an antique please do not put poly on it. You will ruin value of piece and make it very difficult if not impossible to reverse. Insides of casework are not normally finished, but insides of drawers should be.

Re: finishing a chest of drawers

From: Dave Macfee
Date: 12/8/98
Time: 8:48:07 AM
Remote Name: 32.100.28.144
Comments

I think its important for a finish to "wrap around" the edges in appropriate wear areas, such as at the base of the piece, underneath edge of the top, dividing stiles between drawers on the case. If you finish only to the showing edges, the finish will have more tendency to peel from that edge. Where an edge is subjected to any wear or abuse, this is a strong likelihood. I agree with Jim's comments on finishing inside case work. I like to finish drawer interiors too, but I see a lot of them that aren't. I've used the Minwax poly and I think it is a good finish. It wouldn't be my choice for a restoration project, but otherwise, I think it can make a fine finish for you.

Re: finishing a chest of drawers

From: wisshack@misslink.net
Date: 12/31/98
Time: 8:23:10 PM
Remote Name: 205.243.59.103
Comments

Insides of drawers that were not finished originally should never have any kind of finish applied to the. The dry, matrure appearance of the linings of truly old drawers and other carcass work is a valuable sign of age. If you apply finish to previously unfinished areas of antique furniture you are glorifying it and tampering with its value. If you had an 18th century Queen Anne walnut English chest with original oak- lining to the drawers, you could actually ruin its value by applying finish. I suggest you be careful about the advise you give others. Tom Wisshack Museum Quality Restoration of Antique Furniture Galesburg IL 61401

filling the grain

From: Carole
Date: 11/30/98
Time: 11:35:17 PM
Remote Name: 209.142.38.141
Comments

What is the most efficient way to fill the grain in mahogany or walnut? I am familiar with paste wood filler but would like to find another method. The finish will be sprayed lacquer.

Re: filling the grain

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/1/98
Time: 4:45:22 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.98
Comments

M. L. Campbel makes a catalyzed clear filler which can be sprayed. You can also get a paste filler that can be sprayed or make your own by thinning regular paste filler to spray consistency.

Re: filling the grain

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/7/98
Time: 5:57:11 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.63
Comments

ML Cambells marketing of this stuff as a filler is incorrect. It is merely a sanding sealer for AC lacquers. They replaced the normal stearates with talc. It WILL NOT fill the pores without shrinking in a couple of months

The most efficient and time honored method IMHO is oil paste wood filler -- forget the Behlen stuff and get ML Campbells -- you'll have to thin it and its only available in neutral but it can be topcoated in 4 - 8 hours. Highly recommended.

Jeff Jewitt

Brass Screws and Tarnish...

From: Larry
Date: 12/2/98
Time: 2:54:52 PM
Remote Name: 156.46.96.113
Comments

I recently began refinishing an old tool chest my grandfather made in 1910. It's going to be a beautiful piece. Problem: There are over 200 round head brass screws on this thing. Most are salvageable, and will be reused. They are black with tarnish, but clean up easily once they are removed. However, I am afraid that they will retarnish in a short period of time... Any suggestions for coating the screw heads with something that will not let them tarnish? Thanks!!

Re: Brass Screws and Tarnish...

From: James
Date: 12/2/98
Time: 11:00:53 PM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.15
Comments

Lacquer is what I use. The hardware stores carry it. If you only find it in a spray can just spray a little into a bottle cap and use a small brush to apply the lacquer

HINGES

From: daffyaduck@webtv.net
Date: 12/1/98
Time: 9:41:02 PM
Remote Name: 209.240.200.45
Comments

I am in the process of refinishing a large pine ice box with double doors. I only have one set of brass hinges I need another set or where I can purchase 2 sets . daffyaduck@webtv.net thank you

Re: HINGES

From: Jame
Date: 12/2/98
Time: 11:06:31 PM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.15
Comments

This company sales ice box hardware. http://www.kennedyhardware.com/

Re: HINGES

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/7/98
Time: 5:59:32 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.63
Comments

Obviously -- these aren't hardware store type items. Try Van Dyke Restoreres 800-558-1234

Jeff

Haywood - Wakefield furniture

From: lmaclay@bellatlantic.net
Date: 12/5/98
Time: 9:25:05 PM
Remote Name: 151.196.127.13
Comments

I have a table and loveseat that originally had a light blond finish. The table has a stamp on the bottom from Haywood-Wakefield. Both have been refinished. I would like to get more information on this company and see if these pieces are of any value after being refinished.

Thank you

Re: Haywood - Wakefield furniture

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/6/98
Time: 10:29:34 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.92
Comments

These pieces are from the 40's or 50's and I doubt ther are collectible pieces. However, only a professional appraiser could tell you for sure. Normally pieces like this have to be very collectible to suffer devaluation from refinishing. Jeff

Re: Haywood - Wakefield furniture

From: Frank
Date: 1/24/99
Time: 10:35:56 AM
Remote Name: 205.231.148.21
Comments

Heywood-Wakefield furniture IS collectible. There is a book out with many good pics, very interesting history of the company and price guide. Pub. by Collector Books, P>O> Box 3009, Padukah, KY 42002-3009, authors Steve Rouland & Roger Rouland. There is even some info on the blonde and "champagne" finish techniques they are known for. The stain should have been duplicated well for the refinishing to be good. Values exceed used furniture of the same period but some of the more unusual and sought after pieces can be expensive. There are dealers that carry this and can guide you further on prices and rarity. Check with any modern (30's-60's) collectible furniture dealer for references.

Atwater-Kent Radio Restoration

From: John Weiss
Date: 12/2/98
Time: 4:25:50 PM
Remote Name: 199.228.142.7
Comments

I'm restoring a 1928 Atwater-Kent console radio. It has several deep scratches down to the wood and mares to the finish. I do not want to refinish because much of it is glazed for accenting. I think the finish is dark-tinted varnish, but not sure. How can I best restore the existing finish?

Re: Atwater-Kent Radio Restoration

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/6/98
Time: 10:32:58 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.92
Comments

Without stripping, your best bet is to use an artists brush and shellac with dry pigments to replace the color then use shellac to fill the scratches. If the scratches are deep - try using pigmented wax sticks the color of the wood to fill them.

Jeff

Refinishing mahogony countertops

From: Mark J. Herold
Date: 12/2/98
Time: 11:03:39 AM
Remote Name: 205.180.135.66
Comments

I am refinishing mahogony countertops in a kitchen. Any hints on products to use. What steps should I taken. Are poly products safe for food contact?

Re: Refinishing mahogony countertops

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/7/98
Time: 6:01:46 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.63
Comments

Any finish --once cured can be considered safe for food contact and the poly will give you the most durability. However - it will not stand up to slicing, chopping, etc. Its best to use a simple mineral or vegetable oil or like me -- nothing at all

Jeff

Re: Refinishing mahogony countertops

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/8/98
Time: 8:38:16 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.115
Comments

Do not put vegetable oil on counter tops or cutting board. It can spoil and contaminate food. If you are going to oil tops use only mineral oil. I think it would be best to seal counters with a varnish. Any coating you put on them will have to be periodically renewed and poly's must be stripped. Varnish can be lightly sanded and recoated when it needs it.

Pine Bedroom Furniture

From: Penny
Date: 12/9/98
Time: 12:13:06 PM
Remote Name: 207.207.2.15
Comments

Can paint be applied directly to a finished wood? I have a pine bedroom suite which has lots of curves, etc. and do not have the time to strip and refinish.

Re: Pine Bedroom Furniture

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/9/98
Time: 3:23:46 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.37
Comments

You can-- as long as the finish is clean and scuff sanded to aid adhesion. Clean the finish really well with TSP. Then sand it with 180. Then apply a barrier coat of white pigmented shellac, known as Kilz of Bin. Then on with your paint

Jeff

walnut rocker

From: Garry
Date: 12/14/98
Time: 8:46:10 PM

Remote Name: 206.153.79.122
Comments

I am trying to match a replacement rung of walnut to look like the rest of the rocker which is a butterscotch color?

Re: walnut rocker

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 4:29:30 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.46
Comments

Assuming the new replacement is the greyish color typical ofr kiln dried walnut, I use a caramel colored dye stain followed by several coats of orange shellac

Jeff

BAR TOP SEPERATION IN CAVIUNA WOOD STRIPS

From: WALLACE BERG
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 8:22:28 PM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.30
Comments

LACK OF HUMIDITY IN NEW BUILDING HAS CAUSED BAR TOP SEPERATION IN CAVIUNA WOOD STRIPS. (3/4 X 3/4 RANDOM LENGTH TO 6 FT)STRIPS GLUED 3 SIDES WITH 3/4 PW AS BASE. SURFACE WAS FINISHED WITH 8 COATS WATER BASED POLY. QUESTION: WHAT TO DO ABOUT REPAIRS TO CRACKS??

Re: BAR TOP SEPERATION IN CAVIUNA WOOD STRIPS

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 10:47:03 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.78
Comments

Your problem is more serious than you think. You have a situation where you have glued pieces of solid wood (whose shrinkage/expansion ratio is probably high glued to a stable (non-moving) base. This is similar to a cross-grain construction. Even though you repair the damage, you will no doubt see more problems later.

Jeff

barn wood

From: anjo
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 9:51:08 PM
Remote Name: 165.117.55.22
Comments

what can I use other than acid to change the patina of fresh cuts in old barn wood to match the uncut portion of the wood

Re: barnwood

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 10:43:13 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.78
Comments

I've heard good results reported from users of a product called Old Growth. Its avialable thru Woodcraft @ 800-225-1153

Jeff

Leather restoration

From: Norm
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 8:54:38 AM
Remote Name: 206.168.235.42
Comments

I have a table with a leather top that needs restoring or replacing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Norm norm@cqg.com

Re: Leather restoration

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 9:15:55 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.76
Comments

Replacement leather is available from Richmond Desk Leather 9411 Derbyshire Rd.,Richmond Va.23229 Phone: 804.741.1680. You don't say what is wrong with exusting leather minor damage can be dyed to match and coated with lacuer and polished to match existing sheen. It's not perfect but will greatly improve looks.

mildew

From: ace
Date: 12/16/98
Time: 7:54:22 AM
Remote Name: 209.240.200.25
Comments

How do I get mildew and the odor off furniture?

Re: mildew

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/16/98
Time: 8:18:37 AM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.107
Comments

Use a 50/50 solution of water and household bleach. wipe it on pay attention to the corners and close places do the insides and under tops too. Rinse w/ clear water and dry. You may have to do this more than once to kill all the mildew.

finishing a chest of drawers

From: Oliver Hager
Date: 11/29/98
Time: 10:07:50 PM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.11
Comments

When finishing a chest of drawers, if one puts clear finsih on the top and outsides, do you apply on the bottom sides where one one touch only if you picked it up tp move. Also how much of the inside beneath & behind the drawers is it necessary to finish. I plan to use Miniwax fast drying Polyurethane, clear Semi-gloss.

Thankyou for your answer. Oliver Hager

Re: finishing a chest of drawers

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 11/30/98
Time: 5:07:36 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.84
Comments

What kind of chest of drawers is it? If it is an antique please do not put poly on it. You will ruin value of piece and make it very difficult if not impossible to reverse. Insides of casework are not normally finished, but insides of drawers should be.

Re: finishing a chest of drawers

From: Dave Macfee
Date: 12/8/98
Time: 8:48:07 AM
Remote Name: 32.100.28.144
Comments

I think its important for a finish to "wrap around" the edges in appropriate wear areas, such as at the base of the piece, underneath edge of the top, dividing stiles between drawers on the case. If you finish only to the showing edges, the finish will have more tendency to peel from that edge. Where an edge is subjected to any wear or abuse, this is a strong likelihood. I agree with Jim's comments on finishing inside case work. I like to finish drawer interiors too, but I see a lot of them that aren't. I've used the Minwax poly and I think it is a good finish. It wouldn't be my choice for a restoration project, but otherwise, I think it can make a fine finish for you.

Re: finishing a chest of drawers

From: wisshack@misslink.net
Date: 12/31/98
Time: 8:23:10 PM
Remote Name: 205.243.59.103
Comments

Insides of drawers that were not finished originally should never have any kind of finish applied to the. The dry, matrure appearance of the linings of truly old drawers and other carcass work is a valuable sign of age. If you apply finish to previously unfinished areas of antique furniture you are glorifying it and tampering with its value. If you had an 18th century Queen Anne walnut English chest with original oak- lining to the drawers, you could actually ruin its value by applying finish. I suggest you be careful about the advise you give others. Tom Wisshack Museum Quality Restoration of Antique Furniture Galesburg IL 61401

filling the grain

From: Carole
Date: 11/30/98
Time: 11:35:17 PM
Remote Name: 209.142.38.141
Comments

What is the most efficient way to fill the grain in mahogany or walnut? I am familiar with paste wood filler but would like to find another method. The finish will be sprayed lacquer.

Re: filling the grain

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/1/98
Time: 4:45:22 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.98
Comments

M. L. Campbel makes a catalyzed clear filler which can be sprayed. You can also get a paste filler that can be sprayed or make your own by thinning regular paste filler to spray consistency.

Re: filling the grain

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/7/98
Time: 5:57:11 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.63
Comments

ML Cambells marketing of this stuff as a filler is incorrect. It is merely a sanding sealer for AC lacquers. They replaced the normal stearates with talc. It WILL NOT fill the pores without shrinking in a couple of months

The most efficient and time honored method IMHO is oil paste wood filler -- forget the Behlen stuff and get ML Campbells -- you'll have to thin it and its only available in neutral but it can be topcoated in 4 - 8 hours. Highly recommended.

Jeff Jewitt

Brass Screws and Tarnish...

From: Larry
Date: 12/2/98
Time: 2:54:52 PM
Remote Name: 156.46.96.113
Comments

I recently began refinishing an old tool chest my grandfather made in 1910. It's going to be a beautiful piece. Problem: There are over 200 round head brass screws on this thing. Most are salvageable, and will be reused. They are black with tarnish, but clean up easily once they are removed. However, I am afraid that they will retarnish in a short period of time... Any suggestions for coating the screw heads with something that will not let them tarnish? Thanks!!

Re: Brass Screws and Tarnish...

From: James
Date: 12/2/98
Time: 11:00:53 PM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.15
Comments

Lacquer is what I use. The hardware stores carry it. If you only find it in a spray can just spray a little into a bottle cap and use a small brush to apply the lacquer

HINGES

From: daffyaduck@webtv.net
Date: 12/1/98
Time: 9:41:02 PM
Remote Name: 209.240.200.45
Comments

I am in the process of refinishing a large pine ice box with double doors. I only have one set of brass hinges I need another set or where I can purchase 2 sets . daffyaduck@webtv.net thank you

Re: HINGES

From: Jame
Date: 12/2/98
Time: 11:06:31 PM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.15
Comments

This company sales ice box hardware. http://www.kennedyhardware.com/

Re: HINGES

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/7/98
Time: 5:59:32 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.63
Comments

Obviously -- these aren't hardware store type items. Try Van Dyke Restoreres 800-558-1234

Jeff

Haywood - Wakefield furniture

From: lmaclay@bellatlantic.net
Date: 12/5/98
Time: 9:25:05 PM
Remote Name: 151.196.127.13
Comments

I have a table and loveseat that originally had a light blond finish. The table has a stamp on the bottom from Haywood-Wakefield. Both have been refinished. I would like to get more information on this company and see if these pieces are of any value after being refinished.

Thank you

Re: Haywood - Wakefield furniture

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/6/98
Time: 10:29:34 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.92
Comments

These pieces are from the 40's or 50's and I doubt ther are collectible pieces. However, only a professional appraiser could tell you for sure. Normally pieces like this have to be very collectible to suffer devaluation from refinishing. Jeff

Re: Haywood - Wakefield furniture

From: Frank
Date: 1/24/99
Time: 10:35:56 AM
Remote Name: 205.231.148.21
Comments

Heywood-Wakefield furniture IS collectible. There is a book out with many good pics, very interesting history of the company and price guide. Pub. by Collector Books, P>O> Box 3009, Padukah, KY 42002-3009, authors Steve Rouland & Roger Rouland. There is even some info on the blonde and "champagne" finish techniques they are known for. The stain should have been duplicated well for the refinishing to be good. Values exceed used furniture of the same period but some of the more unusual and sought after pieces can be expensive. There are dealers that carry this and can guide you further on prices and rarity. Check with any modern (30's-60's) collectible furniture dealer for references.

Atwater-Kent Radio Restoration

From: John Weiss
Date: 12/2/98
Time: 4:25:50 PM
Remote Name: 199.228.142.7
Comments

I'm restoring a 1928 Atwater-Kent console radio. It has several deep scratches down to the wood and mares to the finish. I do not want to refinish because much of it is glazed for accenting. I think the finish is dark-tinted varnish, but not sure. How can I best restore the existing finish?

Re: Atwater-Kent Radio Restoration

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/6/98
Time: 10:32:58 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.92
Comments

Without stripping, your best bet is to use an artists brush and shellac with dry pigments to replace the color then use shellac to fill the scratches. If the scratches are deep - try using pigmented wax sticks the color of the wood to fill them.

Jeff

Refinishing mahogony countertops

From: Mark J. Herold
Date: 12/2/98
Time: 11:03:39 AM
Remote Name: 205.180.135.66
Comments

I am refinishing mahogony countertops in a kitchen. Any hints on products to use. What steps should I taken. Are poly products safe for food contact?

Re: Refinishing mahogony countertops

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/7/98
Time: 6:01:46 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.63
Comments

Any finish --once cured can be considered safe for food contact and the poly will give you the most durability. However - it will not stand up to slicing, chopping, etc. Its best to use a simple mineral or vegetable oil or like me -- nothing at all

Jeff

Re: Refinishing mahogony countertops

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/8/98
Time: 8:38:16 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.115
Comments

Do not put vegetable oil on counter tops or cutting board. It can spoil and contaminate food. If you are going to oil tops use only mineral oil. I think it would be best to seal counters with a varnish. Any coating you put on them will have to be periodically renewed and poly's must be stripped. Varnish can be lightly sanded and recoated when it needs it.

Pine Bedroom Furniture

From: Penny
Date: 12/9/98
Time: 12:13:06 PM
Remote Name: 207.207.2.15
Comments

Can paint be applied directly to a finished wood? I have a pine bedroom suite which has lots of curves, etc. and do not have the time to strip and refinish.

Re: Pine Bedroom Furniture

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/9/98
Time: 3:23:46 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.37
Comments

You can-- as long as the finish is clean and scuff sanded to aid adhesion. Clean the finish really well with TSP. Then sand it with 180. Then apply a barrier coat of white pigmented shellac, known as Kilz of Bin. Then on with your paint

Jeff

walnut rocker

From: Garry
Date: 12/14/98
Time: 8:46:10 PM

Remote Name: 206.153.79.122
Comments

I am trying to match a replacement rung of walnut to look like the rest of the rocker which is a butterscotch color?

Re: walnut rocker

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 4:29:30 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.46
Comments

Assuming the new replacement is the greyish color typical ofr kiln dried walnut, I use a caramel colored dye stain followed by several coats of orange shellac

Jeff

BAR TOP SEPERATION IN CAVIUNA WOOD STRIPS

From: WALLACE BERG
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 8:22:28 PM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.30
Comments

LACK OF HUMIDITY IN NEW BUILDING HAS CAUSED BAR TOP SEPERATION IN CAVIUNA WOOD STRIPS. (3/4 X 3/4 RANDOM LENGTH TO 6 FT)STRIPS GLUED 3 SIDES WITH 3/4 PW AS BASE. SURFACE WAS FINISHED WITH 8 COATS WATER BASED POLY. QUESTION: WHAT TO DO ABOUT REPAIRS TO CRACKS??

Re: BAR TOP SEPERATION IN CAVIUNA WOOD STRIPS

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 10:47:03 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.78
Comments

Your problem is more serious than you think. You have a situation where you have glued pieces of solid wood (whose shrinkage/expansion ratio is probably high glued to a stable (non-moving) base. This is similar to a cross-grain construction. Even though you repair the damage, you will no doubt see more problems later.

Jeff

barn wood

From: anjo
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 9:51:08 PM
Remote Name: 165.117.55.22
Comments

what can I use other than acid to change the patina of fresh cuts in old barn wood to match the uncut portion of the wood

Re: barnwood

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 10:43:13 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.78
Comments

I've heard good results reported from users of a product called Old Growth. Its avialable thru Woodcraft @ 800-225-1153

Jeff

Leather restoration

From: Norm
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 8:54:38 AM
Remote Name: 206.168.235.42
Comments

I have a table with a leather top that needs restoring or replacing. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Norm norm@cqg.com

Re: Leather restoration

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/15/98
Time: 9:15:55 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.76
Comments

Replacement leather is available from Richmond Desk Leather 9411 Derbyshire Rd.,Richmond Va.23229 Phone: 804.741.1680. You don't say what is wrong with exusting leather minor damage can be dyed to match and coated with lacuer and polished to match existing sheen. It's not perfect but will greatly improve looks.

mildew

From: ace
Date: 12/16/98
Time: 7:54:22 AM
Remote Name: 209.240.200.25
Comments

How do I get mildew and the odor off furniture?

Re: mildew

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/16/98
Time: 8:18:37 AM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.107
Comments

Use a 50/50 solution of water and household bleach. wipe it on pay attention to the corners and close places do the insides and under tops too. Rinse w/ clear water and dry. You may have to do this more than once to kill all the mildew.

Restoring 2 Pieces

From: Mickey
Date: 12/1/98
Time: 5:34:46 AM
Remote Name: 206.196.59.9
Comments

I recently purchased two pieces. The pine hutch has had a combination of burning and stripping to remove the old paint. What is the best method to complete the job and finish the wood?

The second piece is a chest with red paint on the sides, back and top, but dark brown paint on the front. How should I clean up the front - I can't tell whether there is red paint on the front at this point. The original brass hardware is intact. Maybe I should clean it (how?) and leave it. The piece appears to be mid-1800's so I would like to preserve as much as possible. Thanks.

Re: Restoring 2 Pieces

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/7/98
Time: 6:05:16 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.63
Comments

If you go to the articles section - read the article on Saving the Finish for a tutorial on how to clean furniture.

As for the burned and partially stripped wood, it depends on what you're going to do. I'd strip the rest of the paint off with a marine stripper or stripper labelled for paint. Then I'd decide if the piece is worth spending all the time it will take to sand past the burned areas (alot!!)

You may want to just re-paint it

Jeff

Double-leaf Dining room table slides

From: cmciii@aol.com
Date: 12/17/98
Time: 3:11:33 PM
Remote Name: 152.163.207.82
Comments

I have a double-leaf Dining room table that has wooden slides that are worn out. When you open it all the way it bends in the middle.

Is there a place where I might be able to order a generic set of either wood or metal slides to repair this table

Re: Double-leaf Dining room table slides

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/17/98
Time: 5:54:43 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.96
Comments

WSI Disttributors 800.447.9974 lists two sizes one will take 3 12inch leaves and the other will take 5.

Antique oak mantel/overmantel

From: plarsen@www.vermillion.k12.sd.us
Date: 12/18/98
Time: 12:03:33 PM
Remote Name: 207.109.111.61
Comments

I have an antique oak fireplace mantel with mirrorered overmantel. It is in basically good shape, however there are a few scratches on the lower part and the shelf part of the mantel is down to pretty much bare wood (looks like it could have had some other material on it that was removed). What is the best way to restore this piece. I hate to have to strip the whole thing - I was really wanting to do something a little gentler. I am pretty much a novice, have done some refinishing but not alot. I love this piece and don't want to ruin it. Any suggestions?

Re: Antique oak mantel/overmantel

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/18/98
Time: 9:14:45 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.114
Comments

If you access the articles part of this website - you will find an article called "saving The Finish". You will find all sorts or info for The project at hand.

Jeff

Re: Antique oak mantel/overmantel

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/19/98
Time: 5:32:50 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.104
Comments

You say "looks something could have been removed" It may have been veneered originally look carefully at the bottom af the shelf and see if there is a thin line/joint running the length of the shelf it should be less than 1/8th inch thick. Many mantles were veneered. If it has been removed it should be replaced to prevent warping. The original finish is most likely varnish and can be replaced by cleaning thoroughly and scuff sanding any remaining finish taking care to feather any chips then recoat with 2 or 3 coats of top grade varnish

Re: Antique oak mantel/overmantel

From: plarsen
Date: 1/26/99
Time: 11:46:58 AM
Remote Name: 207.109.111.36
Comments

Thanks for your help re: the mantel. I checked and there is no line indicating possibility of veneer so I think I am safe there. I have a couple of other questions...

You say clean thoroughly - what product do you recommend for that? Also, what should I do with the parts that are close to bare wood? Clean and try to match stain and then varnish? I don't want to sand, right? (since that will potentially damage the patina of the wood?) Any reply would be appreciated.

Stickley library table

From: Harold Sweeny
Date: 12/18/98
Time: 10:26:21 PM
Remote Name: 208.133.29.42
Comments

During renovation of our church a G. Stickley library was found in storage with "Heavy" boxes stored on top. top is bowd about 5/8" to 3/4". rear bard is mising. No problem to replace it. Finish is scarred & scratched. Should it be stripped or scraped after the bow is removed? How can I match the original finish? I have the formulas but the older terms are not easy to update. Thanks HS , retired boatwright

Re: Stickley library table

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/19/98
Time: 5:17:55 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.104
Comments

Please do not touch finish on table you could devalue it by as much as 90% Find a good restorer in your area and get their advice, if they advise stripping they are not a good restorer. Keep looking until you find someone who is willing to restore the original finish. Any repairs to the table should be documented.

Re: Stickley library table

From: Harold Sweeny
Date: 12/19/98
Time: 10:29:34 PM
Remote Name: 208.133.29.73
Comments

Thanks Jim. The main concern is undoing the bow in the top. The missing board may/may not be replaced. It can be cleaned of dirt & dust with a damp cloth. There is no intention of destroying it's value, instead it will be placed in the Church library & used by the Library staff for displayiny recent acquisitions.

Re: Stickley library table

From: Jim Antique Works jac111@new-vista1.com
Date: 12/20/98
Time: 9:41:37 AM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.88
Comments

Harold removing bow from table top may or may not be an easy job. If the table is bowed from load the wood cells will be compressed and may never recover. If it is moisture imbalance putting table upside dow in strong sunlite may cure it. Good luck.

Where to find drop leaf table hinges?

From: Ed Wood
Date: 12/19/98
Time: 11:42:34 AM
Remote Name: 208.254.186.50
Comments

I have a circa 1830 drop leaf table, restored but for the hinges. The original were hidden. Where can I find replacements?

Re: Where to find drop leaf table hinges?

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/19/98
Time: 5:23:26 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.104
Comments

WSI Distributors 800.447.9974 lists them in their catalogue. They are open m-f 8:30-5:00 central time

Marquetry supplys

From: Michael Thompson
Date: 12/21/98
Time: 5:17:27 PM
Remote Name: 206.160.255.194
Comments

Need to know a good source of marquetry supplys - other than Van Dykes.

Re: Marquetry supplys

From: James
Date: 12/22/98
Time: 6:40:20 PM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.43
Comments

Constantine 1-800-223-8087

Wedgewood Gas Stove

From: adeptmed@aol.com
Date: 12/23/98
Time: 1:32:14 PM
Remote Name: 205.188.192.156
Comments

Would like to find a company to restore my wedgewood gas/wood stove

Re: Wedgewood Gas Stove

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/23/98
Time: 4:39:16 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.119
Comments

There is one in Oakland Ca. I don't remember name but they are in the phone book if they are still in business.

Re: Wedgewood Gas Stove

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/25/98
Time: 2:23:40 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.115
Comments

Go web page <antiquestoves.com> They offer listings for many items on ant. stoves. Merry Christmas

Veneer

From: Keri
Date: 12/21/98
Time: 2:03:12 PM
Remote Name: 209.154.70.54
Comments

I am currently restoring an antique hutch that is covered in veneer. The veneer had cracked in one spot. I applied a hot iron to a wet towel on the blemished portion of the piece. The problem is that the iron has turned the already stripped and sanded veneer a darker color. Is this problem fixable?

Re: Veneer

From: Jeff Jewitt
Date: 12/24/98
Time: 8:54:39 AM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.41
Comments

It sounds like a tannate stain. Try wiping a solution of oxalic acid crystals dissolved in water over the stain (do the whole area) wait overnight and the stain should be gone

Jeff

Refinishing Mahogany dining set

From: Kathy West
Date: 12/28/98
Time: 7:32:32 AM
Remote Name: 153.37.199.249
Comments

I have an antique mahogany dining set that needs refinishing. Someone told me it was not possible to just sand and refinish it, as the wood needs to be treated. I think what I need to do is apply a french polish prior to applying any varnish. Is this true? Please send some advice on the best thing to do to make this project successful. Thank you.

Refinishing Mahogany dining set

From: Kathy West
Date: 12/28/98
Time: 7:32:37 AM
Remote Name: 153.37.199.249
Comments

I have an antique mahogany dining set that needs refinishing. Someone told me it was not possible to just sand and refinish it, as the wood needs to be treated. I think what I need to do is apply a french polish prior to applying any varnish. Is this true? Please send some advice on the best thing to do to make this project successful. Thank you.

Re: Refinishing Mahogany dining set

From: James
Date: 12/28/98
Time: 7:37:40 AM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.6
Comments

How old is the mahogany dining set? What kind of usage does it get? I mean do have six playing dominoes on it often?

Re: Refinishing Mahogany dining set

From: Rick Bertrand
Date: 12/31/98
Time: 7:35:32 PM
Remote Name: 207.43.192.104
Comments

Get some paint and varnish remover from your local hardware or walmart store. follow the directions on the can for removing the finish. after the finish has been removed wash the surface using acetone or lacquer thinner. then sand the surface smooth using 220 grit sandpaper, remove all sanding dust with a paint brush and vacuum cleaner. then apply a coat of stain if you choose to, let dry 24 hours and apply a polyurethane or lacquer. follow the directions on all containers.

hinges for a large antique ice box

From: daffyaduck@webtv.net
Date: 12/27/98
Time: 5:54:07 PM
Remote Name: 209.240.200.75
Comments

I am looking for hinges for a ice box. the hinges are 5 to 6 inches in length, they are offset a half inche. the hinge comes to a point at one end and at the other it curls like a W. The end with the point attaches to the door and the W end anchors the the piece. 6 screws 3 at each end to fasten the hinge to the door and the piece. where can I get something close in style and size. please help. I have had no luck anyware.

Re: hinges for a large antique ice box

From: james
Date: 12/27/98
Time: 8:35:05 PM
Remote Name: 208.214.178.45
Comments

Here is a few place that sell antique ice box hardware.

http://www.kennedyhardware.com/
http://www.lumarmall.com/thors/chests/chests.htm
http://www.vintagehardware.com
Muff's Restoration Hardware 997-0243 11am-5pm Tu-Sat 135 S. Glassell St., Orange, California, 92866-1421

Cedar chest repair

From: ijusth@aol.com
Date: 12/22/98
Time: 2:29:33 PM
Remote Name: 167.167.156.186
Comments

I have a cedar chest at least 80 years old. It has varnsih that is flaking off and some that almost looks like is was slightly charred (black and 'bubbled'). Additionally the wood veneer is lifting. I want to repair the piece. What varnish remover should I use and more importantly how do I reattach the veneer?

Re: Cedar chest repair

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/24/98
Time: 4:56:44 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.103
Comments

Chances are the veneer on your cedar chest was put on with hide cement and sometimes can be reattached by ironing w/ a hot iron. If not get some liquid hide glue and spread evenly on back of veneer and clamp in place. Many times veneer is only loose on the edges and masking tape pulled over ;edge is all the clamp you will need. For stripper almost any of the comercial brands such as Kutzit,Savogran,etc. will remove the finish which is probably lacquer. Veneer repairs should be done first ro prevent any further damage let glue cure at least 48 hours befor stripping.

Saving old paint

From: donnamc@ix.netcom.com
Date: 12/21/98
Time: 3:39:47 PM
Remote Name: 198.211.136.85
Comments

I recently bought a corner cupboard with at least 4 different layers of paint. Naturally, the ugliest color is the last paint job. I want to remove this top layer and possibly more. How can I do that without jeopardizing other layers of paint? Thanks. (The paint may be milk paint, I really don't know what type it is.)

Removing opaque stain from finish

From: theodore.krzynowek@spwilm.zeneca.com
Date: 12/28/98
Time: 1:19:34 PM
Remote Name: 38.249.141.2
Comments

I am looking for information to see if it is possible to "lift " an opaque (cloudy) stain from a lacquer or varnish clear finish. The piece is a coffee table made and finished in Panama in the "60's". It has a very high gloss finish. The white stain may have been caused by either water or heat or possibly both. I would like to restore the finish without refinishing. Is there a method worth trying?

Re: Removing opaque stain from finish

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/28/98
Time: 1:39:48 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.89
Comments

Cloudy sreas like you are asking about are usually moisture trapped in the finish. Try rubbing the area with plain peanut butter(not the chunky kind) or mayonaise. If that doesn't work try 0000 steel wool if that doesn't do it call a refinisher in your area as the stain is probably beyond anything you can do without running the risk of making a mess.

gentlemans dresser w/hanky drawers need pieces

From: Brenda Beierschmitt @ dbri54@hotmail.com
Date: 12/28/98
Time: 9:51:27 PM
Remote Name: 209.25.121.8
Comments

needed wishbone mirror and holder, the finish is victorian walnut would like any info to help complete dresser, was greatgrand father thank you ,Brenda respond to dbri54@hotmail.com

Re: gentlemans dresser w/hanky drawers need pieces

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/29/98
Time: 8:25:25 AM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.93
Comments

Unless you can find amirror and stand in an antique shop or restorers (See listing for one in your area)you will have to have it custom made. If you will post more about condition of the rest of the dresser I will try to answer any other questions you have.

Need advice on armchair style

From: Marcelo Paciorek (Argentina)
Date: 12/29/98
Time: 9:49:49 AM
Remote Name: 200.43.19.140
Comments

I have two armchairs that I would like to restore. I need to know the style of those chairs, although it seems to be Queen Anne. I am able to send some pictures to anybody who can help me, to any place. I will very much appreciate your advice. (The armchairs have at least 50 years).

Re: Need advice on armchair style

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/29/98
Time: 6:01:12 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.121
Comments

If you will post your email address I'll tell you where to send pictures by email or snail mail whichever you prefer.

Roll Top Desk Repair

From: Craig
Date: 12/30/98
Time: 9:33:11 AM
Remote Name: 12.66.34.35
Comments

Does anyone have advice or tips on repairing a roll top? The fabric is quite old and has ripped between the slats in several places.

Thanks

Re: Roll Top Desk Repair

From: JIm Antique Works
Date: 12/30/98
Time: 5:28:55 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.106
Comments

The best procedure is to romove the oll cloth completely clean the slats and glue them to new cloth. Duck makes a good substitute for the original any good fabric store should have it.

Re: Roll Top Desk Repair

From: Jeff
Date: 12/31/98
Time: 4:42:24 PM
Remote Name: 209.57.71.59
Comments

I use a medium weight canvas - available at fabric shops I also use pre-mixed hide glue from Franklins Its a bit more flexiblle and has a long open time Make a carriage or wooden jig at a perfect right angle to hold the fabric and the slats as you glue them or you'll have problems.

Jeff

Wood odor

From: artbert@sbt.infi.net
Date: 12/30/98
Time: 2:58:43 PM
Remote Name: 206.103.201.68
Comments

I have received an old printer's chest with about twenty drawers for type. It has a sharp odor to the wood. My mother thinks the smell is from mouse urine left in the cabinet from nesting. How can I remove the odor?

Re: Wood odor

From: Jim Antique Works
Date: 12/30/98
Time: 5:38:32 PM
Remote Name: 207.238.55.106
Comments

Try Downey(sp) dryer sheets in the drawers. If that doesn't work seal inside of case and drawers with shellac. If that doesn't work get some commercial deodorant from Van Dykes Go to VanDykes.com for a catalogue.

Re: Wood odor

From: Rick Bertrand
Date: 12/31/98
Time: 7:42:53 PM
Remote Name: 207.43.192.104
Comments

Try Jim's answer first. Another old remedy that will possibly work is a few bricks of charcoal and wadded up newspaper. Just place these inside the piece for about 3 days, then replace them with new for another 3 days. You can also try baking soda.